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I have a Hoover 800RL washing machine. It's noisy when spinning, like two metals grinding each other. Washing is alright, only when spinning then the metal noise appears.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

AlmostBob
  • 550 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore 90 series washing machine

there is a coupling between the gearbox and the motor, it is broken, it is easy to replace, and inexpensive
the coupler can be purchased at a local parts store
'Kenmore motor/gearbox coupler' will get it for you, there is only on for all the models.
it is an easy fix

  • unplug washer
  • remove trim ends of control panel
  • remove phillips head screws from bottoms of control panel under where trim was
  • slide control panel forweard & up about 1 inch, then flip over the back of the control panel, do not dislodge the air hose
  • remove brass clips in rear corners of top with screwdriver, remember how they fit
  • unplug lid switch connector
  • lift body 1inch and slide forward to remove
  1. front center is the motor pump and gearbox
  2. do NOT disconnect hoses
  • remove spring clips holding pump on to motor shaft, note where they go for reinstall. there may be a lock screw in the top right clip.
  • swing pump to the left and use a string or bread bag tie to hold it out of the way.
  • remove spring clips holding motor to gearbox shaft, note where they go for reinstall. there may be a lock screw in the top right clip.
  • heave motor forward, to separate the coupling
  • remove coupling halves from gearbox shaft and motor shaft and discard.
  • using a wooden dowel and hammer, on the center of the new coupling halves, drive them onto the motor and gearbox shafts, (dont hit the fingers, they break, note the new couplings have metal centres to solve ongoing problems.)
  • rotate gearbox coupling, 1 up 2 down
  • rotate motor coupling, 2 up 1 down
  • install rubber shock pad on gearbox coupling
  • install motor on shock pad
  • reinstall spring clips and lock screw if fitted (bottom first, rock the motor on rubber shock mount to ease spring clip installation)
  • rotate motor shaft to align with pump input
  • install pump on motor shaft
  • install spring clips and lock screw if fitted
reinstall body in reverse order

it takes less time to do the repair than it takes to type this

Posted on Sep 06, 2008

SearsTechToo
  • 261 Answers

SOURCE: noisy washing machine

Looks like the gear case is going out on these and possibly the pump for Lucinda61

Posted on Oct 04, 2008

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: 2320l hoover washing machine wont spin fast to dain all water ...on any program ...all other things ok ...can hear grinding noise when washing ..dont use machine at moment ..like metal rubbing:)

If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

  • If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.

  • If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

  • The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

  • The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.

  • A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)

  • The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

  • The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.

  • The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.

  • The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

Posted on May 23, 2009

  • 31 Answers

SOURCE: hoover performa 1200 bangs when spinning.

it sounds like you spider as broke you will need a new drum as they are not bolted on

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: Washer makes loud metalic clicking/grinding sound

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.15942401

There are a few places to check in the washer.

1. The Clutch

2. The Brake system

3. The splines on the agitate shaft and / or agitator

4. The agitate cam and / or gear in the transmission.

Please see the following :

ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Following is the Whirlpool / Kenmore operations and maintenance manual describing how the washer works and in particular how the neutral drain assembly works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

You'll be able to see on the Sears site, the internal construction of the transmission. The Agitate Cams and Neutral Drain assembly cogs are plastic and can wear / break over time.

When ours had a major noise / grinding problem when spinning, we tracked the problem to the agitate cams not lifting the agitate gear high enough (less than 1/16" above the gear on the agitate shaft. Replacing it cost less that $15 vs. $170 for a transmission.

If the Drive Brake, Clutch, agitator splines and agitator shaft seem OK, the problem points to the transmission.

If it appears to be the agitate cams, following is a description of how we replaced them.

Assuming that you know how to remove the cabinet, agitator (you don't need to remove the tub), pump, motor and transmission the agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

I had the same problem with gear grinding and this solved it.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (16 oz.) of 80-90 weight oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Posted on Oct 07, 2009

Testimonial: "Thanks for a very thorough response. One thing that I don't understand is how to release the console so it tilts back. There are no visible screws."

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Let me know how you get on and good look!

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