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Have a Rite Boiler Model No. 325 Serial No. 8419237 has dual draft with a balanacing damper and forced air exhauste. Problem: gas pressure is correct, but low fire first 2 burnrers fire but the other 12 does not. So i have gast going out to exhaust email me at: sj.jstech.choi@gmail.com

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If it has only one ignition source then it sounds like a crossover is plugged or maybe one of the burners is not set correctly.

If it has multiple ignitors then I would suggest that a circuit board or relays are faulty.

Either way I would be very careful. If I remember right this is a big commercial steam boiler with 2 inch gas lines. That's a lot of gas.

Posted on Jun 17, 2008

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Year model by serial number


So.........it's a GSW 50 gallon which you either bought in Canada or smuggled in.
Even if you have a model with a shutter damper without a fan this is NOT a Power Venter and will need standard through roof flue pipe/chimney to establish draft and vent CO and exhaust gases atmospherically AKA Natural Draft. It will NOT vent sidewall without a fan induced draft

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1 Answer

Automatic Damper


If the damper is buzzing i may be that the moex plug is not properly engaged at the plug and there is sone current loss through the low voltage wiring. If it is a field controls damper it is not uncommon for it to buzz when the plug is connected but ajar. Some times the buzzing is coming from a loose sheet metal screw that is vibrating when the damper is opening or if there are not at least three screws in every section of the smoke pipe if it is a single wall pipe, if you have B vent pipe check to be sure that the sections are connected securely. (they should be @ about 60 degrees apart between screws) and that could cause some buzzing when the damper is opening or closing.
As far as leaving it manually open you will loose heat up the chimney but the boiler will still operate with the damper manually open just not as fuel efficiently. Also check the jacket screws and draft hood screws sometimes they can drive you nuts over a loose screw.
It also could be that the motor is on the way out and you would have to replace it.
http://www.weil-mclain.com/en/assets/pdf/550142779_1212_CGaBoilerManual.pdf
Here is a link to the PDF file for that model page 48 will give you some information about the damper.
The boiler will not fire if the damper doesn't open (if it does fire with the damper closed shut it down and call a professional) if you want to check for loose screws it may help you out some. But you may leave it manually open all the time in the short term if it does fail but don't leave it open too long or your gas bill will start to pick your pocket.
Good luck I hope it was some help and look over the link to the equipment it may be helpfull

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1 Answer

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Check the induced draft pressure switch's tubing that connects it to the induced drat assembly, the barbed port that the tubing connects to gets clogged requiring reaming annually or this will happen, if this does not work replace the switch, make sure to clear the port.

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1 Answer

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If it's a flue damper, which I think you are talking about. You will see what looks like the tip of a 1/4" slotted(flat head) screw driver. That is the indicator if open or closed. It should be paralel with the direction of flue pipe. If it's not nearly exect unit will shut down. turn t'stat off or if that's not an option, turn temp down below room temp. wait a few min, turn t'stat on or above room temp and go to boiler as fast as possible.
See if damper is opening and stopping short of opening completely.
You may have built up soot and/or debris in flue causing it not to open all the way.
Please give full model # and do not force open. You may have dectectors that are picking up vapor,-gas probs.You mayl have to do a draft test. Better to be cold, than dead. Sorry for short explination

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1 Answer

On opening the hot water tap the boiler fires up and lights but when it reaches 50 centigrade the light goes out and the water goes cold...why?


few things to check since you really dony say what you have far as brand model size age this all helps alot but things to check are thermocouple, limit switch,high pressure switch, exhaust draft motor

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1 Answer

I have a Rinnae gas log fire that keeps swithing off when lighting. Pilot light a gas runs fine fan kicks in the it shuts down as if its out of gas. Had it properly cleaned and a gas man look at it. It...


There is no information on the model number so I'm going to answer this question assuming you have a high efficiency forced draft fireplace.
With fan-forced draft, it is crucial that the inlet and outlet pipes are free and clear.......no obstructions. If the inlet has an obstruction, it can prevent operation when the glass is in place and allow operation with the glass out. There is most likely a pressure switch in the electrical circuit that will detect proper pressure (ensuring proper intake & exhaust) that will prevent operation if proper pressure is not detected. It is rare for the switch to fail; however, it is common to find kinks, cracks, and/or moisture in the air sensing lines........check them kink, cracks, and obstructions.

I hope you find this information to be very helpful to you as a solid jumping off point moving forward.

Let me know if I can be of further assistance to you.
Good Luck in your endeavor! :-)

Please leave a rating. :-)

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1 Answer

Cold air from outside enters the kitchen through the down draft vent.


its would be best to install a damper
whether auto matic
or manuely operated
this is a common problem for the down draft
ive seen some people install things similar
to dryer vent louvers,
but check you exhaust area and still if you can block direct draft
but dont block it so that it cannot exhaust properly

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