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Have a gx 340 how do you set the throttle up to run and stay there do you tighten that nut at the end of the throttle handle

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Yes, tighten the locknut as per your preference. Most engines that I see have the nut very tight because the owners never change the speed. The horsepower rating for your engine is measured at 3600 rpm. If you constantly use your machine at max pressure and if you have a pressure gage, adjust the engine to give max pressure and thread stop screw up to leaver position. To maximise to life of your unit, adjust your machine to say 80 percent of max and try not to leave machine running with trigger off for long periods of time.

Posted on Nov 13, 2010


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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How to put throttle back together.

REQUIRED TOOLS: 10mm T-handle, 8mm T-handle, Phillips-head screwdriver, contact cleaner, 4mm Allen wrench, 10mm box-end wrench, cable lubing tool, cable lube, Pro Circuit Red Lube (or equivalent)

Start by removing the seat and fuel tank in order to gain the access needed to remove the throttle cables at the carburetor. Next, jump up to the handlebars, pull back the throttle dust cover, and loosen the two bolts that are holding the two halves of the throttle housing together. With the end of the throttle tube now exposed, pull the cable ends (balls) out of the throttle tube. The tube and grip are now free to slide off the end of the bar. Now that everything is apart and exposed, clean the inside of the two throttle housing pieces, the throttle tube, and the ends of the throttle cables with some contact cleaner. Also, clean the handlebar of any dirt and grime that may be present.
On the right side of the carburetor you'll find a single 4mm Allen bolt that secures a plastic dust cover. Remove the bolt and pop the cover off. With the cover removed, the ends of the two cables can now be accessed. Starting with the top cable, use a 10mm wrench to loosen the lock nut, and the cable end can be pulled off of the carburetor wheel. Repeat this process for the bottom cable. Next, while paying attention to the cable routing, bend back the flexible cable guides that are located on the frame near the headset, and pull the cables up and out of the bike.
It's time to lube the cables. Because of the hardened metal elbows located near where the cables go into the throttle housing, I recommend lubing the carburetor end of the cables where a cable-lubing tool can be easily fastened. Note: It's important to only use a minimal amount of cable lube. Because these are throttle cables, excess lube will eventually run its way down and into the carburetor. It won't necessarily damage anything, but it will make a mess. Be sure to lube both cables. Holding the cables together, feed them back into the bike from the same spot you pulled them out near the handlebars. Rout them back in so they are tucked up tight against the right side of the frame to keep them out of the way of the fuel tank once it's installed.
Before putting the throttle assembly back together, we recommend using Pro Circuit Red Lube or an equivalent on all of the moving throttle parts (the inside of the housing pieces and their edges, the balls of the cables and their slots in the throttle tube, etc.). Also, on the inside of the throttle tube put a small amount of cable lube so that it doesn't go on dry against the bar. Because you can put the cables on backwards at the carburetor, start your reassembbly at the handlebar. With the throttle tube on the bar so that the cable ball slots are facing down, slide the cable ends back into the tube, and rout the cables back through the tube tracks. The cables can only go back onto the throttle tube one way. Once in place, line up the two halves of the throttle housings, and get the two Phillips bolts started without tightening them completely. To prevent binding and rubbing, push the tube and housing assembly together until it bottoms out against the end of the bar. Now, back the assembly off the end of the bar 1 to 2mm so that there is proper clearance to twist freely. Now tighten the housing bolts securely.
Before heading back down to the carburetor, push the throttle tube all the way forward until it stops. This will not only show you which cable to install first at the carb, but will also give you the proper slack needed to do it. At the carburetor, one cable will now be sticking out of the cable housing farther than the other. The longer one (the one with the most slack) is the one you'll start with. It is the bottom or "pull cable. There is a 10mm nut that is thinner (not the locking nut), which slides into the groove on the carb. With the ball of the cable reinstalled on the throttle wheel, and the flat 10mm nut in its housing, tighten the 10mm locking nut to secure the cable. Next, turn the throttle tube back a little bit to take out the excess slack, which in turn will give you the slack needed to install the top or "push cable, and repeat the same process. I like to keep the gap between the 10mm locking nut and the longer 10mm adjusting nuts that are connected to the cable even between the two cables. Because most of the cable adjustment is done at the bar, you don't need a lot of gap (2-3mm) between the locking nut and the adjusting nut of each cable. Once adjusted evenly, reinstall the dust cover and tighten the 4mm Allen bolt.
If you don't have a personal preference for the amount of throttle play (movement front to back), I recommend about 2-3mm of wiggle, at most. To adjust the play, there's a finger locking nut and an adjusting nut just behind where the cables enter the throttle housing. If you want more slack (play) in your throttle, spin the adjusting nut in toward the throttle. For less slack, back it out. Because it's a push/pull style system, you have to adjust both cables evenly until you get the feel you're looking for. After you've achieved your ideal amount of play, reinstall the fuel tank and the seat. Now that everything is back together, turn your bars from side to side to make sure that the cables aren't binding anywhere, and then recheck the throttle play and adjust again if needed.

