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You are def overheating, If the ohms rating of the subwoofer is too low it will cause this same thermal over heat. If you have 2ohms in sub and a 4 ohms stable amp, you will overheat. Check the ohms rating of the sub to make sure this is not the problem
if youre subs are double coil the spkrs should have two sets of connections behind put red to red black to black that will give you the power you will need plus bridge it to youre amp for 1-2ohms continous power....make sure youre amp says continous power at 1-2ohms if it says in the manuel not stable it will just cut on and off at its peak because of over heating
The "CUR" display means that the amp is drawing excessive current and the protection circuit is activating. Too low impedance or shorted speakers will cause the amp to draw excessive current.
The Alpine V12 is a Class D mono amp with only one set of speaker outputs. All versions, M301, M501, and M1001 are only stable to 2ohms. Assuming that all 6 of your connected subwoofers and speakers are 4ohm and they're all connected in parallel, the amp sees a .67 ohm load, far below it's rated impedance.
When brand new, the amp could probably operate at low to moderate volume levels without drawing excessive current. But as electronic components age, their tolerances change and they become less able to withstand excessive current or mismatched impedances.
I'd get a 4-channel amp and drive the 4" speakers off the front channels and the 6X9's off the rear channels. And just power the subs off the V12 making sure that they are connected to show a minimum load of 2ohms.
No, thats what you don't what to do. Even if you have 2 matching amps you don't do that. Every amp puts out different, and for 2 subs, you want to play at the the same time. If your only running 2 10's, I personal would just run the alpine (it's a mono amp made especially for subs) thats plenty for what you have. make sure you bridge them to get the full response. And your other amp i would use for your highs or mids, but run it @ stereo , which is 300 w @ 4 ohms. (Note: 600w @ 2ohms would be bridged and would play in Mono)
Building Competition stereo's is a big hobby of mine.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. Does the voltage on either the B+ or remote pulse below ~11 volts when the LED flashes?