Fuse keeps blowing. Might need a power supply module?

There is an actuator motor located on the transfer case. It selects range; hi neutral and lo and engages the front differential. There is a second clutch actuator motor on the front differential that engages the front wheel hubs.

You will need to disconnect both motors to eliminate electronics. It could also be you have an abraided wire to either the transfer case or the front differential. If unplugging both actuators doesnt stop fuse blow, you will need to test for signal or power to ground shorts.

Free (with ads) schematics are available using the "carmin std" app.

What # fuse's J5 25amp , J4 25amp , M 30 15amp , M13 20amp M33 10amp . All these fuse's are power supply's for door modules and to the wiper / washer switch . The washer pump is controlled by the totally integrated power module . I suggest you google TIPM - dodge totally integrated power module . Chrysler , Dodge , Jeep all use this componet . Also watch youtube videos on finding a automotive electrical short . That's what you have a direct short to ground on those power supply circuits

Try unplugging the power control module. If the fuse still blows its wiring if it doesn't I would guess the power control module is bad.

There is a shot to ground in the ABS system ! If familiar with electrical trouble shoot , find a wiring diagram an test the B+ power circuit ! That fuse supply's power to the electronic brake control module , if no short on wire from fuse box to brake control module , the module has an internal problem .

you have a short most likely on the power supply but could be on the mainboard, inverter board, av/input board. The T-con board is fused and should blow its fuse before blowing the fuse on the power supply. I'm going with a faulty power supply, most likely a shorted Mosfet.

The parts on the Power Supply module will be to difficult to locate so the best thing is to replace the power supply board. The power supply is in stock at www.shopjimmy.com
The price is $83.96. Just enter your model number and follow the directions.

There is definately a shorted component that causes the fuse to blow. Nomaly the ceremic capacitors are the cause of the problem. Check to see if there is visiual dark or burnt ceremic caps with label sameting like this "SCK 083" near the fuse area and change it. Hope it helps,cheers.

Lower left of fuse panel, 20 amp, near flasher? My sources say "cluster warning lamps & electronic all wheel drive. Sound right?

If the fuse keeps blowing, that is an indication that something has failed and is drawing too much current. Most likely it could be a problem with the power supply, such as a shorted rectifier diode or voltage regulator. Another possibility could be a shorted audio output module. Unfortunately, you'll have to take it to a repair center to be serviced.

Please let me know if I can help you further.

Good luck!

- Jim

These are switch mode power supplies and very difficult to repair. If you don't find all the blown components, they just blow up again when you try it. If that model has a separate module for the supply, you can try and order a replacement, but they usually are too expensive.
What model is it? Maybe I have a junker I can take the supply from for you?