Question about Whirlpool LGB6300 Gas Dryer

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When dryer turns on. ignitor starts. It runs for 40 seconds then shuts off. We replaced the coils. the thermal fuse is good. We also are getting continuity on the flame sensor. what else could it be??????

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  • dtl1972 Nov 09, 2010

    another question. Before I go and buy more parts. After i replaced the coils, do I need to put the entire dryer back togehter again to run or can i test with it apart?

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  • Master
  • 744 Answers

See this link:

http://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts?searchText=LGB6300&Search=Find%20Parts

Scroll down until you see a part called "cycling thermostat." Click on the part name and it will show you where it is and how to change it. This is most likely the issue. Also check for bad connections and make sure the dryer vent and discharge piping is clean.

You don't have to buy it from them.

Posted on Nov 09, 2010

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1 Answer

Gas dryer checked ignitor, thermal fuse and flame all had continuity still ignitor will not glow or heat


Will try to help you checked the igniter you say good if good does it glow if so clamp on one wire and take an amp draw while heating I like to see a minimum of 3 amps if glowing and 3 and above change the coils on the gas valve very cheap, now if not glowing and good ignitor the fun begins power comes out of the heat relay on the control board passes thru the thermal fuse then thermal cut off then hi limit then the flame sensor while also feeding the gas coils the neutral is supplied thru the centrifugal switch on the tumbler motor if the dryer stays running the centrifugal switch is good and you have a neutral bad flame sensor very rare since I am not there check the thermal cut off once blown it does not reset has to be replaced if all the fused I mentioned check good then check the heat relay on the board black and red wire stick meter ends in both off should read 120 volt when machine turned on should hear it click and meter should read 0 volts the boards seldom go bad but I have replaced a few in 5 years I am leaning more towards an open thermal cutoff

Feb 20, 2015 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Hello, i have a kenmore 80 series gas dryer(110.74842400). it will start, heat up three times, then wont ignitor glows and just shuts off for the rest of the cycle. i was pretty sure it was the coil


Hello Brian;


My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.
Recently, I worked on a LG gas dryer. I Ohm the thermostat and found that to be bad, but when I Ohm the ignitor I got a reading of 135 Ohms. I replaced the ignitor. The new ignitor Ohm reading was 167. In other words, the ignator did glow red, but did not have the power to open the gas valve.
Although, you checked the electrical continuity of the gas valve, that does not check the mechanical issues. Sometimes the spool in the valve sticks or does not fully open. You need to hit it with a hammer and turn the dryer on. Repeat this about 8 times.
Make sure your hot air distribution manifold is not plugged up. This too will shut your unit down.

Nov 06, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

A whirlpool gas dryer will not heat up


If your dryer is not getting any heat, you need to make sure there is nothing blocking the vent. IE: LINT. Air flow is key to efficient drying. Make sure the dryer settings are appropriate for the clothes you want to dry. The timer selection, fabric selection, and the temperature selection all play important roles in proper dryer operation.
Check the heating element, burner operation, ignitor, thermal fuse, and the wiring (power cord).
• Heating element (For Electric Models)
• Burner operation (For Gas Models)
• Ignitor (For Gas Models)
• Thermal fuse
I WOULD START WITH:
To protect from over-heating, many dryers use what's commonly called a thermal fuse. If the thermal fuse gets too hot, it will blow, and completely shut down your dryer until it is replaced. This fuse is often mounted within the exhaust duct in the back panel. It's about an inch long, and is usually found within a white plastic housing. When fuses blow, it means they have no continuity and no power will flow through it. A bad thermal fuse needs to be replaced. When replacing this fuse, check the dryer vents to make sure there is no lint buildup which can cause the heat to stay trapped and blow the fuse again.
Visually inspect your heating element for any broken or burned areas.Check the coil for continuity with a Volt Ohm Meter. If there's no continuity, it means that the element is bad and you need to replace it.
If the ignitor is cycling without the burner lighting, you probably have defective electrical coils in the gas valve. These coils look like black cylinders with wires coming out the top of them, and are located near the burner valve assembly. When they get power, they open up and allow the gas to get through to the burner. If this is a new installation, make sure the gas valve is turned on.

Sep 28, 2013 | Home

1 Answer

Dryer air is not getting hot. All other functions still work.


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back

Jul 28, 2011 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer is running, but heat will not turn on


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back.

Jul 27, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

I have a Kenmore gas dryer model 110.77670400. The ignitor lights, but gas valve doesn't open. I tested thermal switches in back for continuity and all checked good. Flame sensor is good and I replaced...


