Question about GE JKP55 Electric Double Oven

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JKP55WOP1WG- both ovens heat to set temp but shut off after only a few minutes- timed bake is NOT in operation. ????

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE Model JTP15 oven shows F3 error code

I have the same problem. I noticed that the oven gets to the selected temp ok. Then when the pilot attempts to RELIGHT, it gets the error F3. Did you get a solution? After other posts, I will see if the temp sensor is around 1100 ohm as suggested by others. Ken

Posted on Sep 24, 2007

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aborcass
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SOURCE: GE Profile -Installed wall oven - won't heat

brand new??? under a year old??? if so you have a warr call for service, but it sounds like an ignitor isssue, brand new , perhapsgot damaged in shipping 1-800-ge-cares

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

  • 3230 Answers

SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
good luck,

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

jumptrout51
  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: GE JKP27 F2 error

F2 Oven over temp - exceeded 590F with door in unlocked position or 990F with door locked If actual temp condition occurred, look for welded relay contacts or high resistance connection or any cause in the oven temperature sensor circuit

Posted on Oct 30, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE True Temp Oven not heating. Broiler works

we bought a new oven

Posted on Dec 15, 2009

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1 Answer

My oven is not heating up properly, it either doesn't heat up or it takes a very long time to heat up. The range top works fine and the broiler works, but when i set it to bake it doesn't or takes long.


There are two possibilities for problems with the range. If it has a "timed bake" setting for the oven then it's possible that the last person who used it neglected to return the setting to the manual mode. In "timed bake" mode, the oven will heat to approx. 160 - 185 degrees, what is called a "keep warm" temp. It will maintain that heat setting regardless of what you set the oven temp control to, as long as you're not in the time frame that it's set to bake. This will make trying to bake anything a very difficult procedure.
The second possibility is that the oven glo coil igniter is cracked and will not heat to the proper temp to allow the electricity to flow through it to the oven gas safety valve to allow it to open and let the gas flow to the burner. These things are ceramic and for some reason crack in normal use. If it has a top broiler, that unit is obviously good. Unfortunately, the igniters are seldom interchangeable. You would need a tech to check the igniter with an ohmmeter.

Mar 23, 2011 | Amana Ovens

1 Answer

Bottom element is not heating to temp an shuts off during heat up - without error code showing in the display. IE. - Press Bake, 350 degrees defaults on screen; Press Start. YOu hear the Click as it...


Hello & Welcome to FixYa

This indicates an open/shorted oven temperature sensor and to solve this problem the sensor needs replacement. If you wan to be sure before replacing the sensor then you can test it with a voltmeter for around 1100ohms....if it reads more then this then it needs replacement however, if the reading is around or less then 1100ohms then it is the control board that needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.


Kevin

Mar 05, 2011 | GE JTP15 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

I have just installed a Maytag built-in double oven to replace my old one (still working.) I shut off circuit breaker and reconnected wiring. The Control Panel and indicators on the digital readout all...


How many active terminals are there at the main terminal block in the new oven. Is this a single or 2 phase supply. Have you connected the active supply to all active terminals. If only half of the oven is working it sounds like it could be a problem at the terminal block. If so, you need to put a loop or bridge wire to the 2nd active terminal.
If all this was done correctly when connected the only other thing it could be is the electronic clock needs to be set to manual mode for the oven to work correctly.

Feb 26, 2011 | Maytag CWE5800A Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

When set to bake eg: 350 degrees the audio alarm will indicate it's reached temp but the oven is 50- 75 degrees lower. Must wait another 15 min for it to reach the proper temp. Have tried to adjust the off...


If you are monitoring the oven temperature with an analog style thermometer you may actually be ok, but seeing the thermometers slow reaction time.
Some newer ovens actually do pre-heat beep prior to reaching temp in an effort to conserve eelectricity.
A good home test is to try your oven at several different temps to see if there is any variation in internal temperature. Try it one day on 300, the next at 375 and another day at 450. Give your analog style thermometer time to catch up (usually just about 15 min) and leave it on for a half an hour to see if the temp maintains.
Also Beware of aluminum foil AND THE NEW OVEN LINER MATS as they can alter oven performance bay absorbing and blocking the ovens natural heat radiation and convection air flow currents that happen in all ovens, not just convection models.
Another interesting fact is that older ovens used a thermostat in them that operated much like your thermometer and was very slow to react making the oven typically about 100 degrees hotter than where the customer set it. This was just a fact of life before the advent of electronic temperature management and became noticeable when people began trying to bake older "hand me down" recipes in the newer ovens with less than stellar results.
You can mimic the older oven performance by preheating the oven about a hundred degrees higher than called for and after it reaches temp, re-set it to the correct temperature and put the items in right away.
If you find your temperatures fluctuating ask your servicer to replace first the temp sensor and as a last resort the control board as this part is usually pretty expensive.
Good Luck with this!

Jun 14, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

My oven is burning my baked goods, but shows the right temp with a thermometer. Do I have to turn the dial to broil and then back to the desired temp? Even if the rack is in the middle, everything burns....


If it is convection bake you have to turn the temp down (25 degrees or so) that is listed in the recipe.

The broil setting is not used to bake because it operates differently from the bake setting. So, don't go to the broil setting at all.
The element for bake is under the floor of the oven. You have not indicated whether it is gas or electric, but both of these can have issues with the burner or element.

If you are baking on the correct setting and the oven is heating from the bottom, not the top, this can be caused by hot spots that are created by elements/burners.

to check, look under the floor of the oven. Turn the bake heat up to high and see if the flame is uneven. For an electric oven, the color of the element should be evenly red, no brown spots.

If you are using an oven thermometer, move the thermometer to the spot in the oven that seems to be burning things the most.

Nov 27, 2009 | Kenmore Ovens

1 Answer

Hi. I have a ge convection oven(JCTP17) that has been working great until recently. I bought a Taylor oven thermometer model number (503) To check othe oven temps to see how accurate the oven is. I do a...


The Taylor oven thermometer you bought is decent at best. It is most likely the sensor inside the oven. Has your clock displayed any fault codes? F, followed by a number? Changing the sensor will probably correct the problem.

Aug 19, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

Kenmore oven lower element sporadically heating.


When the food you're baking is done on top but not on the bottom--or when baking just takes far too long to finish--the bake element may be burned out.

You may get fooled into thinking it's working, because the oven is hot inside. But many electric ovens use the broil element, too, during the preheat and bake cycles. So the food may be getting heated only by the broil element, which causes poor baking results.

If the bake element is burned out, replacing it should solve the problem. Otherwise, you need to further troubleshoot the oven's electrical system to locate the defective wire or component.

May 27, 2009 | Ovens

3 Answers

Whirlpool built-in single oven AKZ451/IX/01


If this is an older oven, check to see if it has a control knob or switch labeled "manual and "hold". Make sure it's set for manual. The hold setting maintains temp at about 140 degrees.
If not the case, is this gas or electric?

Nov 11, 2007 | Ovens

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