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Hi I have a Rinnai 1004. I asked a question before about clipping the temp gauge and adding a length of speaker wire in, so that it would get a more accurate 'room' temp reading. The reason for this is that I can't get to the controls to manually change the temp. I have a few other thoughts and want to know if anyone could add to the ideas: 1. Could I add that speaker wire to the 'control unit' and mount that in a more convienient place?? 2. Would a 'plug in' thermostat work?? Something that regulates the actual power to the unit. I think it basically stops power when it's warm enough and turns it on when it cools. -since there's no pilot light, this should work right?? Thanks for any help and adivce!

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  • doug_e_fr951 Nov 15, 2010

    Hi,
    Thank you for the ideas and considerations.

    I think I will hold off on 'extending' the controls for the moment. I'm hoping that the "plug-in" thermostat will work.

    I plan to turn the unit controls so that it will produce max (or close to max) heat. And then use a regular extension cord to plug the heater into thishttp://tinyurl.com/2ca48tc Is there any reason this shouldn't work??

    I thought that maybe turning it on and off might not be good for the heater, but I guess that's what the onboard thermostat does anyway.

    2 considerations I do have...

    1. The heater Blows hot air until the room is warm enough then stops...not like a car heater where the actual air temp is controllable at constant temp (unless I'm mistaken about this).

    2. I don't think operation should be affected because there's no pilot light and it's electronically ignited each time too.

    So I'm thinking this should work, unless there's something else that I'm not seeing.

    Thanks for your input!

  • doug_e_fr951 Nov 16, 2010

    Before I get into moving the control panel. I plan to turn the unit controls on the heater so that it will produce max (or close to max) heat. And then use a regular extension cord to plug the heater into this
    http://tinyurl.com/2ca48tc

    Is there any reason this shouldn't work?? I thought that maybe turning it on and off might not be good for the heater, but I guess that's what the onboard thermostat does anyway. 2 considerations I hope make this possible...
    1. The heater Blows hot air until the room is warm enough then stops...not like a car heater where the actual air temp is controllable at constant temp (unless I'm mistaken about this).
    2. I don't think operation should be affected because there's no pilot light and it's electronically ignited each time too.

    So I'm thinking this should work, unless there's something else that I'm not seeing.

    Thanks for any input!

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I'm sorry. the thermostat is not in the "Temp gauge" It is inside the unit. As well, Modifying this unit can make it unsafe. As well, if one were to use wire to extend the control unit, you would want to use thermostat wire.

However this would not read the temperature where you put the control unit.

You cannot hook a wall thermostat, like one for central heat to it because this unit uses a thermistor which is completely different then how wall thermostats work.

The unit does not just shut off the power. It opens and closes valves.

You would have to find the thermistor and lengthen the wires on it and put the thermistor where you are planning to take the heat reading.

Again I highly suggest against this because it can possibly make the unit unsafe. The manufacturer lists units that are able to have a remote thermostat attached. This model is one that does not have that option available.

My suggestion to get more even heat in the room would be to use a fan to circulate the warm air throughout the room.

Posted on Nov 17, 2010

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That sounds quite plausible...and pretty good idea.

If I'm right it sounds like you simply would like to add a glorified "extension cord" to the on-board controls and thermostat to make them usable from a remote location. That could work, can't see why not. It definitely would make for a more accurate temperature reading rather than having the temperature element collecting from a mere few inches of the units' output vents.

If running it more than 30 ft cord length though, you may need to go up in wire gauge or double up on what you have if you don't have larger than about 12-10 gauge.

The only other consideration I can think of is that after you dismantle the control and temperature assembly, that when you reinstall it elsewhere that the temperature element should be oriented in the same position as it was when mounted inside the A/C chassis, i.e.; not tipped or otherwise moved from a horizontal or vertical position.

Posted on Nov 11, 2010

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