I have ase1052 and I let the pos. And neg Leads touch as I disconnected from the battery and now the charger will do nothing,not even a hum from the transformer . I have 123 volts coming in to the slide switch but no meter reading. I have continuity to one of the dual rectifiers and one is open. Am I on the right track?I also jumped the circuit breaker to no avail. I got 23 years from my last Schumacher without a doubt a superb quality product. Thanks so much...............Aubrey

They call it limp mode first try to disconnect your battery and push the pos and neg leads together for 10 sec to reset the ecu then connect battery leads back on if it still do the same you have to let them reset it at a garage

If all wiring is factory then check batteries under load. If all good then test motor. With rear wheels off the ground, disconnect the main pos and neg wires from the batteries. Then disconnect the four wires from the motor. You can use a voltmeter to measure the value of the two coils of the motor. Measure between A1 and A2 then S1 and S2 ( sometimes F1 and F2) Should get 1 or 2 ohms. If that good then jumper A1 to F1, connect A2 to 12 volts and F2 to 12 volts, one neg and the other pos. You will get a spark but the motor should start turning if good.

If the battery is good you will need to follow flow. Test light is the easiest to use. First hook light to ground and touch pos terminal,lights good next touch pos battery cable end, lights good. Next follow pos cable to starter pos terminal,lights good. Next hook test light to bat pos teminal,touch neg terminal,lights good. Then touch engine block, lights good ground. Next move test light clamp back to ground/neg side and touch alt pos terminal,lights good.if all that tests good, if all good move inside and check for power at ign switch pos term if at any time you dont find power you have wiring issue that needs to be addressed. Let me know what you find. Russ

Please shed some light. What tyoe of vehicle are we referring to?

If the red light is flashing rapidly it means that your charger has determined that your battery pack is in need of replacement and a safety circuit will not allow it to be charged. You may have an actual fault in the pack OR it may just mean that you have allowed the pack to discharge below the manufacturer's recommendations and the safety circuit has been fooled into thinking that the pack is defective. You need to decide which scenario is more likely correct. Using a DC voltmeter, determine if the battery pack has any voltage at all and which connections are positive and negative. If there is zero voltage, then you probably should go shopping and send your current battery to a recycler. If the battery pack does show some voltage, that is a good sign. TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK! You can attempt to partially charge the battery pack (while not in the charger and not in the tool) by using test leads to connect it pos-to-pos and neg-to-neg to a fully charged battery of similar voltage/amperage. Only connect them together for a couple of minutes. Remove the leads and test with the DC voltmeter again to see if voltage in the questionable battery pack has increased by more than a volt or two. If so, it is still taking a charge. Move it back to its charger to see if there is now sufficient voltage to not trigger the safety circuit and allow it to charge normally. Wear eye protection. Don't cross leads. Don't try this on an obviously damaged battery or one that feels hot.

how did you disconnect the battery, pos first then neg ? or neg first then pos ? try starting it and after started, hold your rpm at 1500, for about two minutes, then if still running, drive it to get to.speeds of 40 for about 15 minutes, this is to relearn if not, disconnect your battery, take the pos and neg cable and touch them together and hold for about a minute, then Connect them back, neg.first.then pos, then follow steps above to.relearn.

It's possible you may have a poor connection from your car to your car battery. Check to make sure both battery terminals are on your battery tight. Tighten them if necessary, then try again. If either one was loose, that should fix the problem. Then there may be nothing wrong with your battery charger.

turn on a/c does the fan turn on? unplug fan connection mesure voltage comming to the fan it should be 12+ volts. If not it is a fuse or relay. Get some wire that is long enough to reach the battery to the fan plug (have a buddy help) place the 2 wires on the battery connecters 1 pos 1 neg then take the other ends of the wires and touch the wires to the 2 leads in the fan connection. neg wire to the black wire. pos wire to the red. if fan does not come on then the motor is bad. do not worry about touching the battery you will NOT get shocked

just use a ziner diod neg leg of ziner sold to positive of charging connector and positive of ziner to battery connector plus ur problem will be solved

u can find ziner diod in old mobile like 1100 , 3300, 3310, 6600 etc.

Hello,

If battery is out of the vehicle, connect positive lead to positive terminal and negative lead to negative terminal.

If battery is in the vehicle, the proper way to connect leads depends on if it's a negative-grounded or a positive-grounded vehicle.

Here is a link to the manual for this charger.
Click where it says "Get This manual" (it's free).

Scroll down to pages 4 and 5 and it give detailed instructions on the proper way to connect leads and a lot more. It's a good manual to keep for future use.

I hope this helps.

http://powertool.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/schumacher/se520ma_se5212a_se1275a.html