oven door not closing::
There are a number of reasons why you may find that your oven door won't close properly, and troubleshooting oven
is not too complicated, so you should be able to manage this in a few
hours. When you are trying to decide what is the cause of your oven door
not shutting properly, you should be able to identify the different
problems, and also understand how to repair the door without too much
difficulty. If you find a lot of problems, then you may need to provide a
different solution, for example replacing the door and fittings
Latch is Broken
This is perhaps the most common cause of the oven door not closing
properly. The latch is supposed to connect to a hole in the oven itself,
but sometimes the latch can become stuck, and it may also be improperly
greased. If the latch is sticking, then you should try adding a drop of
oil, and trying again. Other reasons for the latch not closing properly
include dirt being trapped in the hole on the other side, or the latch
itself being cracked and not fitting correctly into the hole. The latch
can also be completely replaced if you find that you have repeated
problems with it.
No heat but otherwise normal operation
If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage
transformer rather then at the line input, the clock and touchpad will
work but the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if the
fuse has already blown there will simply be no heating action once the
cook cycle is started. There are other variations depending on whether the
cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse.
Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there
will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are
somewhat rare on domestic ovens.
A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:
- Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator
or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the
crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and
can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact. See the section:
See the section: Testing the magnetron.
- Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for
continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms. See the
section: Testing thermal protectors and thermal
- Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit.
It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test
for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
- Open HV capacitor - see the section: Testing the
high voltage capacitor. A shorted HV capacitor would likely immediately
blow the fuse.
- Open HV diode - see the section: Testing the high
- Open magnetron filament - This failure may also be due to loose, burnt,
or deteriorated press (Fast-on) lugs for the filament connections and not
an actual magnetron problem. See the section: Testing
- Open winding in HV transformer. See the section:
Testing the high voltage transformer.
- Defective HV relay. A few models use a relay in the actual high voltage
circuitry (rather than the primary) to regulate cooking power. This may
have dirty or burnt contacts, a defective coil, or bad connections
- Shorted HV diode - see the section: Testing the high
- Short or other fault in the magnetron - see the section:
Testing the magnetron.
- Short in certain portions of the HV wiring. See the section:
Testing and repairing the wiring and connections.
A shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would
probably result in a loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not
blow the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse - not present on most domestic
ovens - might blow.)
Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in
no heat as well including a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s),
Timer and light work but no heat, cooling fan, or turntable rotation
This means the controller thinks the oven is working but the microwave
generator AND motors aren't being powered. Note that these symptoms are
subtly different than just having no heat and eliminates the actual components
of the microwave generator from suspicion in most cases.
Hope it helps
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