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I do not get any voltage on my igniter (thatâ??s how things started) Trying to fix this problem, I installed new igniter, new controller board, and new draft safeguard switch. My inducer motor is working fine, I get 115VAC. When inducer motor is spinning: Voltage on safeguard switch measures 1.5 Volts Voltage on pressure switch measures 2.5 Volts Voltage on igniter measures 3 Volts Voltage on two limit switches measures 26 Volts each. I get low voltage on pressure switch, but I know that negative pressure creates continuity (Removed it and checked by Ohmmeter while creating suction on the tube). I get error code 31. Thank you very much. I am working on this for several days. I do not know what else to do? Please help

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  • shonged Nov 12, 2010

    Your solution came a bit late but you are correct. Yesterday I found the problem and hope this post will help others. I had a lots of dust/dirt accumulated in the white connector going into the control board edge. After cleaning I got 25Volts on pressure sensor (not on draft safeguard switch though -any comment?) and my igniter start glowing and everything start working.

  • shonged Nov 12, 2010

    Would be nice if it came earlier. Thank you for responding.

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Your going to have to check out all possible components that could be affecting the control board. It sound like, for some obscure reason, a sensor such as a flame sensor or high limit switch or component is defective, and not allowing the control board to supply voltage to the igniter. Also, bad grounds and connections are a tricky and common problem, so ensure all wires and connectors are tight and clean, and any oxidation removed by emory cloth. I've seen this similar problem on web blogs, but never have seen a reply of a solution. Make sure all connectors are tight and clean, and check grounds for a good connection.
Wish I had a definitive answer, but good luck, and hope this helps.

Posted on Nov 12, 2010

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I have a 08 Chevy Malibu that won't start. My dash light come on and so will my headlights. It had a good battery connection and the starter is good. It did have a blown ignition senor so we replaced that...


ignition sensor ? I been fix cars for over thirty years an that's a new one for me . I worked for a Chevy dealer for a number of years ! Plus a Cadillac , Pontiac , GMC etc... Maybe you mean ignition switch ? Or crankshaft position sensor ?
Now then lets see if we can decipher the problem your having , When you turn the key to the start position does anything happen ? I am trying to determine if you have a no crank - no start or a crank no start problem . Now which is yours doing or not doing ! When you turn the key to start the vehicle does the engine do anything?
You need to know how the starting system works , when you turn the key in the ignition , the switch sends a discreet voltage signal to the BCM - body control module , an if there is no anti-theft system problems the BCM sends a message on , well here read this from the service information manual for your vehicle .
Circuit Description
When the ignition switch is turned to the Start position, the body control module (BCM) receives battery voltage on the ignition 1 voltage circuit, and less than 5 volts on the off/run/crank voltage circuit. The BCM supplies voltage to energize the RUN/CRANK Relay 32. The BCM sends a high speed GMLAN serial data message to the engine control module (ECM) that the key is in the start position. The ECM receives the message from the BCM, and also receives a serial data message from the transmission control module (TCM) containing the shift lever position. If the shift lever is in Park or Neutral when ignition switch is turned to Start, the ECM supplies voltage to the START Relay 31. The START relay supplies voltage to the S terminal of the starter solenoid, through the 30 A STRTR Fuse 26, in order to crank the engine. This is a very complex system , an without a factory diagnostic scan tool it would be difficult too fix . I suggest you take this to the dealer or a ASE certified repair shop . You could make the problem worst then it is , You could spend thousands fixing it . Do you know what a GMLAN serial data communication network is ? Or how the Anti - theft system works ? I suggest you take it to someone who does !

Mar 15, 2015 | 2008 Chevrolet Malibu

1 Answer

Lost power than shut off and will not start. Replaced fuel filter and fuel pump. Still will not start.


First, check to make sure that every connection imaginable is secure, solid, & corrosion/contaminant/conduction free!

Though tightening loose wires, un-kinking/unblocking hoses & or exhaust pipes, etc. usually just help to avoid system failures & problems, they CAN, too, sometimes, themselves, be fixes!

And sometimes fixes are both unthinkably specific AND simple, that we'd never think them to be a problem's cause, so we never check them!

A Pal did most of the work fixing problem after problem while restoring a Jaguar improperly stored by a body shop. Who knew what costly parts we might need, so minimizing expenses could literally count for triple, in this case.

Replacing its' battery with one that got the car to start & saved us a few bucks at the moment, sure worked for us, too!

