Question about Frigidaire Model: GLHS65EHSB

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We have a Frigidaire Side by Side refridgerator, Model No. GLHS65EHSB6 The problem is the fridge side was not cooling, the freezer side would reach it's lowest temperature of -6F & the fridge would display a flashing "4", then after a period of 8 to 10 hours, the freezer would thaw out. When the fridge is turned off, unplugged & then restarted, the freezer would start cooling again & then the flashing "4" would appear again. What are the possible reasons & remedies for these problems? Please advise at the earliest. Many thanks in advance.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

josh1856
  • 105 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire Sid eby Side

sounds like a "performance problem" try pressing and holding the reset button for 3 seconds.

Posted on Jan 27, 2008

  • 24 Answers

SOURCE: samsung fridge freezer model number

Hi just wondering if you figured out the problem with your Samsung fridge yet.
It is definately a problem with the defrost part of the fridge. After approximately 4 to 10 hours dependent on many different factors it enters into defrost mode to get rid of any excess ice in both the fridge and the freezer. During the defrost stage the compressor will not run. If any fault occurs during the defrost stage the fridge will not restart unless you turn it off and back on again which restes the pcb and takes it out of defrost mode and the timer starts again.
Please let me know how you went with it.

Posted on Oct 26, 2008

abhishek33
  • 1239 Answers

SOURCE: Fridge stopped working, freezer still works

HI
If the compressor doesn't run, it is likely that the defrost timer is malfunctioning. This part is located near the compressor. To test the defrost timer:

Step 1: 
Unplug the refrigerator.

Step 2: 
Disconnect the wires from the timer and timer motor. Remove the timer from its brackets by backing out two retaining screws.

Step 3: 
Test the defrost timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Clip one probe of the VOM to each defrost timer -- not motor -- wire, and turn the timer control screw shaft until it clicks. If the defrost timer is functioning, the meter will read zero. If the needle jumps, the defrost timer is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type.

Step 4: 
Connect the new defrost timer the same way the old one was connected.

To check the defrost timer motor, clip one probe of the VOM to each motor wire, setting the scale to RX100. If the meter reads between about 500 and 3,000 ohms, the motor is functioning properly. If the meter reads higher than 3,000 ohms, the timer motor is faulty. Replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new motor the same way the old one was connected.

Posted on Dec 07, 2008

peyton32034
  • 410 Answers

SOURCE: Frigidaire Model # FRS23R4A - Not cooling

wihtout replacing the relay there really isnt any way to tell if its the compressor or the relay. the relay is veyr inexpensive in comparison to the compressor usually less than 70 bucks. and the best part is you can replace it yourself as opposed to paying a service company. this is the part number 218721113 and it prices at 38 dollars thru  sears.com.
once you replace the part if the compressor starts you should be ok. if it doesnt start then you will need to call a service company to replae the compressor or look at replaing the refrig. if the unit is less than 5 years old it may be under warranty for the compressor so check into that first. if I can be of further assistance dont hesitate to ask. thanks Peyton

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

farfield
  • 462 Answers

SOURCE: Problems with Frigidaire Refrigerator not cooling

In turning it off you may have only closed the air damper. Set it to 1/2 way.
If ice or frost in the air damper area on refrigerator side you may not be defrosting the freezer coil.

Inspect from bottom looking up with a mirror and flashlight. You should have no Ice buildup frost that is even and white is normal. Feel Check the back wall mid way down to 1/4 way to bottom. Push on the wall slightly. Crunching like frost or snow behind wall is not normal. I suspect non defrosting here.
Next eliminate the inside fan motor. It has to run to push air all over the freezer and refrigerator. If this fan doesn't run the results will be only the area with the refrigeration evaporator coil will cool and it may get too cold and resemble a non defrosting situation where the air is not able to circulate because of frost build up.

Next eliminate the Ice maker and light as a source of heat. Unscrew and unplug them
.
Next eliminate the door gaskets from not sealing. A piece of paper set tween the door and frame and pulled across it and you feel resistance all the way and the gaskets are smooth and not warped they are OK

Next inspect the condenser fan and coil by the compressor underneath. A dirty coil here will cause diminished heat removal and possible for a partial cooling of some of the freezer.

Only after inspecting all these items and determining they are OK should you proceed with refrigerant checking. Also a person with out the ability to measure the actual amount of refrigerant being put in should be shown the door. Even with topping off (adding some) refrigerant I use a scale to determine that I do not put in too much. So if you have a friend that does this and no way to tell how much is too much.... well with all due respect your getting what you pay for.

If this helps you understand your problem and need more information please post back, I will follow up. If it helped you determine your trouble please rate me as high as you can. Thank You for using fixya and good luck.
.

Posted on Mar 22, 2009

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