Question about Bosch SHX46L1xUC Dishwasher
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Access to Bosch dishwasher pump
To access the pump, first bail and sponge out any water in the machine's tub. Then tip the machine over on its front, using a heavy blanket or pad to protect the dishwasher's finish. Remove the back service panel. The pump is usually located along the bottom. Good luck!
Posted on Aug 28, 2007
can you supply the complete model # for me and also an e-mail address and i will e-mail you the pdf file.
Posted on Sep 25, 2008
If this is a new Bosch Dishwasher then there should be two metal tabs that protrude from the top of the tub above the door. These tabs are for top mounting the dishwasher to a wood countertop, however these tabs also can be relocated to side mount the dishwasher to the cabinetry. The way to do this is to pull the dishwasher out of the hole it is in, in the counter (be careful not to pull too hard or to move the machine out too far due to the length of the water and electric lines). just pull it out easy till you can see the tabs, Now using a pair of pliers, bend the tabs on the backside of the mounts straight so you can remove them from the framing of the dishwasher. Next look at the tabs there should be a perforation where you can use 2 pairs of pliers to snap the tabs off at the perforation, after snapping off these tabs, look at the sides of the dishwasher and you will see a slot where you can reattach the tabs into, and bend the tabs in the back to hold them in place. If you look at the rubber gasket material on both sides of the machine - you can see where the round holes are located for side mounting. Attach the tabs and gently push the machine back into the cabinetry. Now using a small drill bit, drill a pilot hole into both sides of the cabinets to mount the dishwasher. You want to drill these pilot holes so as not to split the counter facing when you drill in the screws. Using the Bosch screws that came with the dishwasher (or small flat phillips screws) slowly screw in the screws into the sides of the cabinetry. When you attempt to remove the machine from the cabinetry you may find that it is adjusted tight to the countertop. If this is the case you will need to remove the 2 screws that hold the kickplate in at the bottom of the dishwasher in the front and remove the kickplate. Then you will need to bring up the front legs on both the left and the right and also the rear leg which is adjusted up and down by using a flat blade screwdriver. Look at the front of the dishwasher, behind the kickplate and there will be a adjusting screw with arrows which point left to right. the direction you turn this screw will determine which way the dishwasher will adjust,- right adjusts the machine higher and left lower. Good luck!!!!!! Hope this helps.
Posted on Feb 05, 2009
your model is pretty new. just so you know your warrenty is 1 year parts and labor. 2 years on parts. it should not cost that much money.
there are two components that start before the circulation pump.(wash noise you hear)
first sounds you hear will be the drain pump. usually rattling noises if something is in it but it can make a hum noise if something is jamming the drain propeller up. which is accessible with a T20 torx driver. take the filters out and the mesh filter. and unscrew the screw in the base towards the left. pull out whatever is lodged.
the other humming sound can come from the next component that activates is the watervalve. make sure you dont have a kinked water intake line. otherwise its a bad valve. i have had to change a few of those water valves out already but not for a hum noise on your model. you have a new style water valve. when brands make new parts we get problems fast sometimes..
Posted on Mar 19, 2009
This is such an easy repair, you'll be shocked and surprised! The reason this is happening is that the computer or timer has detected a "flood" condition and has permanently energized the drain pump to clear the "flood".
What you'll need to fix it...
1.) Shop-Vac (for vacuuming water) with a crevice tool (like one of these)
2.) T20 Torx bit with a driver. Torx sizing here. (You can get a set at Home Depot or Lowes)
All you gotta do now is get down on the floor and remove the kick panel. Then remove the screws holding the water valve and lift it up out of its' plastic holding. Now your shop-vac w/ crevice tool can be used. Stick the crevice tool in there (about 10") and vacuum up all the water that's been trapped in the basin. (you may need a flashlight to see what's going on back in there...) After the water is gone, your DW will work fine.
Here's how it works... About 10" behind the inlet valve is a "float" made of styrofoam. When water gets into the basin, the float rises and eventually trips a "flood condition" switch. This switch shuts the unit down and will only allow the drain pump to operate. So what you want to do is get the water out of the basin.
There may be a reason for the basin flooding, though. Suds (caused by too much (or the wrong) detergent), an actual water leak from the valve, etc... So after you get the water out of there and the unit is working again, you may want to monitor it (like, only run it when someone is home) for a while just to make sure that a real flood does not occur.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
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