But then, if the car wasn't started & used EVERY DAY, it seemed to increasingly need a trickle charging to stay charged & often, even that wasn't enough & it'd need a jump ... then a lengthier boost each time, it seemed. The auto parts store even rapid charged it & affirmed it reading as "charged fully," yet a few attempts to crank the engine, & it was down 75%!

I'd seen this before & was expecting we'd be needing an alternator, a voltage regulator, a starter, or all three!

My mechanic Pal advised me that sometimes, despite a jump getting a car started or a charging allowing a battery to "read" as fully charged, once some batteries fail, they often also lose their ability to even, reliably conduct well, AS PART of the electrical system!

So then, the needs of components served along the way, in turn, might not be getting the power they required to work, or work as designed! Those things could be accessories, or lights or safety features that improve "your going" ... or they can be to ignition systems , etc. without which, you're probably "not going" anywhere, anyway!

Anyway, we tried another different but comparable battery we had on hand, that worked starting other vehicles, as needed & that had shown as fully charged after a night charging, & sure enough, it, too wouldn't provide enough power to allow the engine to crank or turn over! I'd even had the one

I was sure I'd next be askin' my Pal which we should try installing first; the alternator, starter or voltage regulator, when he instead said, "now watch."

He removed the battery we'd just tried & replaced it with a brand new one of nearly the exact size & spec of the previous two that hadn't worked (or worked for long!)

Reluctantly, I turned the key and, IMMEDIATELY, the car roared to life with even a couple of cool electrical features working that I'd just thought were options not installed on this one!

The moral of the story is, always check the simplest fixes first, three ways, FIRST before the harder more expensive ones. You can buy replacement bulbs, new, that are faulty, right out of the box, so, before you rewire, try a few other new bulbs, first!

And with batteries, it's easier to ensure a good one stays alive its longest by using it &/or keeping it charged than it is to expect that you can ever, reliably, fully recharge ones that you might (or not) be able to revive, but that might not stay, dependable enough to KEEP doing the FULL job they need to do for EVERYTHING to work, and work well, consistently!

And sure enough, it'll be some supplemental system not powered that'll make ten other things not work, or even worse, to "go bad."

So, 1) check, clean & tighten all your connections & then, try getting the largest batter that can be safely installed & that has the highest cranking amp specs. Sometimes it's those extra cranks that can get the internal combustion cycle to catch & continue on!

After trying & hoping success from easiest first things to try, one can always graduate toward trying any more complicated, nexts, right?

Wishing you good luck & success!!

Jim, In Pittsburgh

Mar 05, 2015 | Kubota Rtv900 / Rtv1100 Aluminum Roof...

1 Answer

Car doesn't start. when ignition is turned (new ignition) I hear a relay chatter and my horn sounds intermittely, Battery is new & tested goo


The chatter is due to low voltage. Check all the connections. The battery may have corrosion that lowers the voltage.

Oct 20, 2012 | 1999 Dodge Neon

1 Answer

2005 chevy malibu i replaced ignition now it starts for one second then turns off is can i directly permantly insert the chip from the key directly into sensor box which is cinnected to the ignition &...


A common problem is the ignition cylinder and/or the ignition switch. With the buzzing of the relay, i would say all this may be related to the ignition switch. A low voltage supply to any of the circuits that the switch feeds will give strange electrical conditions. If going to replace the ignition switch, then also do the cylinder at the same time. With all things described, sure sounds like the ignition switch. P.S. The locks may be related to the ignition switch problem or not at all. With that said, would suggest looking at the BCM(body control module)It control locks, and also has alot to do with the security system. See picture at bottom of this page of corroded BCM connectors. 4- Passlock Ignition lock
cylinder removed.
Install new cylinder.Try to start- it wont or dies.Leave key on for 10-12 minutes, or until light goes out.Then turn off key for 10 seconds.Turn key to 'on' position for 5 seconds, then turn to start

Oct 27, 2011 | 2005 Chevrolet Malibu Maxx

1 Answer

I have 2002 dodge Dakota I sparked the battery and now the headlights taillights cargo and dome and dash lights don't work I replaced headlights switch checked fuses and replaced computer idk what to do...


Check these fuses again:
In the Power Distribution Center (in the engine compartment, left fender panel) Fuse #3 (20 Amp) Fuse #7 (40 Amp), Fuse #12 (20 Amp) and in the Junction Block (on the left end of the dash) Fuse #1 (15 Amp)
Use a test lamp and make sure that these fuses have power. All of these fuses should all have power at all times, regardless of ignition switch position. If they are all good and have power, then you probably need to replace your Central Timer Module. All of the circuits you listed are dependant on this module for operation.

