Question about GE WHRE5260E Top Load Washer

1 Answer

GE Top-loader Leaks Water from Vertical Tube Behind Tub on X-Large Loads

I actually have a WJXR2080T2WW model GE (3 controls/1 master - 8 Cycle 2 Speed), it's about 12 -13 yrs old. It just recently started leaking some water, mostly on X-Large Water selections, a little on Medium load and I believe it's coming from a Vertical cream opaque tube that's to the rear almost behind the washing tub on the left side. I don't know what this tube is for, it starts somewhere at the top of the machine (can't see it) and runs down to near the bottom of the washer chassis and then has a short 90 degree curve to an opening. No hose is connected to the bottom open end.

When we've had water on the floor after a cycle, this is the only place that there is water dripping from. None under the tub or the water pump. It does seem that the water level is a bit higher than normal on the X-large loads, but I can't be sure, not recalling what it looked like before. Medium loads water level appears normal, and we still get a bit of water on the floor from under the machine.

Would appreciate any educated fix-it experience or clues as to what the problem is and how to fix the problem.

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  • 10 more comments 
  • ksbrcupofjaz Jul 06, 2008

    Geez, I guess no one bothers to read what I wrote for the symtoms. Hey guys, I said it's all about the water level!! Not agitating, not transmissions, not a LEAK!!




    The "small / medium / large load" selector is not supplying the right level of water per the selection. Small is delivering MEDIUM, medium is giving LARGE, and large is too much enough to spill over and apparently down the over fow tube.


    Sometimes the washer does NOT do the SPIN part of the cycle (the machine washes and agitates just fine).


    So I want to know, what part (I assume electrical) do I replace? What does actually control the wash level??

  • ksbrcupofjaz Jul 07, 2008

    mikedurland -Thanks for the follow up answer, sorry for the confusion on the symptoms. My second post about the problem I elaborated that it wasn't a leak as first thought, because I couldn't see the over flow tube behind the tub. I didn't know at the time that is what that vertical tube was for.




    Can you explain what " if the basket is moving while it is agitating " ?? Not sure what the "basket" is? As long as I've had this washer (12 years) from new, the whole tub rocks rotationally in unison with the agitator. As far as I can determine, the wash action is all normal, except that it's been sometimes not doing the spin-drain cycle the same times it's not delivering the correct water level to the selected load setting.


    Does the Load Switch completely control the water level, or is there another component that also does this in conjunction with the switch?  


    Would the malfunctioning Load switch also cause the missed spin cycle (it just drains water, but doesn't spin)??


    Thanks for helping me with getting to the specifics of this problem.

  • ksbrcupofjaz Jul 13, 2008

    Tried adjusting the small threaded hex head screw you suggested, but no help there. I'm pretty convinced though that it is still the culpret.

    How do I find the part number for the load selector for the year and model of our washer (WJXR2080T2WW model GE)? And where are some good places to buy that part online (cheap of course)?

    mikedurland - Thanks for the suggestions.

  • ksbrcupofjaz Jul 13, 2008

    mikedurland - Tried the adjustments to the hex head screw on the load selector, no difference. How do I find the actual part number for the selector for my WJXR2080T2WW model GE washer and any suggestions for a cheap place to order it from in the Internet? 

    Also, will the selector switch come pre-adjusted correctly?

    Thanks for the suggestions.

  • ksbrcupofjaz Jul 13, 2008

    mikedurland - Tried the adjustments to the hex head screw on the load selector, no difference. How do I find the actual part number for the selector for my WJXR2080T2WW model GE washer and any suggestions for a cheap place to order it from in the Internet? 
    Also, will the selector switch come pre-adjusted correctly?
    Thanks for the suggestions.



  • ksbrcupofjaz Jul 13, 2008

    mikedurland - Tried the adjustments to the hex head screw on the load selector, no difference. How do I find the actual part number for the selector for my WJXR2080T2WW model GE washer and any suggestions for a cheap place to order it from in the Internet? 
    Also, will the selector switch come pre-adjusted correctly?
    Thanks for the suggestions.



  • ksbrcupofjaz Jul 13, 2008

    mikedurland - Tried the adjustments to the hex head screw on the load selector, no difference. How do I find the actual part number for the selector for my WJXR2080T2WW model GE washer and any suggestions for a cheap place to order it from in the Internet? 
    Also, will the selector switch come pre-adjusted correctly?
    Thanks for the suggestions.



  • ksbrcupofjaz Jul 13, 2008

    mikedurland - Tried the adjustments to the hex head screw on the load selector, no difference. How do I find the actual part number for the selector for my WJXR2080T2WW model GE washer and any suggestions for a cheap place to order it from in the Internet? 
    Also, will the selector switch come pre-adjusted correctly?
    Thanks for the suggestions.



  • ksbrcupofjaz Jul 13, 2008

    mikedurland - Tried the adjustments to the hex head screw on the load selector, no difference. How do I find the actual part number for the selector for my WJXR2080T2WW model GE washer and any suggestions for a cheap place to order it from in the Internet? 
    Also, will the selector switch come pre-adjusted correctly?
    Thanks for the suggestions.



  • ksbrcupofjaz Jul 14, 2008

    I did a search for the part using GE Washer Parts and the model number and found a site with the part for $22.99 + $5.99 for priority mail. Very nice folks at helpfulitems.com in Texas, will ship it the same day. Hate eBay, dealers are too slow to ship, 3 -5 days and they over charge you for shipping and then send it by Parcel Post - the cheapest and slowest way possible.


    I was just thinking about that hose from the Washer-Pressure-Water-Level-Switch. One parts site had some install suggestions from parts buyers, and one guys said to be sure to "blow the hose" to create vacuum when you "estimate the water level". Huh?? Not only didn't make any sense, it was the worst mangling of the English language I've seen in a while.