Hi,


Thank you for contacting fixya.com.

If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time.However unplug your Kenmore gas dryer from its electrical outlet. Make sure that all electricity has been disconnected from your dryer.

Turn off the gas valve that supplies gas to your Kenmore gas dryer. Remove the gas flex line at the shut-off valve using an adjustable wrench.

Remove your dryer's back panel. Take out the screws on the back of the dryer and the panel will come free. Set the panel and screws aside until you are ready to replace them.

Locate the thermal fuse between the dryer's blower housing and exhaust. The thermal fuse looks like a white plastic strip with two connected wires.


Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.




Jun 15, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

I replaced the igniter and thermal fuse and dryer


The thermal fuse should only be replaced if the dryer will not start
If it starts the thermal fuse is good.
If you touched the ignitor with your fingers it may have blown out.
Open the dryer and check for voltage to the ignitor through the ignitor wires while the dryer is on.
If you have no voltage check the hi-limit thermostat for continuity as well as the operating thermostat.
Check the flame sensor for continuity while it is cold.
If you have power to the ignitor place a clamp on amp meter on one ignitor wire and turn the dryer on.
If you read 3 amps or less the ignitor is bad.
If it reads the amps or more the gas valve coils are bad.

Jan 17, 2010 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore Gas Dryer won't heat!


On the back of the dryer near the fan blower housing is a thermal fuse, if this opens up ( no continuity ) the gas burner often quits but the motor will still run. If the thermal fuse is open/bad, always clean, change, adjust the venting system and vent hood first and clean out the dryers air ducts. Sometimes it is a good idea to replace the operating thermostat at the same time.
Thermal fuse parts help link...on blower housing cover, can not be re-set, must be replaced if is open (no continuity between pins).

Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

No Heat


Hello
Welcome to Fixya


Remove the vent line from the rear and try the dryer.
If it heats then that means there is a clog or kink in the vent line blocking the vent air from exiting which will stop the dryer from getting hot!
If not then it's another one of these problems.

Defective Ignitor (Gas Only)
When heated the ignitor used on your gas dryer must obtain a specific high temperature
in order to activate the flame sensor. This ignitor is fragile and susceptible to cracking.
A hairline fracture that is barely visible to the naked eye is enough to change
the resistance of the ignitor to a point that is will not work properly.
You can test the resistance of your ignitor. You should get a reading of 50-400 ohms of
resistance.

If the ignitor gets hot and then goes off after about 10-15 seconds and there is
no ignition, the problem is probably not the ignitor. It is most likely the gas valve
coils that are defective.

If the ignitor comes on and stays on, it is the flame sensor that is defective.

If the ignitor is not getting hot it could also be one of the thermostats that is defective.
The power for the ignitor is passed from the timer, through all of the thermostats,
limit switches and fuses to the ignitor. So if you are not getting power to the ignitor
during ignition, you should check the continuity of the individual thermostats and fuses.
DRYER DOES NOT HEAT



Defective Gas Valve Coil (Gas Dryer Only)

If the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down, it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot. However the coils still work when when cool.

An easy way to diagnose the coils when the burner is not lighting, watch the ignitor. If the the ignitor glows for 10 to 15 seconds but no flame is created, then the coils are faulty. If the ignitor is not glowing the problem is elsewhere.

Recent Customer Symptoms:
The dryer burner doesn't always come on when starting. If the burner does come on, once it goes off if won't come on again until the dryer cools down.



Defective Flame Sensor (Gas Dryer Only)
The flame sensor's job is to monitor the ignitor for sufficient heat
to ignite the gas. A properly operating flame sensor will pass a
continuity check under room temperature.

Common Symptoms
If the flame sensor is defective in the open position,
the ignitor will not get hot when the dryer is started.
However, if it is defective in the closed position the ignitor
will get hot, but the flame sensor will not allow the flame to ignite.
In this case, the ignitor will usually stay hot for a long period of
time.



Defective Thermostat
The thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature
in the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the
temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change
the operating thermostat.

The thermostat can also fail in the opposite mode.
It can prevent the element from heating at all.
A failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.

There are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw.
These thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the
Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry
cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the
problem.


Defective Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is in series with one leg of power to the motor.
If the fuse is open (no continuity) the motor will not run.

Location:
The thermal fuse is located in different locations according
to the model and brand of dryer.

Solution:
Check the thermal fuse for continuity with a volt/ohm meter.
If it is open, it will need to be replaced






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Jan 25, 2009 | Kenmore 73952 Gas Dryer

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