Question about Viking Designer DDRB364SS Stainless Steel Refrigerator

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I have a viking DDRB36RSS all refrigerator. there is ice built up on the back wall and the door will not seal. i replaced the door seal but it still will not seal and there seems to be no air moving inside.

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  • damonhollis1 Nov 11, 2010

    the door hinge isnt corroded away but it is rusted. i oiled it and it seems to work fine but what does that have to do with the ice on the back wall. i also noticed that the long cyclinder shaped fan isnt working thats above the small radiator on the back wall thats also iced up. is there any checks i need to be doing?

  • damonhollis1 Nov 18, 2010

    need additional help diagnosing my viking refrigerator.

  • damonhollis1 Nov 19, 2010

    i know nothing about refrigerators. where would i find these item you are talking about to check. if you have any diagrams please email them to damonhollis1@yahoo.com.

  • damonhollis1 Nov 22, 2010

    first, this is not a freezer. its a viking all refrigerator. no freezing takes place in this unit. i have a viking all freezer thats right next to the frig but they are both seperate units. if pics will make this easier please leave an email address so that i may send you pics of the unit and the problem. because your reply about closing the door as tight as possibe does not tell me much on how to fix the problem. i dont know if there is a fan that creates vacuum when the door closes but my freezer seems to work that way and my frig use to. so any help with a viking all refrig would be really helpful. thanx in advance. my email address is nextlevelcycles@yahoo.com

  • damonhollis1 Dec 02, 2010

    Maybe this will help, I missed a number in the model number, it a Viking DDRB364RSS. There is no thermostat attached to the coil, however there looks like a sensor attached to the cover that covers the coil. Would that be the thermostat? This is an all refrigerator. There is no freezer within this unit. So the problem is that the refrigerator is building up ice on the coil, the tubular shaped fan above the coil isn't working, the thermostat looking device attached to the cover has no continuity and the door doesn't seal. Please remember this is a refrigerator only model with no freezer at all.

  • damonhollis1 Dec 02, 2010

    That sensor I was telling you about has no continuity when cold but does when hot. Hope this helps.

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4 Answers

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The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Posted on Nov 22, 2010

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I just found your post. After 10 days I would hope you have fixed this. So heres what to do if you are still fighting your fridge. Get a large cooler, you will need some dry ice approx 2 -3 lbs. Remove all the food, even the ice (dump the ice). put the food in the bottom of the cooler, lay a good layer of news paper over it all and put the dry ice on top. Next, pull the plug and removed all the shelves from the freezer. Look closely at the rear wall and figure out which panel you need to remove and how it comes out. Most are held in with small screws. Get the panel out, you may scratch some paint or bend the panel but its ok. Once you are in to the coil, get a hair drier and run it on the coil to defrost the ice build up. Be sure you clear the drain area also (must drain or you will have same problem again) Due to the amount of frost you may make a mess in the floor under the fridge once the pan over fills. (Look out for that). Now once the coil is clear, look for any thing out of place, You may not know much about freezers, but look for wires that are loose (not hooked up), look for a (klixon) this is a switch that clips on to the tubing at the top of the coil if it is not still clipped to the coil try and re-clip it on to the line. If the klixon is loose that is the problem and the fridge is fixed. If you do not find any thing wrong, or do not see any thing that is ok. Clearing the coil and drain may fix the problem. Put it all back together. But leave out the food for now, will last for days in the cooler. Put a plastic cup w/ water in the middle of the shelves. Plug it back up and see how well it works. Should freeze the water in 4 - 6 hours. If you have a temp gage or Plup thermometer. Put it on the shelf close to the cup. You freezer should get to around -5 and no frost build up. Run it for 1-2 days. If all is well you fixed it. Put it all back together.

Posted on Nov 21, 2010

  • John Fourteen Six Nov 22, 2010

    I see a your comment dated 10 days ago about the door, {the door hinge isnt corroded away but it is rusted. i oiled it and it seems to work fine but what does that have to do with the ice on the back wall. i also noticed that the long cyclinder shaped fan isnt working thats above the small radiator on the back wall thats also iced up. is there any checks i need to be doing?} The freezer door being open just a crack, lets in outside air that can cause the frost you are having the problem with. Plus You mention a fan not turning. That also causes frost build up, due to no air moving over the coil. I was thinking that you may have had a defrost problem, get that door closed as tight as it can no leaks.

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You refrigerator is not defrosting. Check the defrost timer/control board, defrost heater (in freezer)

and the thermo switch with a multimeter and check for continuity. Replace the part that is not receiving power. Unplug the machine and let the ice melt overnight with the door open. Check the fan and see if it's working to move the air, if not then replace the fan.

Posted on Nov 19, 2010

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Check the lower door hinge as they corrode away around the pivot point allowing the door to stay open ,if it is then take it off and to a workshop and get then to braze a piece of metal into the lower door hinge so its then secure .this is better than buying a new fridge just for this weak point

Posted on Nov 11, 2010

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http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/

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