    So how do the "pros" install that hose so the vacuum is correct for the water level?


    Thanks for your help.


  • ksbrcupofjaz Jul 20, 2008

    mikedurland, 
    Replaced the load selector switch - easy - but the water levels are still screwed up and the washer doesn't put water in for the rince cycle and doesn't do the spin cycle.

    I didn't replace the vaccum hose because it looked good. cold it be that, or is there a sensor somewhere for the Load Seclector Switch? 

    If it's the hose, how long is it and what type / guage? Can I just buy hose at a Home Depot? And where does it go to  and how do I get to that location?

    If it's a sensor of some kind, what is it called so I can search online for it and how do I get to it?

    Boy, I'm just about ready to just buy a new washer (NOT GE!)

    Thanks for your input.

  • ksbrcupofjaz Jul 30, 2008

    mikedurland,
    Your suggestion of checking the hose from one end to the other was the last key in making the GE Washer work like new!!

    While I could not find any leak in the hose itself ( I verified the hose from the water level box in the side to the tube to the Level Selector with a vacuum gauge), I cut off a slight amount at each end where it had widened from the old connections so it was a tight fit again at each nipple. I also cleaned out the nipple entry at the water level box on the tube as best as I could. It doesn't look like there is a way to take that part off to really clean it.

    Never the less, the water levels are perfect again, the washer does all the cycles and spins correctly, and works nearly as good as new.

    I got a tip from my 85 year old Mom - she says that she and all her friends always do a long low level cycle with a 1/2 gallon of Vinegar added to the water to desolve the hard water mineral build ups in the system every few months. She has a 24 year old Whirlpool washer that still runs like new and never any repairs. Any credibility to that "Old Wives Tale" (sorry Mom)?

    mikedurland - you are the King of DIY Washer Repair Sleuthing!

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  • 481 Answers

It sounds like the basket is not locked when it is agitating, if so the water will climb the wall during the wash cycle and leak out of the overflow (which is the plastic tube you described). if this is the case, it is a transmission brake problem. it can be fixed by a professional, but you might want to look into buying a new machine.

Posted on Jun 27, 2008

  • 4 more comments 
  • Mike Durland
    Mike Durland Jul 07, 2008


    • yes i read it it said "It just recently started leaking some water"

    • i also read "It does seem that the water level is a bit higher than normal on the X-large loads, but I can't be sure" 

    • so now your saying that it is definitely higher and now your sure that is what the problem is.

    • okay

    • if you can watch the water level go up and over the tub and onto the floor before the machine starts to agitate then the water level switch is bad or needs to be adjusted.

    the reason why i suspected the transmission brake problem is because it is an extremely common problem with those machines and it matched the symptoms you described in your first post ; exactly. i am trying to help you with YOUR problem for FREE. at least you can be polite.


    • if it does not overfill before agitating, then watch the washer when it is agitating. if the basket is moving while it is agitating then you know it is the transmission brake problem.

  • Mike Durland
    Mike Durland Jul 07, 2008

    FIRST POSTHEADLINE:GE Top-loader Leaks Water from Vertical Tube Behind..


    SECOND POST
    not a LEAK!! 

  • Mike Durland
    Mike Durland Jul 07, 2008

    yes, a malfunctioning water level switch can cause the machine not to spin. and would cause the problem with overflowing too. you may be able to adjust it, the adjustment screw is the blue one in the picture. the switch has a diaphragm inside that senses the pressure in the tub, and if it thinks there is too much water in the tub then it will not spin. just loosen the screw 1/2 turn to a full turn and try it again. you need a t20 torx screwdriver to take off the control panel, the screws are along the top of the control panel. the part is only $30 ifyou want to replace it. the basket is the inner tub that the clothes go in, it has holes in it.

  • Mike Durland
    Mike Durland Jul 13, 2008

    http://cgi.ebay.com/GE-WH12X10065--Washe...




    • here is one on ebay for $12.40 + $7 shipping

    • the part number is WH12X10065

    • repairclinic.com has it for about $30 + shipping

    • also check the tube that connects to it for possible air leaks, maybe even replace it just in case

  • Mike Durland
    Mike Durland Jul 14, 2008


    • the water level switch is already adjusted from the factory, just replace it and plug in the wires.

    •  the pressure hose is just as easy, just slip the ends on as far as they go and your done 

    • (make sure you use the same route as the old hose, they have it going that way for good reason). 

    • the only stipulation when installing the hose or the water level switch is that the washer has to be empty (no water in it). 

    • no need to "blow the hose" :) he he

    • that is funny, i read some of the suggestions and solutions posted on these sites and they are ridiculous!

  • Mike Durland
    Mike Durland Jul 20, 2008

    You can try changing the tube, just take the old one to home depot and match it up. it just runs from the switch to the side of the tub.




    • as far as the other problems, i am stumped. 

    • the only sensor to the amount of water in the tub is the switch you just changed.

    •  the only thing i can think of is if you accidently put the wires in the wrong place when changing the switch. i know its only 3 wires but i have done it before. 

    • also check where the pressure tube mounts to the tub and make sure no dirt or lint is in or around it. i have had a problem where the tub would just keep overflowing because of this problem.

    • sorry you are having so much trouble with this machine, i know how frustrating it can be.

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GE Top-loader Leaks Water from Vert Tube Behind Tub on X-Large Loads


Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.

  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.

  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.

  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.

  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.

  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details
If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
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"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

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Kitchenaid Top Loader leaks


It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time

During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. 


Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. 



During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. 


Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. 


Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

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