Neither compressor or fan will come on. Breaker not tripped but fuse on circuit board blown. Replaced fuse and it tripped the breaker and blew the new fuse when power was restored.Tried the furnace and it will not work either. Everything worked the week before. Trailer was not moved but there was a thunderstorm during the week when we were not there.Can an RV dealer check the circuit board or do I have to replace it as a process of elimination? I do not know if this is the problem please help.
Assuming you have central air (controlled by a wall thermostat), chances are the control unit in the A/C was hit by the thunderstorm. These are fairly common to be ruined by power fluctuations and bad weather as is the control unit in the refrigerator. The controls unit "runs" both the cooling and heating. If you ever notice right before your furnace turns on, there is a clicking noise in the A/C. Thats the control unit. It tells what "system" to turn on They are not cheap. They are about $150-200. The best thing you can do is unplug your unit when not in use. I have replaced TONS of control boards, etc. because people leave their unit plugged in and they have been hit by bad weather. Good luck and happy camping.
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If it trips the circuit breaker as soon as you turn the FAN on, suspect either a bad fan motor or a failed fan motor start capacitor. If you are able to turn the fan on but the circuit breaker trips as soon as the COMPRESSOR starts, it is possible that the compressor is seized. If, on the other hand, the unit is tripping a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) breaker or GFCI utility outlet, it is possible that neutral and hot are reversed at the outlet into which the trailer is plugged (happened to me this year at an RV park).
Due to short circuit or burnt wiring in air conditioning. It may happens due to high voltage or undersized wiring. When fan motor or compressor grounded, then it will trip the breaker or blow the fuse.Fuse wires should be 3 times amps of actual running amps.Breaker should be same. If your a/c model current is 8.3 amps, breaker/fuse should be 25 amps.
You most likely have a small 3 or 5 amp fuse on the circuit board on the indoor unit that has blown. You should turn the power off at the main breaker panel and open the cover and very carefully look for a small blown fuse. It will look like one that you use in your car. Then if it is blown, replace it with the exact same size and rating.
Sounds like you need a new contactor in the condenser. The low voltage is grounded. Remove the low voltage (likely 2 wires) at the condenser and wire nut the wires leading inside. With an insulated screwdriver manually push in the contactor and be sure both compressor and fan run. Then replace fuse and turn power on to air handler with a call for cooling. Obviously the outdoor unit won't run because you unhooked the low voltage but if fuse doesn't trip then it's likely the contactor. Good Luck
Here's a link to a service manual, with step by step tests to determine whats wrong. I'm thinking compressor shot, but this should confirm, and or help you determine for yourself. Be careful with those capacitors eh !! Read warning in service manual.
A circuit breaker 'tripping' everytime the AC unit kicks on 'most always' indicates a direct short (somewhere in the condensing unit), although it is possible that the breaker itself is bad - (but not likely).
Usually the cause of this 'short' will be - either the condenser motor in the condensing unit (outside unit) or the compressor - also in the condensing unit.
If you're mechanically inclined - and "very careful" around electricity - there is a fairly simple way to find out which component is causing the short.
Step 1 - Make sure the condensing unit (outside unit) is completely disconnected (electrically) , i.e. pull the fuses/turn off circuit breaker on outside unit and turn off thermostat.
Step 2 - disconnect the condenser motor (this is the outside fan motor). Note: when you disconnect the wires of the condenser motor "be sure" you mark/write their location, and wrap them in electric tape.
Step 3 - start the AC unit. If the breaker trips again you can pretty much rest assured it's the compressor that is shorted.
To prove it (without a doubt) - go to next step.
Step 4 - "be sure circuit breaker and thermostat is turned off" - and - 'reconnect' the condenser motor - and - then disconnect the compressor wires (mark wires and tape them).
Step 5 - Start AC.
If breaker doesn't trip - you know it's the compressor that is shorted.
If breaker 'does' trip again - then it's possible the breaker itself is bad (not likely) or there is a 'short' in the condensing unit's "wiring" somewhere (not likely).
My guess is that either the condenser motor or compressor is shorted.
If a fuse inside had blown, that would definitely reduce the current flow rather than trip the breaker.
I have replaced several breakers over the years; they no longer last forever.
Try your Amana on a different circuit, not in the kitchen; if that other circuit likes the oven, the breaker is bad.
If the alternate circuit breaker also trips, then you have not a blown fuse in the Amana but rather a shorted component inside and repairing the oven will likely cost about the same as replacing it.
You have a short circuit in the system at some point. A blown fuse on the circuit board indicates a short in the control circuit. Tripping of the breaker indicated a high voltage draw from the compressor. Check the compressor motor terminals with the wires removed and the power off. Use an Ohm meter from a terminal to ground. You should have no reading. If you have any reading the compressor motor is shorted out and the compressor is done.