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Fan does not start

If i spin the fan and then swith on, fan will run normally but will not start on its own. Is there a relay for the fan to start. Or do i have to replace the capacitor

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  • Anonymous Mar 31, 2014

    We have replaced the Start Capacitor but now the condensor will come on for a few seconds then go off and the fan will quit running and just hum.

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  • Master
  • 828 Answers

Generally it is the capacitor that is the cause. There is no starting relay for the fan motor.

Posted on Jun 20, 2008

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This is a diagram of a blower relay and a fan motor, the normally closed fan relay switch goes to the low speed which is the Heat speed, the low speed is controllled by a temperature delay depicted in the low speed circuit.
The normally open fan relay switch goes to the high speed, which is the AC modes speed , also if you run the fan continuously via the fan switch on the thermostat this is also to high speed.

I suspect the temperature delay's on setting is being reached thus cycling the low speed of the fan.



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Check capacitor if its good then Ohm the wires to motor if common to start winding or common to run winding is open then motor is out on internal overload ( overheated) cool with water until windings are closed check voltage to motor. If capacitor good windings closed and correct voltage to motor then motor is bad. Also if windind from start to run is open motor is bad. But be sure wires going to motor havent been damaged or cut into. Also if there is any circuit board with fan relay be sure relay is closed and voltage going in and back out to motor.

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My goodman cental air system is having problems. First, the blower inside (furnace) keeps running for hrs after the outside condensor shuts down. Now, the condenser blower motor wont operate at full speed....


the cause of your indoor fan running all the time or for long time after your heat pump has stopped heating is the fan delay relay. It has welded its internal contacts together. If you take off the side below the control panel, the fan delay relay is normally mounted on the header where the fan discharges. Good news, the fan delay relay are fairly inexpensive and easily to change.

As far as the condensing fan motor not running at full speed, when it was changed, did the technician install the correct fan motor. Most condensing fan motors are either 875 rpm or 1175 rpm. They are exactly the same size and if the technician did not look closely he could have installed the wrong rpm motor. There is another possibility, he may have used the wrong capacitor. I have seen the condensing fan actually operate backwards at a lower than normal rpm. The fan if properly installed will discharge air upwards.

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If it isn't bound up then it is probably a bad contact-relay or capacitor - I always recommend you replace them together because the seem to fail about the same time. This is the cheapest place I have found to purchase them - http://www.hvacpartsoutlet.com/York-Contactors.aspx

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1 Answer

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Absolutely, however, you want to properly diagnose the reason why the fan is not running. It could be a less expensive part than the fan motor itself.
First, check to see if you have the proper voltage going to the motor. I believe your motor requires 240volts ac. If you do not have 240 volts, you have a control problem.......either the thermostat is failing to close R & G or your blower relay may have failed to close the contacts necessary for your fan to operate.
If you have the voltage, then you want try spinning the blower wheel with your hand. Does it spin freely? Is the motor warm/hot? If so, turn everything off for an hour or so. As soon as your energize it, try spinning the motor with your hand again.....if it spins freely with no resistance and then starts running by itself, the problem is the run capacitor (approx $20.00 depending on where you purchase it from). If there is resistance when you try to spin it, the problem is most likely with the bearings and you will need to replace the motor.......if you have to replace the motor, go ahead and replace the capacitor also, making sure it is properly "matched" with your new motor.

I hope you find this to be very helpful to you, moving forward. :-)

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I'm assuming you can hear the compressor running. The following answer is based on the assumption that the compressor is running but the fan motor is not.

1. Make sure the motor is cooled down by shutting it off for a couple of hours.
2. Restart and immediately upon restart, try to spin the motor blade in it's normal direction.
After performing steps 1 & 2:
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- If the motor does not start spinning on it's own, does not feel difficult to turn at any time during the test and the bearings tested "okay", the problem is most likely electrical such as a wiring problem or failed relay. Check to ensure you have the proper voltage going to the motor. At this point, if you have limited experience with electrical motors and controls, it would be best to recruit help from a qualified service technician. Also, you want to look at your warranty on your unit. Many units today have a 5 year parts warranty; however, they have to be installed by a qualified A/C contractor for the parts warranty to be honored.

I hope this information helps you to better troubleshoot and understand your unit so that you can either continue to attempt the repair yourself or have a better idea of where to go for professional assistance. Good Luck! :-)

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Air conditioner blower does not work.


Fist, be very careful. I assuming this is NOT a gas furnace. Turn the thermostat to OFF and fan to AUTO. There should be a power disconnect box right there next to the A/H. Open the front panel of the air handler and and visually inspect the area for burnt wires or debris in the wheel. Go back to the thermostat and set the fan to on....if it's a digital thermostat, you will have to use a long stick or screwdriver to get the wheel spinning (if it doesn't move easily, new motor and capacitor), turn the power back on and go to the thermostat while the wheel is spinning and turn the fan to "on" and run the temperature low. If the fan continues running up to speed, it needs a new capacitor ($10-15); if it doesn't start running, it could be the motor or the fan relay. To check if it's the motor, you will need a multimeter. Check the voltage from the wire going to the relay (not on the heat strip at the top) and the other wire that DOESN'T go to the capacitor. If it reads around 220 volts, it's a bad motor; if it reads about 115 volts it may be a bad relay. To check this, check the voltage on the connectors at the very bottom of that relay and it should read about 24 volts. If it does, tap on top of relay, if the motor start, replace the relay. If there's not 24 volts to activate the relay, it could be a loose or broken wire or a bad relay in the thermostat. ALWAYS KEEP IN MIND THAT THERE IS 220 volts on those terminals, so be careful of where your hands, fingers and tools are touching.

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