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Have a Rite Boiler Model No. 325 Serial No. 8419237 has dual draft with a balanacing damper and forced air exhauste. Problem: gas pressure is correct, but low fire first 2 burnrers fire but the other 12 does not. So i have gast going out to exhaust email me at:

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If it has only one ignition source then it sounds like a crossover is plugged or maybe one of the burners is not set correctly.

If it has multiple ignitors then I would suggest that a circuit board or relays are faulty.

Either way I would be very careful. If I remember right this is a big commercial steam boiler with 2 inch gas lines. That's a lot of gas.

Posted on Jun 17, 2008


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Year model by serial number's a GSW 50 gallon which you either bought in Canada or smuggled in.
Even if you have a model with a shutter damper without a fan this is NOT a Power Venter and will need standard through roof flue pipe/chimney to establish draft and vent CO and exhaust gases atmospherically AKA Natural Draft. It will NOT vent sidewall without a fan induced draft

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If the damper is buzzing i may be that the moex plug is not properly engaged at the plug and there is sone current loss through the low voltage wiring. If it is a field controls damper it is not uncommon for it to buzz when the plug is connected but ajar. Some times the buzzing is coming from a loose sheet metal screw that is vibrating when the damper is opening or if there are not at least three screws in every section of the smoke pipe if it is a single wall pipe, if you have B vent pipe check to be sure that the sections are connected securely. (they should be @ about 60 degrees apart between screws) and that could cause some buzzing when the damper is opening or closing.
As far as leaving it manually open you will loose heat up the chimney but the boiler will still operate with the damper manually open just not as fuel efficiently. Also check the jacket screws and draft hood screws sometimes they can drive you nuts over a loose screw.
It also could be that the motor is on the way out and you would have to replace it.
Here is a link to the PDF file for that model page 48 will give you some information about the damper.
The boiler will not fire if the damper doesn't open (if it does fire with the damper closed shut it down and call a professional) if you want to check for loose screws it may help you out some. But you may leave it manually open all the time in the short term if it does fail but don't leave it open too long or your gas bill will start to pick your pocket.
Good luck I hope it was some help and look over the link to the equipment it may be helpfull

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If it's a flue damper, which I think you are talking about. You will see what looks like the tip of a 1/4" slotted(flat head) screw driver. That is the indicator if open or closed. It should be paralel with the direction of flue pipe. If it's not nearly exect unit will shut down. turn t'stat off or if that's not an option, turn temp down below room temp. wait a few min, turn t'stat on or above room temp and go to boiler as fast as possible.
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You may have built up soot and/or debris in flue causing it not to open all the way.
Please give full model # and do not force open. You may have dectectors that are picking up vapor,-gas probs.You mayl have to do a draft test. Better to be cold, than dead. Sorry for short explination

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1 Answer

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its would be best to install a damper
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ive seen some people install things similar
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