Mar 17, 2016 | Garden

1 Answer

I can't figure out how to re-attach the throttle wire to the carburetor and handle on my husqvarna 235 chainsaw

To re assemble the carb, connect the throttle wire into the r/h side of the carb, there is a small hole in the throttle spindle, thread the wire into the spindle from the out side and twist so it stays in the spindle, you must do this with the carb off the saw, now push the carb with the wire connected back onto the two studs from the cylinder, refit the black air filter box, fit and tighten the two 8mm nuts, re fit the torx 20 screw into the top of the filter box, re fit the orange plastic plate on the r/h side of the crankcase, now re fit the the back handle and spine assembly, fit the three torx screws back through the anti vib springs and into the crankcase, if not already done remove the three screws securing the l/h side rear handle half, hook the other end of the throttle rod into the trigger, refit the handle half.

Mar 21, 2013 | Husqvarna 235E - 16" 34cc Consumer Gas...

1 Answer

How do I fit a throttle grip to my 2010 fatbob fxdx. thanks.

First remove the switch cover
just under the handle bars there are two rubber covered adjustment screws, roll back the rubber covers.
mark where they are set, then loosen off both adjusters until you can unhook the ends of the cables in the handle
remove the old grip and install the new one being careful to have the cable hook-ups in the proper position
install the cable ends and replace the cover
tighten the adjusters to original settings, check to see if there is play in the throttle and if it is returning to the start position when released
make necessary fine tuning to adjusters then tighten lock nuts and replace the rubber covers

hope that helps

Aug 22, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXDX - FXDXI Dyna Super...

1 Answer

I need an exploded view of a 1994 toyota 4 X 4 hub

Removal & Installation 86827gva.gif

Exploded view of the free wheeling hub
Click to Enlarge 86827p19.gif

Turn the handle with your hand to the free position

Note the directions in which you can turn the handle: left-free, right-lock

  1. Remove the hub cover. Set the control handle to free.

With the handle in the free position, remove the six hub cover bolts

  1. Remove the cover mounting bolts, then pull off the cover. Remove and discard the gasket.

Pull the cover off

  1. Remove the bolt with washer.

Using the correct size wrench, loosen ...

... then remove the center bolt and washer

  1. Remove the mounting nuts and washers.

Next, remove the outside mounting nuts and washers

  1. Using a brass bar and hammer, tap on the bolt ends, then remove the cone washers.

Using a brass bar and hammer, tap on the bolt ends ...

... then remove the cone washers

  1. Pull off the hub body.

The free wheeling body should come off easily; be sure to discard the old gaskets

  1. Remove and discard the gasket.

To install:

  1. Place a new gasket into position on the front axle hub. Install the free wheeling hub body with the cones washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 23 ft. lbs. (31 Nm).
  2. Install the bolt with washer, tighten to 13 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).
  3. Apply multi-purpose grease to the inner hub splines.
  4. Set the control handle and clutch to the free position.
  5. Place a new gasket into position on the cover.
  6. Install the cover to the body with the follower pawl tabs aligned with the non toothed portions of the body.
  7. Tighten the cover mounting bolts to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm).shinehutt_42.gif
  8. i hope this is what you are looking for
  9. plz vote comment and reply if need more help

