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dirt in shutter is likely. Make sure the battery is fully charged before you try this. The added power may help overcome the sticking. You can help the shutter open with a toothpick by adding just a little force to one of the shutter blades. if you can excercise the shutter this way a few times you might free the shutter mechanism up. You will have to disconnect the battery after each try as this will reset the circuitry.
The usual cause of this is a failure of the motor in the SQ unit that drives the mirror up and down, operates the aperture lever, and charges the shutter. This parts is so notoriously bad that it is on permanent back order at Nikon
Some of the other solutions with popped shutter blades - usually when I see this it is caused by the customer trying to clean his image sensor and having the shutter blades close on his/her tool.
The lens does not have a shutter - that's in the camera body. The lens contains the aperture or f stop adjustment. It is done by injecting or retracting blades in the light stream of the lens barrel between the front and rear optics. Check the aperture blades to see if they move easily and open equally by varying the f-stop ring on the lens while looking through it. If not moving all the blades the same amount or it does not continue to restrict the opening as you increase the f-stop value, there's something wrong with the lens.
Are you sure you haven't accidentally activated any exposure compensation adjustment on the camera body?
Does this fault happen only with that lens? Also, you're wrong about the shutter: it appears you're mistaking the shutter assembly for the lens diaphragm (also known as the "iris").
Older lenses often have sticky diaphragms, usually due to oil migrating onto the individual blades and sticking them together. A sticking diaphragm can interfere with the shutter operation on some SLR's.
Fixing a sticky iris is usually a professional job, but if you're careful then with a simple non-autofocus lens like yours it's often possible to do on a DIY basis but will be very fiddly. The object is to get to the iris blades and to then thoroughly clean them. They're Teflon coated so should slide over each other without lubrication, but their pivots normally need the tiniest bit of lubrication. If you try and fail then you've lost nothing as the lens was effectively scrap anyway and there are plenty of cheap/free replacements around.
I just fixed mine and what came out of the end of the lense housing was the shutter assembly. Your camera will still work but the shutter will not operate for protecting your lense.
What was on the ground from the shutter assembly looked like six parts but actually there's eight:
1 - Front round plate (what you see if shutter assembly was still in the lense housing).
2 - Hair size springs that hopefully stayed in the sides of the front round plate. IF NOT OR EITHER ARE LOST, THE SHUTTERS CAN'T BE SET TO CLOSE SO SKIP THE STEPS BELOW ABOUT INSTALLING THE BLADES.
1 - back round plate (black with four tabs).
2 - Larger L-shaped blades.
2 - Smaller L-shaped blades.
Place the front round plate with cosmetic (engraved 'PENTAX...) side down and look at the inside for two round mounting posts on the left and right. You will be using the larger of the two posts on each side for placing the L-shaped blades.
Place the larger L-shape blades with the hole end onto the posts. Blades should swing freely and their backs match with the shape of the inside of the front plate when open.
Place the smaller L-shape blades on top of their respective larger L-shape blades with the hole end onto the same posts used in the last step. Blades should swing freely and their backs match with the shape of the inside of the front plate when open along with the larger L-shape blades.
Springs (long ends) will need to notch into the smaller L-shape piece end (nearest the hole/post end). This is a real trickly part of the assembly and I used two tools like large pins or needles to pry the spring into the notch. If you can't do this, no sense in even leaving the four L-shaped blades inside of the front round plate since the shutter will not close properly without the springs.
Align and snap the back round plate tabs onto the front round plate. The shutter assembly is now ready to put back into the lense assembly.
MAKE SURE THE CAMERA IS IN THE OFF POSITION AND THE LENSE ASSEMBLY IS RETRACTED!
Align the front of the shutter assembly with the engraved wording properly oriented (not sideways, not upside down, etc.) and press gently into the lense assembly until completely in the end of the housing.
If blades were installed properly, they will open when the camera is turned on, and close when the camera is turned off.
If blades were not installed, the empty shutter assembly (back round plate snapped onto front round plate) can still be pressed into the lense housing...the shutter will just not work and the lense will always be exposed. Actually, this is one helluva lot easier than fixing the shutter assembly and not the end of the world for your camera's operation!
Since this happened on two seperate rolls of film, the problem may be that the shutter blades have been bent out of place. This can cause the symptoms you describe. Have a qualified technician look at the shutter. Usually the blades can be reset. In bad cases the blades may be bent or creased. If this is the case, the shutter may need to be replaced.