The Central Timer Module is located at the left kick panel.

Central Timer Module System

The CTM is available in a BASE or a HIGHLINE configuration. The BASE and HIGHLINE CTM provide the following features:
• Battery saver functions for exterior and interior lights
• Cargo lamps chime warning
• Courtesy lamps
• Dome lamps
• Dome lamp defeat
• Door ajar switch state
• Fog lamps
• Headlamp time delay
• Intermittent wiper controls
• Low and high beam head lamps
• Optical horn
• Park lamps

In addition, the HIGHLINE CTM provides the following features:

• Central locking
• Door lock inhibit
• Driver door unlock
• Enhanced accident response
• Horn chirp
• Optical chirp
• Power door locks
• Remote keyless entry (VTSS)
• Remote radio

May 03, 2011 | Dodge Dakota Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I HAVE A GOOD BATTERY AND NEW STARTER BUT WHEN I TRY AND START IT IT JUST CLICKS


Sounds like the S terminal isnt getting power. You have two power cable that go to your starter solenoid, a power cable that has direct battery power, and the s terminal which gives power when you turn the key to the start position. First things first, verify that its the problem. Use a DVOM and check the voltage to the S terminal from the ignition switch while trying to crank. You should see battery voltage. If you see none/low voltage then theres your problem. Check the voltage for the S terminal at the back of the ignition switch, if its battery voltage then there is a break in the wire, if its 0V then you need an ignition switch. Hope this helps!!

Dec 15, 2010 | 1995 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

How do you replace the ignition cylinder on a 1997 toyota 4 runner


Here's what you need:
1) Drill
2) 5/32′ cobalt drill bit (use cobalt, it's for drilling hard metals and is necessary)
3) 10mm socket wrench
Here's what you do:
1) Remove panel underneath steering column (4 X 10mm bolts)
2) Remove plastic shield covering ignition (should just snap out)
3) On the underside of the ignition assembly, you'll see a small hole (~1/4′) about 2 inches back from where the key goes. Using the 5/32′ drill bit, drill up into the hole, trying to center the drill bit on the pin which is inside the hole. You can normally push this retaining pin in if the ignition is turned to the first position and slide the cylinder out.
4) When the pin is drilled out completely, the lock cylinder should be easy to pop out with a small flat head screwdriver pried just underneath where the key goes on the front of the ignition.
5) The new cylinder should slide right in (with the key inserted and turned to the first position - ACC)
Heres what it cost:
1) Ignition lock cylinder assembly from Toyota dealer ~ $115
2) 5/32′ cobalt drill bit ~$4

Oct 29, 2010 | Toyota 4Runner Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I replaced the 2 STK392-110 convergence amps with STK392-180s, and the repair looked good after it was complete. But 4 days later, after several hrs. of the unit being powered on, the convergence went out...


Hi, well I applaud you for wanting to have a go, but you must make sure that you are starting in the right place, That is The Power Supply, as, if, that isn't right nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. That’s it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then that’s a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty, and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be able to say.. "Oh that’s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish, a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins. The Tools you will need are A SERVICE MANUAL a Good Multimeter, a Signal generator, a Signal Tracer, pref an Oscilloscope, Soldering Iron, De-soldering iron, Probably, too, A SMT Hot Air desolderer (for the Surface Mount IC's), Compressed Air, An Anti-Static Wrist Strap, (MOST IMPORTANT, to prevent ESD), Cutters, Screwdrivers, sometimes, Torx, drivers too. Tweezers, are real handy, a magnifying glass, or eyepiece, a good strong white Light. OH, and you MUST have the original remote control too, (Sometimes one must obtain, purchase, a special “Servicing remote”) as one needs this to "Program" the Computer in the TV, after, and during servicing, and to be able to put the TV, into "Service Mode" too.

