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Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:
first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
Cooling Off mode (also called Shop mode), is designed for use by retailers when they are displaying refrigerators on the shop
floor. In Cooling Off mode, the refrigerator's fan motor and lights work normally, but the compressors do not run, and
the refrigerator and freezer do not get cold.
To start Cooling Off mode, Touch and hold the Energy Saver button and the Power Freeze button for 3 seconds during normal
The refrigerator chime sounds and the temperature display flashes OF OF.
To cancel Cooling Off mode, Touch and hold the Energy Saver and the Power Freeze buttons again for 3 seconds.
The 643V has an issue that it can freeze the water in the line during winter.
You must switch the fridge off until the water starts to run again. Then set the temperature of the fridge up as high as possible in winter. Draw 1 litre of water at least twice a day during winter.
This fixed my problem.
You can set the tempertaure back down in the fridge during summer without a problem.
Viking wine coolers are made by Marvel.They all had issues with freezing the contents. If you replace the electronic cold control system it will be fine.If you don't, it will freeze the wine popping the corks and leaking in the unit.If you get the parts from Marvell they are much cheaper.
refrigerators have 2 coils. the evaporator coil and the condensing coil. one is on the bottom of the fridg and one is on the back or inside behind a false panel. these coils must be kept clean or if the condensing coil cannot reject the heat absorbed by the evaporator, the box temp will stay high and if the evap coil cant absorb heat the box temp stays low running the risk of freezing
First thing to try is Powering off the FF at the mains supply and leaving it standing for 30 minutes. Make sure that you do not open any of the doors or touch any of the controls during this time. Then reconnect the power and wait for 30 to 60 minutes to see if the fault remains or is cured. Try defrosting the FF as despite common belief these units are not totally frost free. In side by sides if the freezer side is working OK and the fridge side is not working correctly it means that air ducting has iced up or the air vent from the freezing unit to the fridge compartment has stuck in the closed or partially closed position which causes the fridge to not be any where near as cool as it should be. If it is too cold then the vent is stuck in the open position and the fridge temperature will continue to fall and become the same as the freezer, thereby freezing the contents of the fridge compartment. It can also get stuck in another position so that if the temperature is adjusted on the front panel then nothing happens to the temperature in the fridge compartment. The vent, which is usually at the top of the fridge compartment on the side where it joins the freezer compartment, is controlled by a small sync motor and either the motor has become faulty, the control module is faulty or the vent is iced up. It can be come iced up by putting too many hot items in the fridge so the steam condenses and freezes the vent in position and then the motor cannot open or close it causing it and / or the control module to become faulty. Other times it is just old age that causes the motor and / or the control module to fail. If the sync motor and vent are working OK then there may be a fault with the fridge temperature sensor or main on board controller that will mean that the sensor or the controller will need replacing.