Question about Dishwashers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If I'm not mistaken, these dishwashers are built by Asko for Viking. If thats the case then you probably have a bad circulation pump. Under Asko's warranty (not sure if Viking is the same) these pumps are covered parts and labor for 3 years from installation date, and 5 years for the part only. The pump is accesed from the back of the machine,so you have to pull out the dishwasher. Then you remove the lower plate in the rear and the motor at the very back center is the pump. You remove it by turning it about a 1/4 turn either clockwise or counter clockwise, depending on the style, then place the new one in and turn it to lock it in place, being careful that the sealing oring stays in place or youll get a leak. The part will probably cost you around $150 unless viking marks theirs up more than Asko. Good Luck!
Posted on Nov 23, 2006
SOURCE: Dishwasher not filling
There is a new part that replaces the Overfill Pressure Switch part number 8058474. It is now part number 8071024 available from ASKO part sellers. The hose inlet on the new part has what looks like a blockage. It actually "dampens" the effect of the pressure sent through the small hose attached. The old part does not have this "damper" This pressure switch works in conjunction with the flood protection switch in the bottom pan of the dishwasher.
See my rant at
Posted on Feb 18, 2008
check the drain pump at the button of the dishwaher.
its not a big job, but it is a pain to take it out.
once you have it out, take a look of the bland on the motor, make sure they are all there, missing bland will cause the water to bunce back and nto drain completely. take a look of the motor, it should turn freely. the pump is oneway. make sure nothing else is broken from the pump and the outlet.
if all failed, replace the pump.
Posted on Oct 28, 2008
Checked water temperature at water heater. It was at 110 degrees. Turned water heater up to 125 degrees. Dishwasher works perfectly now.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
Introduction: This may work for your problem, but only if you're finding that you cannot get further water to flow into your machine. If your machine fills, OK, then this ISN'T a solution to your problem.
I have a Bosch SHV. My sink drain backed up, and the water accumulating in the sink then migrated to the dishwasher, through the drain pipe, causing the dishwasher to fill up and, it turned out, overflow a little. When I turned on the dishwasher, the water drained, but no new, clean water came through the hot water pipe. The drain just kept running, but nothing else happened.
Here's what happened. Under the main chamber of the dishwasher, by three inches or more, is a white plastic tray. It sits almost at the floor, and it may not be obvious that it's a tray capable of holding water. The overflow water spilled into that tray, which in turn caused a float in the far left side of the tray to lift (the way a toilet float lifts when the water fills in a toilet tank) and shut off the water intake valve (like the toilet float shuts off the toilet water flow). So long as that valve is closed, your machine will not run.
STOP: disconnect power supply at this point for safety.
To see the white plastic tray and thereby fix the problem, you'll need to take off the BLACK TOE-KICK (attached on my unit by two star-head screws at its bottom) and, possibly , the OUTER PANEL OF THE DISHWASHER DOOR (in my case, a custom wood panel (attached by a few screws through the inner side of the door, two screws that are accessed by popping off little--smaller than a dime size--covers on the sides of the doors, and then the door panel lifts up and out). (I took the outer panel off, but I can't remember if I would have had to reach into the white tray without doing so.)
Once you do that, you can see the white plastic tray. It doesn't come out--at least not without removing the entire machine--so try this. You can take your fingers and feel over and into the tray. You'll probably feel the water--I did. Look at the far left of the tray with a flashlight. Back there you'll see a flat, round, 3-inch diameter piece of white plastic sitting at the bottom of the tray. To its center is a generally U-shaped lever looking device, which, at its far left end, is connected to a red stick pointing up into the machine. When water goes into the tray, the float rises, causing the U-shaped lever to rise, causing the red stick to raise, which (though I couldn't see it) causes an electrical signal to run to, and shut, the valve for your water intake.
I took paper towels, and then a narrowly cut sponge, to sop up the water in the tray. I then took my shop vac and, using it as a blower, blew what little water was left right out. You might be able to use a hair dryer, but first sop out what you can or it'll take forever. Once you've done that, put everything back together and plug your dishwasher back in. My buttons are at the top panel. To reset, hold down the two buttons marked for clear drain for three seconds and release. You should be able to start up then. It took 15 seconds before the water started to run, but it did and the machine works fine again.
Interesting note: The valve that stopped the water from flowing in automatically opened once I got the water out of the tray. You don't need to reset the valve.
Posted on May 09, 2009
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