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Re: Basket on washer shakes
Try lifting the inner drum to check if there is any movement between the inner and outer drums, also turn the drum and listen for any grinding or scraping sound from the rear of the drum. Its possible that your bearings have gone out & need to be replaced. The job is far from easy.
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If it sounds like a freight train in spin cycle most likely it is your bearings. If it makes a clunking noise during the wash cycle you have a broken support. The best way to tell is to spin the basket by hand and listen for the noise. Check to see if the basket is making circles and not ovals. Pull back the rubber seal and look signs of the basket rubbing against the outer plastic tubs. If is either one of these it is cheaper to buy a new washer than to fix it. Fixing it involves rebuilding the machine. If it only makes the noise when it starts to drain you need to check your pump for foreign objects.
Thanks for using FixYa. If your washer is a front load washer then check these things if it is making noise--
bellows is a rubber sleeve that seals the suspended outer tub to the stationary
cabinet front at the tub opening. Its purpose is to provide a water tight
opening into the tub that can be sealed by the cabinet door, yet allow
flexibility for the oscillation of the tub during the wash and spin cycles. Outer
outer tub assembly is supported by two suspension springs and stabilized by two
air shock assemblies. A cement counter weight is mounted to the front of the
outer tub by screws. A counterweight is molded into the rear half of the outer
tub. These counterweights prevent excessive oscillation of the entire suspended
assembly during an unbalanced spin cycle. Spin
spin basket is constructed of stainless steel. The circumference of the basket
is perforated to allow water to flow through it as it revolves. A heavy steel
shaft is pressed into the spin basket support which is then bolted to the
basket. The spin basket assembly is entirely supported by two ball bearings
pressed into the rear of the outer tub. A large drive pulley is mounted to the
free end of the shaft that extends through the rear of the outer tub. There are
three plastic vanes mounted to the spin basket to aid in the washing action
during the wash cycle. The rotation of the spin basket provides both the
washing action during the wash cycle, and water extraction during the spin
High pitch "jet engine" noise--A certain
amount of motor whine is normal during the spin cycle.
Rattling and clanking noise--
• Foreign objects such as coins or safety pins may be in
drum or pump. Stop washer and check drum. If noise continues after washer is
restarted, objects may be in pump.
• Belt buckles and metal fasteners are hitting wash drum. To
prevent unnecessary noise and damage to drum, fasten fasteners and turn items
Squealing sound or hot rubber odor-- Washer is
overloaded. Do not overload washer. Stop washer and reduce load.
Thumping sound— Heavy wash loads may produce a
thumping sound. This is usually normal. If sound continues, washer is probably
out of balance. Stop washer and redistribute wash load.
• Washer is not resting firmly on floor. Move washer so it
rests firmly on floor. Adjust leveling legs. NOTE: Some shaking of the washer
is normal without moving across the floor. See INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for
• Shipping bolts and foam blocks have not been removed
during installation. See INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for removing shipping bolts
and foam blocks.
• Wash load unevenly distributed in drum. Stop washer and
rearrange wash load.
Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.
do you notice if it agitates? if it doesnt agitate it is just a simple coupling if it is making a humm noise its the motor if a LOUD rumble ONLY on spin cycle, its the basket drive assembly and the clutch.
its your basket drive or sometimes called brake spin tube also comes with new clutch, ,transmissions wouldn't make that noise in only beginning of spin. your on your way to being a repair tech good job
If the rear bearing is bad it will require the replacement of the entire rear tub shell. This is because the bearing is molded into the plastic and cannot be replaced separately (I know, its a stupid design). Sometimes additional damage can occur and the inner spin basket and front shell may also need replaced. In addition, what may seem like a bad rear bearing, might be a broken tub support on the spin basket. In a nutshell, you may have to replace both tub shells and spin basket at a minimum. With parts and labor the repairs could cost $600-$800. If you have no extended warranty or service plan coverage, it may not be worth the effort to repair due to the excessive cost. Sorry...I wish I had better news for you. I hopes this provides you with some answers.