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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: marco gas firplace
I have a Model 792864B. Before you attempt to light the pilot light - make sure that any wall control switch or remote control for the fireplace is in the off position. Locate the gas supply line. There should be a gas supply valve to turn on the gas supply. The valve is usually painted a different color than the supply line like blue, green or yellow. Open the valve by pivoting the handle to be parallel to the gas line, usually counter-clockwise. When it is closed it is at a 90 degree angle from the supply line. Locate the pilot light assembly - this is the pilot light. There should also be a red or black ignitor button and a black or green valve control knob with the words "on" "off" and "pilot" on it. It may be located inside a black box, mine is marked heatolator, that has a lift off top. Lift off the top of the box. Push in the valve control knob and turn it until the word "pilot" is in line with the arrow (my arrow is red) or indicator line. While pressing and holding in the valve control knob - it presses in about 1/4", press the red or black ignitor button repeatedly (once per second) until the pilot ignites. Once the pilot is lit, continue to hold the valve knob in for about 30 seconds and then slowly release. The pilot should remain lit. If it remains lit, press in and turn the valve control knob to the "on" position. The on/off wall or remote control switch should now light your fireplace. If the pilot doesn't ignite, turn off gas supply valve, wait about 5 minutes and try it again.
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
SOURCE: Heatilator Pilot Issue
Any pilot adjustment would be under a large screw with a flat blade slot in it. There would be a smalled flat blade screw under it. Warning: Too small of a flame and your safety device won't work.
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Posted on Feb 09, 2009
SOURCE: Pilot light won't stay lit
Look for dust and lint. Look for them in places where gas should be freely flowing. I had a similar problem with an Empire Corcho wall-mounted propane ceramic catalyst heater. First it was the pilot light, then the #2 ceramic mantle. After horsing around with the gas lines and pressure regulators and trying to re-aim the pilot, it all turned out to be dust and lint in the gas passages. A little dust bunny in the brass pilot tube gave me a pilot light the shape and color of a banana. One puff of compressed air, and I got back my razor-sharp pilot. And some dust in the chimney of the #2 burner kept it burning blue/yellow and blistering paint off the upper surfaces of the heater. A bit of cleaning with a shop-vac put that right. "Passive" heaters are very much prone to this sort of problem because they rely on convection currents (i.e. LOW velocity) to get the job done. Convection currents are notorious dust collectors, as in COBWEB CITY.
Posted on Feb 28, 2009
SOURCE: Gas wall heater won't light
You need to bled the line longer and when you get lited hold down for a good minute.When the gas gave out ,there could trash in the line.I would take the line off and blow gas through it undtil you can smell it.
Posted on Mar 13, 2009
all pilots should have a thermocouple to maintain a flame at pilot its the sensor that sends the signal to valve to say theres a flame here i can stay open firstly try tightening thermocouple connection at valve then replace if didn't change a thing and if still playing up change valve this is my usual procedure for pilots and rarley have to change valves but it could be the valve
Posted on Nov 18, 2010
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