When servicing try not to let the entire thing overwhelm you as one, treat the set as a conjunction of “Units”. Meaning that we can break the unit up into sections, for instance we have a Power Supply, and Audio section, a Remote Control section, we have a Input Control section, we have a Video Control section, and so on. Now all these connect to specific parts of the circuit. Some have no relationship with each other and some are dependent upon each other. What we need to do is try to understand our “Fault” and isolate it to at least an “Area”. Now when we have isolated the apparent problem, we then need to check our “Input” to that section and also the “Output” of that section, also we must first check that sections supply voltage and current, are correct. Depending on the unit being serviced, the Repair options, may be limited to changing a “Board” to clear the fault. Often these boards are exchangeable, and you get a rebate back, if when you purchase the new board, you send them you old broken board, and they then repair that, and around it goes. Other times, one must go down to “Board level” to effect a repair, always double check, before determining some component is faulty, it is best to isolate/remove, the component to test, often an “in situ” test can give erroneous reading due to “Other” components connected, altering the readings. Always replace with as good if not better components that you are replacing, skimping of component costs is counterproductive, in the long run. It can often be a great troubleshooting method, to completely isolate the “Faulty” part of the circuit, if you can, isolate the in & out, and also remove, the “Native” power from, it too. You power from and external source, then also you can provide an External “Drive” to this circuit which you will NOW, be able to test under a, “know good” situation, which is so important to gain a benchmark for operation. NEVER EVER simply replace a Board or Component without ascertaining WHY, it has failed, as seldom does anything spontaneously fail, unless placed under stress at all operating times, such as a power Supply or the like.

www.go-gddq.com/upload/2009_02/09022211161863.pdf
Above is a training manual to help you understand what's going on.


Below is your service manual. elektrotanya.com/pioneer_pdp-506pe_pu.../download.html

Jul 17, 2010 | Pioneer PDP-4270XD 42 in. HD-Ready Plasma...

1 Answer

Err22 showing.How can I start?My machine is Precor 956 model.


The speed sensor is a hall effect sensor that emits a pulse when a flywheel lobe passes between
its transmitter and receiver. The speed control circuit processes the pulse train emitted by the
speed sensor. The speed sensor signal is a real time representation of the operating speed of
the treadmill. The speed control circuit compares the real time speed (speed sensor output) with
the speed that it expects the treadmill to be operating at and acts accordingly to control treadmill
speed or initiate an error code sequence, if necessary. Typically, if a problem exists with the
speed sensor the drive motor will operate (perhaps only briefly) before a speed related error
occurs (errors 20-26).
1. Set the treadmill circuit breaker in the “on” position. Using a DC voltmeter, measure
the voltage between terminal 3 of J2 (green wire) and terminal 4 of J2 (black wire) on
the lower PCA. Slowly, rotate the drive motor flywheel. The voltage should read
approximately 5 Vdc when a flywheel lobe is between the speed sensor “legs” and
approximately 0.25 Vdc when a flywheel lobe is not between the speed sensor “legs”

2. If the voltages in step 1 are correct, go to step 5. If the voltage in step 1 is 0 Vdc or
significantly low when a flywheel lobe is between the speed sensor “legs, continue with step
3.
3. Measure the voltage between terminal 1 of J2 (red wire) and terminal 4 of J2 (black wire) on
the lower PCA. The voltage should read approximately 5 Vdc.
Flywheel
Speed
Sensor C954, C956 Treadmill
Page 1-24 Page 24
4. If the voltage is missing or significantly low, disconnect the speed sensor plug from the lower
PCA. Measure the voltage between pins 1 & 4 of the J2 plug on the lower PCA. If the
voltage is approximately 5 Vdc, replace the speed sensor. If the voltage is missing or
significantly low, replace the lower PCA.
5. At this point the speed sensor output is good, but a speed error occurs. There are two
potential causes for this condition. They are upper PCA or lower PCA. There are no good
means of troubleshooting these components other than substituting known good
components. Replace only one component at a time. If the component that you replaced
does not correct the problem, replace the original component. Try substituting the lower
PCA first then the upper PCA, if necessary.

tips extracted from the technical manual Precor956

Jul 14, 2010 | Precor C956i Treadmills with HR /...

2 Answers

Spacemaker XL1800 (JVM1850CF001) This microwave stopped heating and started making a humming noise while trying to cook. I read some possible parts that will fix the problem. How difficult would a megatron...


look behind front control panel. there is a tech sheet. you can trouble shoot this problem, but you may need a voltmeter and an amp meter. it sounds to me like the high voltage transformer is bad or not working. it helps power the magatron. the hum is the mag trying to work, but it doe'nt have the high voltage it needs. this unit new sells for appr. $350.00.

Feb 01, 2010 | GE Spacemaker JVM1640SJ Microwave Oven

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