a 6ya Technician can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Technician (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I'm not overly familiar with this model...but assuming its a desktop, try this. Open the side panel on the case and try to find the back of the power button. If you can find it, and there are two wires that come directly from the back of said button, follow those two wires to where they connect to the motherboard. If they run into something else or there are more than two wires connecting to said power button, you may be out of luck and need to get a hold of a new button before you can turn it back on.
I take no responsibility for any slips and mistakes you should make doing the following, do so at your own discretion and beware of possible damage to yourself or your computer.
I used to work in a shop, and when ever we'd get a desktop with a bad power button, we'd turn it on by opening the tower, tracing the wires from the power button to the two pins on the motherboard said wires plug into, unplugging said wires, and shorting the two pins on the motherboard together for half a second with a screw driver. Naturally, I'll tell you to be careful doing this. I'm not responsible if you short the wrong pins and a)fry your computer or b) fry yourself.
the way i done this was drilling out the rivets,replacing the cord and putting new rivets back in.if you dont have new rivets or the tool to put them in with you can use self tapping screws instead. i hope this helps you out?
Yes, you do have to drill the heads off the rivets to get the cover off the timer cavity. Drill just enough to get the heads off the rivets with a large diameter drill bit. Before you remove the old ignition unit, mark the unit and the inside of the timer cavity so that you can install the new unit in EXACTLY the same position. This way you'll get the timing right. Do not use standard rivets to reinstall the cover plate. They are special rivets. Standard rivets will allow the broke piece to drop into the timer cavity and destroy your igniton system. You can get the rivets from you local dealer or you can replace the cover with a decorative aftermarket cover that uses screws instead of rivets.
usually with LCD monitors there aren't many screws holding them together, instead they are held together with plastic tabs. You need to remove any screws holding it together (if any) and you need to pull the case open with a butter knife or a special pry tool (flat head screwdriver wouldn't be a good choice because it leaves more marks). you need to insert the knife or whatever your using and pretty much pull it apart gently, this isn't easy to do and you can risk ruining the whole screen if your too aggressive when opening it. unless your trying to fix the monitor, you shouldn't open it because it usually will look like **** afterwards.
Most thermostats snap together and can sometimes be really tight. Look closely into the opening between the thermostat and sub base and you will see where the small, plastic hooks are located. A flat tip screw driver works OK for prying them loose. Be gentle though.
In most cases, you can drive without that part in place and see very little difference in engine temp. Your options are, to buy a new dealer part (expensive), find one in a scrapyard that's intact, or get creative and repair the one you have using tin plate, screws and or pop rivets. Zip ties should not be used as the part will flap around as you drive. Air exerts lots of pressure against it and though it looks fine when standing still, it's far different when in motion. Using screws, you can put a flat washer under the head anywhere the hole in the plastic has become too large for the original screw. You can also use self tapping screws next to any fasteners that have failed, but always make sure they aren't long enough to damage anything on the other side of where they are screwed in (lines, wires or the radiator itself).
Fix #1 These are usually riveted on. If you can find a small enough aluminum pop rivet (most lids are aluminum), you could pin it back together with that. The tricky part is ensuring that the rivet allows the vent to rotate between the opened and closed positions. I suggest cutting out two pieces of non-corrugated cardboard from a cereal box and punching out a hole in each the same diameter as the rivet. Use one on each side of the lid for a washer for the rivet. Include an aluminum washer for the tail end of the rivet. Your parts stack from the inside of the lid should be rivet (head end), cardboard washer, vent piece, lid, cardboard washer, metal washer. The pop rivet will be compressed against the metal washer on the outside when you operate the riveting tool. I suggest having the head on the inside of the lid because it will be easier to clean.
After you compress the rivet, tear the cardboard washers out. The vent should now pivot correctly.
Fix # 2 Use a 2-56 x 1/4 stainless steel screw (or similar metric size) and two stainless steel nuts. Assemble the vent to the lid using the screw and one of the nuts. Tighten the nut only until it starts to drag on the vent, then back it off slightly. Next, put the other nut on. Hold the first nut in place and tighten the second nut down onto it to lock it in place on the screw. The vent should still turn freely, but the nuts won't come off without tools if you did it properly.
Do not use plated or plain steel hardware. These will contaminate your food.
Unfortunately, these cases were glued together and put in place by a
series of plastic pins and tabs not meant to be removed. There is no
safe or healthy way of opening the case without causing some serious
damage to the pins holding the inside speaker in place, plus the lip
inside the case itself will break (not unglue). If you are handy with
manual tools, you can use a small spatula and start prying off from
between the case and the front cover at the the center of the speakers
and go around it. You will hear the plastic and pins breaking, but if
you take your time and be patient the cover and case will stay in shape.
I will post a video on youtube on how to do this
I am sorry but while many phones can be opened with some common tools and a little dexterity, that phone model is manufactured and designed in a way where it cannot be opened by a consumer or even a gifted techie without destroying its integrity. It has no screws, and the method to open it without destroying it is completely based upon muscle memory and a specific tool. In addition, even if you were to open it without destroying the plastic you would clean the keys only to have them still barely work. I train technicians to open them, and I have to sit them down with bad ones that they can destroy to practice opening them without tearing them up. Once the plastic tabs that hold them together are busted, the phone won't stay together properly and then your costs just went up to replace the plastic once you finally get it to the repair facility. So the best advice I can give in this case is to send it in for repair so the keypad can be fixed and upgraded. If you go to the Siemens website, and reach the Gigaset area, look for the FAQs and they can direct you to a repair source. Their global site is pretty large, so if you get lost, you can google Siemens Cordless Repair to find a solution.
since u hav removed the mesh and the 4 screws that hold the case of the speaker .As you said that the speaker has no opening points , most companies manufacture the speaker by sandwiching two parts together. In order to open the case of the speaker , you will have to see for a joint line on the edges . it indicates the attachment between the two parts of the speaker . If you find an opening at the back of the speaker as you have mentioned , try to remove the two joints of the speaker by pulling gently at the opposite ends .