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Noisy drum dryer 4 yrs. old , .it`s making a noise like there`s a pair of sneakers drying . Any help would be appreciated.. Whirlpool gas dryer model #367031

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You may have a rear drum support issue. There are 2 rollers,(supports), 1 at 4 o'clock and 1 at 7 o'clock. If the bushing in the roller becomes elongated,(elliptical), it will give a thumping noise, as you describe.
Below is a link with exploded diagrams and parts help.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0100_14.asp
Please rate my answer on how helpful it was in resolving your issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)

Posted on Jun 16, 2008

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If the noise is like a shaking of rattling , like coins being shaked , then it is an object trapped inside the drum.

If instead the noise is a loud grinding , that may get louder on high speed, then it is usually a bad drum bearing.

If dryer is not cooling, check that the noise is not coming from the ventilation fan.

Rollers and belt tensioner can also make noise.

Enter the model number on one of two websites below to get parts and diagrams for your appliance:


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window.google_render_ad();There are many places & parts that could be causing your Whirlpool dryer to be noisy. To find out what is causing the noises, you need to find out where are the noises coming from.
Start the dryer and let it run for a while and listen to try to pinpoint where in the dryer the noises is coming from. Once you have an idea of the area, you will need to disconnect the dryer from the wall outlet and take the dryer apart.
Below you will find the parts that you need to check when your dryer is noisy.
The drum baffles:

The drum baffles are use to tumble the clothes inside of the drum, in other words, the baffles job is to separate the pieces of laundry as the drum turns.
When the dryer is getting older and if you use the dryer a lot, the drum baffles holding screws will become loose. Loose drum baffles will cause noises. All you need to do, is to open the top panel and tighten the drum baffles holding screws.
The drum support rollers:

These dryers uses four drum support rollers, tow on the front and two on the rear. The job of the drum support rollers is to keep the drum tumbling smooth.
When the grease on one of the rollers dry out, the roller start to make squeaking noises and the roller bearing will start to wear out until the bearing on the roller is gone. When the bearing on the roller is gone, the noise will change from squeaking to a clanking noise.
The blower wheel:

The blower wheel is use to circulate the air inside of the dryer drum. The most common Whirlpool blower noises are cause by something falling inside of the blower housing and hitting the blower when the motor runs.
The Idler pulley:

The Idler pulley is use to apply the necessary tension on the belt. There are two types of idler pulleys, the pulley with the wheel and the pulley with the teflon slide. A bad idler pulley could cause a Whirlpool dryer to be noisy.
The drive motor:

Worn out bearings on the motor will cause the motor to run kind of noisy. When the motor starts making noises, the solution to this problem is to replace the motor.
The belt:

The belt on most dryers is only about1/4 inch wide. These belts work very hard making the drum tumble. When the belt stretch just 1/2 inch more that it supposed to, the belt will start slipping and that could cause your Whirlpool dryer to be noisy.
As you could see, there are a lot of parts that could become noisy in your dryer. When your dryer starts making noises, make sure to check it out before it gets worse.

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Possibly the belt assembly. if you open the door and try to turn the drum does it turn with a little resistance, noises? this model has rollers, pulley, and a four groove belt 92 1/4" , sometimes the pulley sticks after yrs of use, belts wear, drum misaligns. the humming should be the motor trying to work.

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If the noise is like a shaking of rattling , like coins being shaked , then it is an object trapped inside the drum.

If instead the noise is a loud grinding , that may get louder on high speed, then it is usually a bad drum bearing.

If dryer is not cooling, check that the noise is not coming from the ventilation fan.

Rollers and belt tensioner can also make noise.

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Dec 16, 2008 | Whirlpool LGQ9858P Gas Dryer

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Here's a possible troubleshooting fix I just sent to someone else that quite possibly has the same problem you have there now.

Hope it helps you out as well, as it is a bit long, but I'll post the whole reply I sent them and you can use whatever parts of it that will work for you.

Hi,

My name is Frank...

Regarding your possibly broken dryer.

I'm hoping that this info below helps you out even though I know I won't be able to repair/fix your dryer myself personally. Reason why - I'll explain further down.

I've repaired a few gas dryers & washing machines as well in my time. I can honestly say that I'm as close to being an expert as they come - esp when it comes to making repairs on existing dryer parts that can no longer be purchased as they are either obsolete, or way over-priced.

This is what I do for a semi-retired hobby, and sideline self-employed FIX-IT business. Named appropriately - FRANK'S FIX-IT SHOP. It's only an online fix it at present. Keeps me busy instead of being bored to death.

Electric clothes dryers are typically made the same as gas dryers - as to the mechanical drum part. Only thing different in a gas unit is the 110VAC electrical igniter or element, and the gas delivery system that provides the drying heat to the dryer itself.

All else is basically the same...

In an electric clothes dryer all the power comes from the 220VAC source as to the heating element, etc. The mechanical parts are typically the same as that of a gas dryer.

Having said this - the problem with your dryer can only have one of possibly 2 things wrong with it - seeings it's no doubt 220VAC totally electric, unless you actually have gas where you are there, which is rare in Florida these days!

