Question about Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric Single Oven
Seems like you found out the hard way what I wrote about in this tip...
Check it out it also contains some thing to try on how to unlock that oven..
Self Cleaning Oven Problem
Asker's Testimonial " Wish I had read this first. I never would have usedthe self cleaning option. Thanks for the info!! " - amymrocks
Posted on Nov 09, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The switch inside the door lock mechanism is stuck down making the unit think it is still locked. the switched is located next to the hook that locks your door.
Posted on Oct 31, 2007
SOURCE: oven door locked
First check to see if you activated the "child lock-out". See your manual to deactivate.
You could also try unplugging the unit, or trip the circuit breaker in your home which supplies power to the oven. Wait 5 minutes and turn power back on. This will reset the controls.
Posted on Jan 26, 2008
Try throwing the electrical breaker off and then on to see if it will reset. If not you could put it through another cycle to see if its a jammed armature. However either the door lock motor armature is jammed or the motor is the problem or the solid state did not recognize the cycle was over. If you open the breakers and remove the covers to access the mounting screws you can work the unit out of the wall. Be sure to place some heavy towel or card board on the ground to keep from damaging the floor. Watch placement of your hands and depending on your fittness level you may need a hand pulling and replacing the unit. Test the electrical supply to ensure that its not energized. Then try disengaging the lock armature. IF YOU OPT TO REMOVE THE LOCK THEN THE UNIT SHOULD NOT BE USED IN THE CLEANING CYCLE, EVEN THOUGH THE UNIT SHOULD NOT FUNCTION WITH THE LOCK DISENGAGED, YOU NEVER KNOW ABOUT ELECTRONICS AND IF IT RAN IN THE CLEANING CYCLE SOMEOEN COULD OPEN IT AND GET BADLY BURNED. SO DONT DO IT. You should be able to order the parts needed on line at this website. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?intcmp=xsite_Sears Best o Luck :?) DRRXR
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
The first time we used our Whirlpool oven the same thing happened - no power and yet the circuit breaker was not blown. I called Whirlpool, and they sent out a technician to check it out as it was still under warranty. He said the temperature was off (too hot) by 20F - he adjusted. He also replaced the blower. What he did not tell me was that the thermal fuse had blown, and he replaced it - this was the REAL cause for the failure. I got the impression that he did not want to let me in on the secret. He did not note on the paperwork that he replaced the thermal fuse. Last week I decided to run the oven through the self-cleaning cycle (the oven is now 8-1/2 yrs old) - I don't believe that we cleaned the oven but a couple of times since the first time that it was "repaired." I used the default 3-1/2 hour setting. Everything appeared to be fine - the oven went through the cleaning cycle with no apparent problems. The display now read "cool down" - I went to bed thinking everything was okay. I got up the next morning only to find out that the power was out. I called Whirlpool and demanded that they repair the unit again as they clearly never fixed it correctly in the first place. They offered me 15% off on a new oven - WHOOPEE! I asked to speak with the supervisor - he did not budge either. I was upset, and I told him that I would NEVER purchase a Whirlpool appliance again! I decided to tear into the oven to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled out the front panel - everything looked okay. I then noticed the "thermal fuse" - I did not know what it was called at the time, but it looked familiar. I checked voltage on either side of the fuse and found the voltage to be zero on the downstream side of the fuse. I pulled it out and read the information on the device: Microtemp 110C. I called a local appliance repair shop - they told me that it would cost $50 to purchase a new fuse! I told them that seemed very high. I ended up stopping at Radio Shack. They have thermal fuses in various temperature and voltage ranges. I got a 144C 10A fuse and carefully soldered the connectors to it and replaced the protective plastic sleeve. I actually bypassed the thermal fuse in order to use the oven before I found the replacement fuse. While it is a good idea to have a protection device for the slim chance that an oven may malfunction by overheating, it is not a necessity for the functionality of the oven. Hopefully, the thermal fuse will not fail during my next attempt to self-clean the oven. I do have a concern about the 10 amp rating, but I'm sure that it will work fine.
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
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Nov 03, 2016 | Kenmore Ovens
Hello friend, thank you for your post!
Based off the information you have provided the door on your Frigidaire wall oven is not unlocking. Performing a reset on your oven can trigger the door latch to unlock, in order to reset your oven you would need to disconnect power from it for roughly ten minutes. If this does not resolve your issue with your oven you can also hold down the clear or cancel button for 10 to 15 seconds.
Another step you can attempt is to perform a self-clean cycle and before the cycle starts cancel it and that can trick your oven into unlocking. If these troubleshooting steps do not help correct the problem it could be a faulty door latch or control panel. I hope this information has been helpful. -Matt
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