Question about Bosch 24 in. SHU53 Built-in Dishwasher

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Hi, My dishwasher showed a code F on the display...do not know what that mean and than, it went to the 1H, there is no wather in the dishwasher but i can ear the pump or some motor running but it stays in that mode without doing anything else...It looks like it want to start something. Thanks

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  • daniel_major Nov 12, 2010

    Hi,



    Thank's for the help.



    Here is what hapenned,



    I pressed both buttons at the same time and the code CL appeared.



    I tried pressing twice..nothing had changed and I still have the CL code.



    Just for curiosity, I did put in around 2 gallons of water in the dishwater...and the pump did the job and emptied the dishwasher.



    Any other suggestion before I start dismantling the thing?



    Thanks and have a great evening



    Dan

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F is fill fault to much or not enough water or water in the sump white plastic base the f code will not go away until you solve the problem when the F code shows up the drain motor will run all of the time. If if you want to try fixing it yourself you need to do a test on your dishwasher machine.

To start testing, press both ?SCRUB WASH? and ?DELICATE/ECONO? buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g.?6? = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected
2 = Heating fault
8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test).

To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

Posted on Nov 11, 2010

  • Sudeep Chatterjee
    Sudeep Chatterjee Nov 12, 2010

    The 1H stands for one hours and is actually the estimated time the unit took to complete it's previous cycle based on data to the control gathered and stored in memory...it is not "actual" time, it never is on Bosch. there are far too many variables to be "actual" time and since it only goes to two hours in the display, that's what is displayed even if it runs for four hours.

    To repair your unit It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board. This will be one of the pins from the heater relay, hence the unit sit`s at 1H ( because it can`t heat to advance or until canceled ) trying to heat the water.

    **Further to this, if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control and I don`t pretend to speak on there behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)**

    **Please disconnect the power before attempting any service to the dishwasher. If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau, to service your machine.**

    Hope this answer`s your question's, let me know if I can assist you further. Thank`s for visiting "fixya" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness to you and leave a testimony if you're satisfied.

  • Sudeep Chatterjee
    Sudeep Chatterjee Nov 12, 2010

    The
    wash cycle has exceeded one hour without a temperature increase of the
    water during its last run and therefore the control "thinks" something is wrong. Whether
    there is or isn't remains to be seen. Likely if you let the unit operate
    from that point of displaying "1H" it will run and run for several
    hours and not heat the water. You can confirm this by pulling out the
    control and visually inspecting the printed circuit side of the control.
    Look for a burnt solder on the opposite side of the largest relay (
    black or orange rectangular box ). That will confirm the heater relay is
    faulty and the control either needs to be replaced or repaired if you
    are capable of re soldering the board.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Peace Friend,
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You said,you have a Maytag Dishwasher MDB6601AWW. It went through a normal wash and you loaded it and it now will not start. It flashes 1H, 2H, up to 9H. It has flashed 81.

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If not only a trained laundry tech can make the electronic diagnoses.
Like we used to be able to fix my own cars, but not today they need diagnostic equipment!


How old is the washer?

If the appliance is 10 years old or more you it may not be advisable to put good money into bad!
New appliances are so much more efficient today that they can save you a lot of money in energy!!!!
Water,Electric and detergent! And put money back in your pocket!
The new appliance will pay for itself in only a few years!


You will be fine
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PLEASE GIVE ME A GOOD RATING HERE AT FIXYA.COM BEFORE YOU SIGN OFF.

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