If after you start the drying cycle you quickly open the dryer door, and you notice the drum is actually rotating - until there is the loss of electric power via a safety door switch that kills electric power to the drum motor activity - then there is NOT a problem with a broken drum belt.

If your dryer is older then say 10-15 years, and you really use it alot - then maybe there's a possibility of a broken drum belt (cost is around $10-15 for a new belt part depending on model - usually - and that does not include labor to install it).

Usually you'll hear the motor whining, but no drum 'noise' or movement. Dead giveaway as to a broken belt.

I had replaced 2 belts and 1 IDLER wheel on my own 30+ year old gas Kenmore dryer before selling it, and then picked up a more recent newer model GE washer & gas dryer that someone was just giving away for free. My 30+ year old Kenmore washer had just died on me at the same time is why I upgraded. Can't pass up a great freebie deal like that everyday! Never had to fix anything on my Kenmore washer during the time I owned it - it was GREAT!! I miss it dearly now.....

Though they were both newer GE models I really don't care for GE anything, as I think they are poorly built, as well as is their refrigerator brands as well.

Don't buy GE anything if you don't have to!! You heard it here from me and I know. My GE washer already broke a belt not even being 8-9 years old, and it was hell to replace, and never worked right afterwords as for the water pump part. Very POOR design! Oh well...

The gas dryer works fine, but the lint collector is not anywhere as good as my old Kenmore was. Poor design in my opinion.

I'm looking for another Kenmore or Whirlpool (set) model now, as they are the best. Kenmores are made by Whirlpool btw, just in case you didn't know that. The best in the business!

As to your other possible noise scenario -

The only other weird noise scenario you'll experience if it's a Kenmore dryer is when the drum "spring loaded track IDLER wheel" goes bad. This drum IDLER wheel is located under the drum itself at the back part of the drum and rides in a groove in the drum itself. It also helps to stabilize and counter-balance the drive belt-loaded turning drum that rides on this drum IDLER wheel as it turns. If your dryer does have the rear drum IDLER wheel system, then it just depends on the make and model. Kenmores & Whirlpools are designed this way. Very good design I might add!!

Some, or all GE dryer models may have a rear drum centering bearing assy instead - and in addition to - a front (Support, 3 glide front drum bearing part# 2359 & a Drum front slide bearing part# 2305 times 3 needed). If this/these front support/slide bearing part(s) goes bad usually the "felt duct" will need to be replaced as well. It not only helps to seal and quiet the drum that runs on the Support part, but it also helps to keep clothes from getting in-between the Support C part and helps prevent clothes from getting damaged. If those (3) friction sliders wear out or fall out, and take out or damage the "felt duct" as well, then the noise will be horrendously LOUD.

The front part of the GE drum models usually rides on a separate front panel support assy which can be made of a plastic C shaped device with anti-friction pad strips to help in frictionless rotation of the drum. A cheap but pretty effective design that does away with a front IDLER wheel, or pair of IDLER wheels as it were at the front of the dryer's frame which houses the door assy as well.

Though my Kenmore replacement drum IDLER wheel only cost me around $17 many years ago I see they now are anywhere in the $30+ range. Ouch! If it's the GE rear bearing assy that has gone bad - another Ouch as that part runs around $50+. Just depends on where you are and parts availability.

Most Kenmore/Whirlpool model dryers with the rear spring loaded drum IDLER wheel design do not have a ball bearing design, but rather have a typical cheaper brass bushing design instead, and when the grease lubricant dries out or they become dirty from picking up dirt in the air such as lint from the drum, etc then they begin to SQUEAL or WHINE very loudly.

The longer this goes on like this the hotter the drum IDLER track wheel gets until it melts the "typically" molded plastic housing, and then it really makes a lot of noise, and could actually lend to the drum belt breaking - as due from the added friction & stress from the binding wheel. It can also damage the front "felt duct" material as well. I had to repair mine as best I could as they had n factory replacement part that I knew off.

The only other mechanical parts that could possibly make any squealing type noise would be the electric belt drive motor or the heat blower motor being gas or electric. If the heat blower motor uses a cheaper brass sleeve shaft bushing bearing that would be rare, but could be a noise source as well. The belt drive motor rarely rarely would ever go bad!!

I hope this info helps to narrow down your problem if you are not able to at least open the top up to inspect the dryer yourself. Always unplug the 110VAC power before opening any cover or panel part up though!

That will not only prevent any electrical shock hazard, but will also keep the gas from turning on by mistake - as by solenoid design - if your dryer is gas.

I suspect this is what's wrong with your dryer.

Again - I hope the info helps you out...

Best regards,

Frank

Feb 09, 2008 | GE DBXR463GB Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer


Hi Kyboy49,

The drum rolls on idler wheels. Sometimes the lint and stuff clings to these wheels and causes the cluncking noise you speak of. You will have to pop up the lid and see if you can reach the wheels for cleaning. You may have to pull the front panel off.

Oct 23, 2007 | Whirlpool LGR7646E Dryer

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