Question about Homelite ZR10926 16" Chain Saw

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My Homelite ZR10926 is difficult to start when cold. It starts great when warmed up. What can I look at? Also, what is the gap size for the mag?

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  • johnr72hd Nov 12, 2010

    I have a new plug, good gas of the proper mix. It starts fine after warm up, just have trouble on cold start.



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Do a clean of all fuel components,change the spark plug (when you buy it go by the specifications on the store book the gap is set by factory) or the whole coil (aka spark plug cable and coil).Do a good gas / oil mix by 7.7 oz oil on 1 gallon gas (shake well).

Posted on Nov 11, 2010

  • Doctor PC
    Doctor PC Nov 13, 2010

    Small engines, including chainsaws, can be frustrating to start. This is especially true when starting a chainsaw just out of storage, when engine temperatures are extremely cold or when in need of a tune-up. Many times a new chainsaw will give you starting trouble right out of the box.
    Here is a step by step set of instructions that can make starting a chainsaw less of a chore. It has been developed from tips given by loggers who use the tool every day, year after year. The first big thing to remember is to keep the saw clean, make sure it is full of gas and oil and perform regular maintenance.
    If maintenance and tune-up isn't working. You just know the saw is a lemon. You've worked up a heart-pounding sweat and are sucking in air like a vacuum. Relax, all is not lost.
    turning everything off. Flip off the on/off switch. Turn the throttle off. Push or pull the choke to the off position and deal with anything else that might need to be switched off (off is the key word). Some even suggest removing the spark plug, pulling the cord a couple of times, then replacing the plug.
    Flooding usually prevents a saw from starting. Flooding is the major cause of a stalled chain saw engine. Flooding is caused by too much gas applied at the wrong time. You need to prevent or remedy the flooding effect.

    The rebooting step (step #2) will improve this condition. Another suggestion loggers make is pulling the engine's cord through 8 times with all systems off. I don't know if this actually drains the liquid gas or gives a bit more time to counteract the excess liquid gas but I am assured it works. Do it 8 times!
    Now. Set the on/off switch in the "on" position. The throttle "on" position should be turned on only as a last resort. Actually, I am told some late-model chainsaws specifically instruct you to tweak the throttle - so do it if instructed. Put the choke to the "on" position.

    The procedure in step #3 helps clear the engine of too much "liquid" gasoline. Again, putting down the saw down for a cup of coffee or soda will sometimes do the same thing.

    OK. Everything should be back on...
    By doing all this you will make the saw (and you) more comfortable and start the process of clearing a flooded engine. Just as important, you've given yourself a minute or two more to recoup.
    Make sure you have the choke in the "on" position. When you do, pull the engine cord several times through until the engine "pops" one time. A pop is a quick audible response and **** by the engine without cranking. Please, NO more than one pop with choke on or you risk another fatal flood.
    With the choke in the off position, pull the engine's crank cord through again. The engine should start in 1 to 3 pulls. Try it first without using the throttle control (unless recommended by the manufacturer).
    Colder weather or a saw just out of storage can complicate these instructions. Here is further advice. "If I haven't gotten a pop in four pulls I transition to the part throttle, no-choke position and if I haven't gotten a start in maybe 8 pulls I return to the choke position for one or two pulls. I am sure this varies with different chainsaws, but you shouldn't have to pull very many times in the choke position, even in cold weather."
    Here's How:

    1. Find your equipment/operators manual for parts description.
    2. Find the air filter. Refer to the operators manual.
    3. Detach the filter and clean with soap and water.
    4. Either substitute with a spare or let original dry and replace.
    5. Check all screws and bolts for tightness.
    6. Inspect the starter cord for free play in the spring when pulled out completely.
    7. Make sure the cord is not frayed and the handle is not broken.
    8. Find the flywheel and clean with toothbrush and a spray bathroom cleaner.
    9. Find the pawls and clean with toothbrush and a spray bathroom cleaner.
    10. Inspect chain for cracks and tooth wear. Replace when cracks appear or teeth are worn.
    11. Clean the bar groove and sprocket teeth at the end of the bar with the toothbrush.
    12. Make sure the chain catcher is secure and in place.
    13. Check the chain brake by running the saw at full speed and activate the break.
    14. The saw should stop immediately
    15. Service if anything is not working properly.



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Chainsaw won't start when warmed up

Coil is possible, change the plug (cheap insurance) and try it. If problem persists try this shortly after it quits.
Ignition Coil Test by
You may need to use a jumper wire between the threaded part of the plug and the cooling fins. You do not have to bend up the electrode.

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You must help us if we are to help you.

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Here is the website of a short video to show you exactly how to gap the spark plug. write back if you need any more info.

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