Question about Schwinn Scwhinn 26 Inch Womens Coronado Bike

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Schwinn ranger 2.6 and the back brake cable came undone on the left side of the wheel and there is a metal bracket but I am not sure how to put it back together or if I am missing a part. Thanks Kelly

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Kelly, It's pretty hard to know exactly what you need. But you might try to google images for sidepull brakes. I hope this is helpful. Al K

Posted on Nov 09, 2010

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How to fix abs on front brake for 2010 road king?


If you got any magnetism near the left side wheel bearing you will have destroyed its sensing/signalling ability. The magnetic pickup should only go back on one way in one position but check that it is located near the sensing wheel bearing. When it goes on it should be rotated up If the wheel somehow got mixed up and on backwards the magnetic bearing would be on the wrong side, away from the pickup. Check your wiring for damage.

Never pull the wheel speed sensor cable taut or use it to support any other parts.
Install the wheel speed sensor with the index pin on the out-board side or the sensor will be damaged. After the axle is installed rotate the front wheel speed sensor until the index pin makes contact with the shoulder on the fork slider and then route the wheel speed sensor cable up to the lower fork bracket along with the brake hose.

If installing a new sensor on a Road King and other Fork mounted fairing models turn the front wheel to the right fork stop and then feed the connector up through the opening in the front of the lower fork bracket and connect it to the socket housing.

If installing a new sensor on a frame mounted fairing model first turn the front wheel to the right fork stop and then connect the front wheel speed sensor connector and feed the connector under the main wiring harness conduit into the left side of the fairing bracket.

In all cases secure the sensor cable and fender tip lamp wires using
three cable straps as follows by capturing the front wheel
speed sensor cable and brake hose at the brake hose lower crimp and then about the middle of the way between the upper and lower brake hose crimps and securing both the wheel speed sensor cable and the brake hose along with the front fender tip lamp wires, if is has a fender tip lamp. THEN about 2.5 in. (63.5 mm) below the brake hose upper crimp secure the front wheel speed sensor cable, the brake hose and again, if there is a fender tip lamp, the front fender tip lamp wires. The I insert the front wheel speed sensor cable in the clip by pushing on the lip at the rear of the clip to disengage it from the bracket, rotate the tab stamped ABS rearward until the clip is perpendicular to the bracket and install the cable and then rotate the tab forward and apply pressure until the lip engages and then gently pull the cable to verify that the clip is installed properly.

Jun 04, 2014 | Harley Davidson ST3s ABS Motorcycles

1 Answer

Remove rear wheel from 008 streetgide


To remove a 2008 Touring rear wheel FIRST raise the bike with the rear wheel off the ground, remove the saddlebags, inspect the wheel bearings, remove the left side muffler,on (FLHX) models equipped with low profile shock absorbers the remove left side lower saddlebag support rail, if ABS equipped cut the cable strap to release the rear wheel speed sensor cable from the brake hose to the brake caliper, remove the two socket head screws to release the brake caliper from its bracket, remove the brake caliper from the brake disc, pry the inner and outer brake pads back for additional clearance as necessary using a stiff putty knife with a wide thin blade to avoid scoring or scratching the brake disc, set the brake caliper on the passenger footboard, remove the E-clip from the groove at the end of the axle, loosen the cone with an AXLEfNUT TORQUE ADAPTER available from JIMs or H-D to get up between the axle nut and the right side muffler, remove the cone nut and adjuster cam from the axle, rotate the weld nut on the opposite side of the axle in a counterclockwise direction until the wheel is loose, use a soft metal drift to tap the axle towards the left side of motorcycle and catch the external spacer(s) (noting their place and orientation for reinstallation), pull the axle free of the rear swingarm, the caliper bracket, the rear wheel speed sensorf(if ABS equipped), and the wheel hub, keeping the ABS wheel speed sensor and ABS encoder bearing away from al magnetic fields such as magnetic parts trays, magnetic base dial indicators, alternator rotors, etc etc to avoid destroying them, remove the caliper bracket from the anchor weldment on the rear swingarm, move the wheel forward and slip the belt off from the compensator drive sprocket, hold onto the compensator drive sprocket while removing the rear wheel so that the isolators will not fall out, if necessary, remove to remove the brake disc remove the five fasteners and release the disc from the hub after marking the disc and the hub for re-assembly alignment in their original position.

