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I need help/instructions for installing a subwoofer to my 2005 Acura TL. it has a factory stereo and does not have sub/RCA outputs in the rear. I purchased a Speaker to RCA converter i order to tap in the wires and than send the signal to the amp. the Car comes with a small bose sub in the rear and i was wondering if i could tap in those wires, or it had to specifically be the wires for the right and left speakers. also doest it have to be the wires that branch off right behind the stereo? Thanks for your help.

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  • Daniel Dolin
    Daniel Dolin Nov 09, 2010

    Thank you for your help man. i seem to be having a problem though. the Amp will not turn on. I ddont know if its my connections are bad/wrong or what but heres what i have done. I routed the power witre from the battery to the amp-secure. The ground wire is on a good ground and than routed to the amp-secure. I read the the amp with a mulitmeter from the power terminal to the ground and it read 14V. I than have rca cables going from the amp to the converrter and than the converter going to the cars original sub wires. Does it matter how i connect those wires? Also do i need a remote wire (i think its a blue wire normally) that signals the amp to turn on? or should that not matter since the wires going to the car sub are already getting a signal. Thanks for any advise/help.
    Danny

  • Daniel Dolin
    Daniel Dolin Nov 09, 2010

    Hey Man,
    thanks for the help, i am still a little unsure about what to do with the remote wire, do i route a remote wire from the amp to the toggle switch and than to the remote wire behind the stereo or what? where do i route the other end of the wire to? also there are 4 wires for my RCA converter, a R, -R, a L, and a -L, but there are only two wires going to my sub, how should i splice them? THanks again man,
    Danny

  • Daniel Dolin
    Daniel Dolin Nov 11, 2010

    finally figured it out, thank you bro

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  • Master
  • 2,777 Answers

It can be any wires that carry a signal. The ones that are going to the BOSE sub currently in there will definitely work, they are already producing sub-range frequencies, so it will work best. If there is the equivalent of a sub out on that deck then these wires will be it, if not they will be the same as any other wires in the car.

You can attach it anywhere, behind the stereo is just as good as right in front of any speaker... the signal is the same. The only time it wouldn't be is if the cables were hundreds of feet long, which of course they are not.

Thanks, let me know if you have any questions or concerns, just reply to my answer here and I will be right back with you.

Tim

Posted on Nov 09, 2010

  • Tim Grayson
    Tim Grayson Nov 09, 2010

    Ah that is the problem, the remote wire I would bet:

    You have to purchase a toggle switch that fits your fancy, find a cool
    place to mount or hide it, from here you want to attach the remote wire
    to your amp, run it to your toggle, cut it, attach it to one terminal,
    then attach the end you just cut to another one. Then run the remote
    wire back to the amp and cut it there leaving a foot or so of extra
    cable.

    Then use the toggle switch to turn on and off the amp...

    Essentially something like this, but they make fancy ones out there... you should be able to get one at radio shack:

    http://soundsgreatusa-online.amazonwebst...

    If you want to reply please hold off until the morning, it only gives me a few hours to respond once you reply, and if I don't it locks me out of the problem.

    Please wait until no sooner than 5 AM Eastern Time to reply if possible.

    Thanks sir, I think we have it figured out though, but please reply tomorrow if need be...

    Tim

  • Tim Grayson
    Tim Grayson Nov 09, 2010

    Not sure how to splice them, checking on that for you. But I think both L's go to the Left channel wire and both R's go to the right channel... not sure where else they could go. I am checking on this for you.

    Here is a step by step for how to install the toggle:














    http://i.ehow.com/images/a04/ap/mm/insta..." class="h_mi" />


    A properly installed toggle switch should give years of service.








    Derek Odom













    Most automotive toggle switches are three-prong
    units that are really quite simple to install and wire up, once you
    understand exactly what it is you are doing. A well-placed and properly
    mounted toggle switch will give years of trouble-free service. There
    are many styles available, from simple paddle toggles to rockers and
    push-button switches.














    Difficulty: Moderately Challenging


    Instructions








    Things You'll Need:





    • Toggle switch


    • Wire


    • Wire strippers


    • Terminal connectors


    • Drill with appropriate bit


    • Voltage meter (optional)


    • Electrical tape (optional)







    1. 1


      Locate a hole at or close to the desired location of the
      switch, or drill one yourself, making sure it is big enough for the
      toggle switch to mount into. Be mindful of what is behind where you are
      drilling, so you don't short out existing wiring or go through other
      important components.




    2. 2


      Route the wire to be used through the back of the hole,
      coming out to the switch side, with the terminal connectors already on
      it. Connect the wire that is to be the hot, or power supply wire to the
      appropriate prong. On many toggle switches the positive side will be
      bigger, requiring a bigger connector. Do the same with the negative
      side. Connecting these before the switch is mounted negates the need to
      fight with them in hard to reach places.




    3. 3


      Mount the switch into the hole using the supplied nut, which
      is normally a round, ring type sealer that screws onto the threaded,
      male end of the toggle switch. Do your best to make this very snug,
      because it may be hard to get to at a later date, and also because
      allowing the switch to wobble in the hole may cause a dangerous short.




    4. 4


      Connect the power wire to the battery or a fuse block, making
      sure the fuses used are the correct amperage for the application.
      Using the middle outlet on the toggle switch, connect a wire to the
      accessory to be used such as lights, an amp, a horn or a cooling fan.
      Connect the ground wire to the negative side of the battery, or any
      available good ground such as screws to the chassis, the frame or
      sometimes the ground to another accessory.




    5. 5


      Test the circuit. When the switch is off, there should be no
      activity from the accessory, and if tested with a voltage meter, it
      should read zero at the accessory. When the switch is flipped on, it
      completes the connection, allowing current to flow from the positive
      wire to the accessory, activating it.




















    Tips & Warnings





    • When
      drilling a hole for the toggle switch, consider starting with a smaller
      bit and making a "pilot hole," to ease the drilling of a larger hole.


    • Route
      the wires carefully; stay away from extremely hot places and sharp
      places as well, which could cut the wire and cause a short.


    • If
      routing the power wire directly to the battery, include an in-line fuse
      to ensure safety and prevent fires or the destruction of switch or
      accessory.


    • If a wire passes through a hole in the body, for instance, install a grommet or heavily tape the wire with electrical tape.


    • A two-prong switch simply gives or cuts power to something; a three-prong one is for external accessories.




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