Jan 18, 2011 | 1994 Toyota Pickup

1 Answer


hiplady yep you might have to remove the console on the tiller which is held on by phillip screws located under the console. After you have all the screws out maybe 4 -6 screws depending on the type scooter console cover you have. Carefully remove the plastic cover and you should be able to see the throttle handle. It is held in place by a nut that tightens against a plate that the post goes through. That nut is loose or check to make sure that the plate holding the throttle handle is not loose on the tiller itself(some are held on by screws some are welded to the tiller) If you can tighten the nut between the throttle handle and the plate. Hope this helps you

Oct 11, 2010 | Pride Mobility Products Health & Beauty

3 Answers

I need to clean carburetor on 340gx honda pressure washer. How would I do this?

pour large amounts of liquid carb cleaner into the gas tank
Let it run for a couple of minutes then shut it off and let it sit for a couple of days.

Aug 16, 2010 | Honda Garden

1 Answer

I have a briggs & stratton / Powermate portable generator; there is a lever with a black plastic handle on the end of it, right next to the 'choke - run' lever which has a red plastic tip on it. ...

The engine on your generator is also used for other applications some of which require an adjustable  throttle control. On a generator the engine must turn about 3600 rpm to obtain proper output of voltage and cycles. Upon further inspection of your throttle/governor you will probably find an adjustment consisting of a screw, nut or a tab on one end of the governor spring that can be reset for proper engine speed. (tab can be bent for more or less tension on spring) To check present governor setting, use a volt meter that has frequency setting. Make sure that generator is set to about 60 hz. (3600rpm) Good luck with your generator.   

Aug 04, 2010 | Coleman Powermate Powermate 5000W...

2 Answers

Will a honda engine gx 340 11 hp engine fit

no it will not fit unless some modifications are made

Sep 13, 2009 | Garden

2 Answers

Diagram of front end for '94 F150 Ford

this is a 96 f150 suspension, 4x2, not 4x4.

Item Part Number Description 1 N806246-S56 Nut and Washer 2 5A333 Retainer 3 18124 Front Shock Absorber 4 40949 Bolt 5 N62048 Nut 6 N806496 Nut 7 18126 Lower Shock Bracket 8 805033 Bolt 9 3B404 Caster and Camber Adjuster 10 800937 Nut 11 5414 Front Spring Insulator 12 3105 Front Wheel Spindle (RH) 13 3106 Front Wheel Spindle (LH) 14 3050 Front Suspension Lower Arm Ball Joint 15 3B008 Steering Arm and Drag Link 16 800895 Nut 17 642569 Cotter Pin 18 383489 Nut 19 3006 Front Axle 20 388727 Bolt (F-150) 21 389574 Bolt (F-250, F-350) 22 606085 Bolt 23 605920 Bolt 24 3405 Radius Arm 25 34992 Nut 26 5A307 Lower Spring Seat 27 5414 Front Spring Insulator 28 18183 Front Shock Absorber Mounting Bracket 29 34992 Nut 30 5310 Front Coil Spring 31 5B315 Upper Spring Seat 32 18198 Insulator A — Tighten to 34-48 Nm
(25-35 Lb-Ft) B — Tighten to 18-23 Nm
(13-18 Lb-Ft) C — Tighten to 32-58 Nm
(23-42 Lb-Ft) D — Tighten to 60-80 Nm
(44-59 Lb-Ft) E — Tighten to 68-92 Nm
(50-67 Lb-Ft) F — Tighten to 112-152 Nm (83-112 Lb-Ft) G — Tighten to 112-152 Nm (83-112 Lb-Ft) H — Tighten to 340-460 Nm (250-339 Lb-Ft)

Jan 29, 2009 | 1994 Ford F150 Styleside Supercab

2 Answers

Plastic under flush handle stripped.

If the threads are not stripped on the nut or handle it should be fine. IMPORTANT TO KNOW!!! These are left handed threads, Meaning they tighten up the opposite way of a normal nut and bolt. If the threads are bad or damaged, you will have to purchase a new flush handle. They are not expensive at all. $2 - $10 Dollars. But first try screwing the nut on by turning it to the left instead of the right.

Dec 31, 2008 | Pegasus Technologies Two-Piece Round...

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