#frs26znhwo refrigirator, does not cool at low temp, shuts off, turn temp control all the way off and back to a high setting and it comes on and cools like it should but when it reaches setting it shuts down again.
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Re: #frs26znhwo refrigirator, does not cool at low temp,...
Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start. Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. The relay is a small usually black cube shaped electrical part plugged into the compressor or wired to it nearby. It may appear burnt or rattle when shaken if it's bad. The two connections should show continuity with an amp meter.
The cold control is probably the problem if it's not the compressor kicking off.
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If you have a switch that can manually turn on the fan, try it to verify the fan works. This is what I think is happening. The normal operation should be thermostat calls for heat, inducer fan comes on, pressure switch closes, igniter glows, main burner ignites and then in 30 or so seconds the fan comes on and stays on until the thermostat is satisfied. Once the thermostat is satisfied the burner shuts off and the fan runs for approx 120 seconds then shuts off. I think the control board that automatically turns your fan on is faulty. On most modern furnaces if the auto fan control fails and the furnace gets to hot and limits, when the limit opens and shuts off the burner it also energizes the fan motor to cool the heat exchanger.
Your vehicle cooling fan's are controlled by three relay's , couple of fuse's an the PCM - engine computer . The engine coolant temp. sensor is a input to the PCM , when engine temp get's to 212 the PCM will turn on the cooling fans in low speed . Checking to see what the actual temp is with a scan tool an a infrared thermometer at the thermostat housing ,an looking up the specification's in a service repair manual is how to diagnose . Not guessing an replacing parts . Plus learning how the cooling fan's work . Relay Driven Dual Cooling Fan Diagnostics Reading factory service info as to how they work also would be a good idea .
Cooling Fan Control - Two Fan System
The engine cooling fan system consists of 2 puller type electrical cooling fans and 3 fan relays. The relays are arranged in a series parallel (S/P) configuration that allows the engine control module (ECM) to operate both fans together at low or high speeds. The cooling fans and fan relays receive battery positive voltage from the underhood fuse block. The ground path is provided at G104.
During low speed operation, the ECM supplies the ground path for the low speed fan relay through the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the low speed fan relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and supplies battery positive voltage from the low fan fuse through the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the left cooling fan. The ground path for the left cooling fan is through the cooling fan S/P relay and the right cooling fan. The result is a series circuit with both fans running at low speed.
During high speed operation the ECM supplies the ground path for the low speed fan relay through the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit. After a 3 second delay, the ECM supplies a ground path for the high speed fan relay and the cooling fan S/P relay through the high speed cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the cooling fan S/P relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and provides a ground path for the left cooling fan. At the same time, the high speed fan relay coil is energized closing the relay contacts, and provides battery positive voltage from the high fan fuse on the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit, to the right cooling fan. During high speed fan operation, both engine cooling fans have their own ground path. The result is a parallel circuit with both fans running at high speed.
The ECM commands the low speed cooling fans ON under the following conditions:
• Engine coolant temperature exceeds approximately 94.5°C (202°F).
• A/C refrigerant pressure exceeds 1447 kPa (210 psi).
• After the vehicle is shut OFF, if the engine coolant temperature at key-off is greater than 101°C (214°F), the low speed fans will run for a minimum of 60 seconds. After 60 seconds, if the coolant temperature drops below 101°C (214°F), the fans will shut OFF. The fans will automatically shut OFF after 3 minutes, regardless of coolant temperature.
The ECM commands the high speed fans ON under the following conditions:
• Engine coolant temperature exceeds approximately 104.25°C (220°F).
• A/C refrigerant pressure exceeds approximately 1824 kPa (265 psi).
• When certain DTCs set
At idle and very low vehicle speeds the cooling fans are only allowed to increase in speed, if required. This ensures idle stability by preventing the fans from cycling between high and low speed.
Not likely, but Is Hot water flowing to heater coil in back? How hot is "very hot" Is it a refrigerant line? If a refrigirant line, Very Hot means it is hot gas from the compressor that "should be going to the condenser coil usually in front of the radiator. It's almost impossible for that Hot refrigerant gas to go to the cooling coil in the back unless you had some repairs done and they weren't certified. My guess is the radiator hot water is not being controlled properly, due to bad valve or control system components.
The 13HPX is a Heat Pump. It has a control board in the outside unit that will lock out after a few trips from one of the controls, such as a low or high pressure switch tripping. Turning the power off is making this board reset. Take the door off next time. to the outside unit and look at the lights on the control board. There should a sticker on the inside the door that you have to remove that describes why the unit is hard locking out according to the light configuration.
Sounds like a sticking relay. You can check the stat simply by remove the faceplate. If fan still runs with tstat cover off its not the stat. Not sure is your blower has a separate relay or if relay is mounted on control board. This can be bypassed with a new relay if you are willing. Good luck!!
have you checked the filter ? do you have the temp set to low? are you trying to cool to big an area? shut it down again and let it thaw out. set the stat to mid range and trun it back on. close all unused rooms. when the unit cycles of and its still not cool enough turn the tstat down unilt it comes back on and leave it there.. unil the rom temp reaches 72-74 degree. thats the best set point .. you might be about to get it down to 70. but my bet is 1 dirty filter. and set temp to low.
There is an electrically activated air dampener in the upper left back side of the refrigerator section which most likely has broken (in the open position), allowing cold air from the freezer to continue to enter the fresh foods section. Replace the dampener assembly.
Sounds like bad cold control. Replace it. I cannot see your repyl due to some tech issue w/ the site, so it may be a day or so before I can reply again. Please leave feedback for me if appropriate. Thanks