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GE refrigerator Model PDS22MFSBBB. There is no power to the icemaker plug. Unit has a new main circuit board.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

eagle338
  • 4889 Answers

SOURCE: Click in circuit board Light in Icemaker dim bright Warm both sides

I didnt understand what you meant by refer(refrigirator???) and IM..??

Posted on Jun 26, 2008

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: Location of GE refrigerator circuit board

The main board is located behind the unit at the lower right hand corner behind a panel that's about 8" X 12".

Posted on Oct 29, 2008

peyton32034
  • 410 Answers

SOURCE: I am looking for G.E Monogram parts.

here ya go you may be able to find it cheaper looking around on the internet as well the part number is WR55X10560

Posted on Jan 21, 2009

bobicehouse
  • 1524 Answers

SOURCE: Test to see if circuit board is okay

From Appliance Aid.com

WHY Force the Arctica to Defrost if it Don�t Want to? Don't bother using the self-diagnostics feature to force a defrost cycle. On some models � those with control knobs - which technically are not Arctica models (Arctica models have plastic liners with touch pads � Standard GE electronic models with metal liners have knobs) servicers would have to invest in parts to build a �test� control panel, complete with touch pads and digital displays, to achieve this (self-diagnostics) function. Instead, save both time and money by following this helpful Arctica Tip: If a frosted evaporator or a �frost block� is apparent, initiating a defrost cycle may not reveal anything helpful anyway. First, disconnect power and then simply check the resistance across the defrost heater and bimetal circuit at the main board located at the backside. The two associated wires at the main board are almost always BLUE and ORANGE. The heater/bimetal circuit should normally read around 30 ohms roughly. Next, check the evaporator thermister at the main board between thermister input terminals J1-4 (Blue/White) and J1-5 (Blue) to determine that its resistance is greater than 1.2k ohms but not more than 166.8k ohms depending on its ambient temperature. If thermister resistance falls within this range according to temperature (Approximately: 6k ohms at 70�F � 16.3k ohms at 32�F � 51k ohms at 0�F) and the heater/bimetal circuit is diagnosed as good, then replace the main board.

Posted on Apr 30, 2009

Chadha Saab
  • 142 Answers

SOURCE: Clicking of Ge Model PDS22SBRBRSS; serial No; DL047209

IF the below mentioned information does not help, then contact a elextrical engineer worksman who can check the circuit board as it might also cause a short cicuit.

The inside of the freezer Self-defrosting refrigerators use a circulating fan to move the air through the freezer and refrigerator compartments. This fan runs whenever the unit is cooling. The fan is located in the freezer, as follows:

  • If the freezer is on top, the fan is on the back wall, near the top or bottom, in the center of the freezer.

  • If the freezer is on the bottom, the fan is on the back wall, near the top of the freezer.

  • If the freezer is on the left, the fan is on the back wall, halfway up or near the top.

Over time, the fan may become noisy--usually making a chirping or squealing sound, though it may make a loud groaning noise instead.

To find out if the fan is causing the noise, just open the freezer door and push in any fan/light switches. If the noise is louder when the door is open, the evaporator fan motor is the cause. You can't lubricate or repair this motor. You must replace it.

The outside back of the refrigerator There are three components on the outside back of the refrigerator that may become noisy: the compressor, the condenser fan motor (if self-defrosting), or the defrost timer (if self-defrosting).

  • The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. You can see it on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. It is usually black and has black or copper-colored tubes and various colored wires attached to it. If the compressor is the device making noise, there is probably no repair that will reduce the noise. You will have to replace it--which can be quite costly.

  • If the condenser fan is making noise, there may be a build-up of lint or other debris on the fan blade. The fan is located near the back of the machine, sometimes behind a thin panel. To clean it, first unplug the refrigerator, remove the thin panel, and use a soft bristle brush to clean it. If there is no lint build-up or debris on the blade, you will have to replace the motor.

  • The defrost timer is often located at the bottom of the refrigerator, near the front and behind the kick plate. Occasionally the electric motor inside the timer may become noisy. The timer must be replaced to solve this problem.

The bottom of the refrigerator Noises detected at the bottom of the refrigerator almost always originate from the back of the refrigerator. However, sometimes the drain pan under the refrigerator will rattle. You may need to tape the pan in place to stop a rattle. Also see the “Outside back of the refrigerator.”

Posted on May 31, 2009

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    Enter the model number on one of two websites below to get parts and diagrams for your appliance:


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    The main board is located behind the unit at the lower right hand corner behind a panel that's about 8" X 12".

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    Click in circuit board Light in Icemaker dim bright Warm both sides


    I didnt understand what you meant by refer(refrigirator???) and IM..??

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