To install a 2008 touring rear wheel FIRST reinstall the brake disc in its original orientation if it was removed and tighten the fasteners alternatively to 30-45 ft-lbs (41-61 Nm), ensure that the compensator sprocket is square and fully seated in its proper position, put the wheel into the rear swingarm and slide it forward and put the belt over compensator sprocket and then move the wheel back to take up the slack in the belt, install the caliper bracket on the anchor weldment of the rear swingarm, apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease onto the axle, the bearing bores and the bore of the spacer sleeve, insert the axle through the left side of the rear swingarm, the thin external spacer, and the rear wheel drive compensator sprocket into the and through the wheel hub left side and out the right side, through the rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped) (the grooves on the external spacer, or index pin on the wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped), are on the outboard side) or the thick external spacer if not ABS equipped, the caliper bracket, and the right side of the swingarm, rotate the axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside and then with the thumb down and the cam forward install the adjuster cam on the end of the axle, avoiding contact with threads apply a thin film of LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE lubricant to the inboard side of the cone nut, install the cone nut on the axle finger tight, obtain torque wrench with 1/2 inch drive head and the AXLE NUT TORQUE ADAPTER, install the torque adapter perpendicular to torque wrench ONLY or applied torque will be inaccurate, insert the tool up between rear wheel and the muffler and onto the cone nut, verify that the adjustment cam just contacts the weld nub on both sides of the swingarm (if necessary, push the wheel forward somewhat to do this), if ABS equipped route the sensor cable forward and outboard of the caliper bracket and then continue forward with it following the top of the swingarm, rotate the wheel speed sensor in a counter-clockwise direction until its index pin makes contact with the caliper bracket at its proper contact point, tighten the cone nut to 15-20 ft-lbs (20-27 Nm), properly position and install the brake caliper, align the holes in the caliper with the holes in the caliper bracket install the two socket head screws and alternately tighten them to 43-48 ft-lbs (58.3-65.1 Nm), install a new cable strap 1.25 in. (31.8 mm) in front of the brake hose crimp capturing the rear wheel speed sensor cable and brake hose together, using a belt tension gauge adjust the drive deflection to FLHR/C 3/8-7/16 inches or 9.5-11.1mm; FLHT/C/U FLTR FLHX 1/4-5/16 inches or 6.4-7.9 mm at the loosest spot in the belt, holding the weld nut on the left side of the axle tighten the cone nut to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm), loosen it nut one full turn, retighten it to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm), recheck the belt deflection, install a newE-clip in groove on right side of axle with the flat side out, on (FLHX), models with low profile shock absorbers properly install and torque into place the left side lower saddlebag support rail, install left side muffler, verify that the exhaust pipes are in alignment and do not contact the vehicle frame or mounted components, tighten the TORCA clamp to 45-60 ft-lbs (61-81 Nm), pump the brakes to position the pad against the brake disc, install the saddlebags and road test the motorcycle for proper operation.

May 05, 2014 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHX Street Glide

3 Answers

The parking brake release cable on my 1997 dodge grand caravan is broken and the brake is stuck in the engaged position. The entire cable assembly (about 12 inches long) has dislodged somehow so there is...


I had the same thing. just remove the cover from under the steering wheel and you can see the ratchet release lever. You can also remove the metal cover that is under the plastic cover for more visibility. now just reach in with a bit of stiff wire with a hook on the end and pull the lever back to you. that is all the cable does, and voila, the brake is released. now you just have to remember not to push it down again (I did!)

Aug 12, 2011 | 1997 Dodge Grand Caravan

3 Answers

E-brake in 93 Ford Ranger doesn't work


The cables are probably stretched if you use it on a regular basis or seized if you are like me and never use it. Crawl under the truck on the driver's side, about 1/2 way to the back and find a steel cable running to the back wheels. Follow it down until it hooks up to 2 cables. Pull on the main cable by hand and watch to see if the other 2 move when you do that. Give it a good yank. If the 2 cables don't move they are seized and need to be replaced. If they move then the main cable is stretched.You can replace it or you can buy a tightener at the auto parts store. It's commonly refered to as a Chevy e-brake cable tightener. It just hooks on the cable and shortens it by tightening a nut on the J hook. You can use more than one if you need it. This would be easier and cheaper than replacing for now. Hope this helps.

Nov 03, 2009 | 1993 Ford Ranger SuperCab

1 Answer

Just got my adult trike a Schwinn Meridian and upon assembing it, the cables on the handle bars got somehow out of place and now the break on the left side is not working. The pad doesnt move to grab the...


Check the manufacturers name on the brake lever assembly. Most will have a website where you can download full installation instructions with detailed illustration. In the absence of manufacturing instructions perhaps the following will help.

In UK the brake on the left side is normally the rear brake but in some other countries it is the front brake. The rear brake cable usually passes from the brake lever through an outer sleeve up to a slotted abutment on the frame. Depending on the frame arrangement it will then pass as a bare wire along the top rail or through a guide slot under the bottom bracket where the pedal cranks are. There is then another sleeved section leading from a slotted abutment (on the frame) up to the brake mechanism where the outer sleeve goes into a cable inlet socket. The free end of the cable is then held by the cable clamp. Before clamping the cable make sure that any brake cable quick-release mechanism is in the closed position and any cable adjusters are screwed in clockwise and then undone by about a half turn. Sometimes adjusters will be located both where the cable leaves the brake lever and enters the brake mechanism. Pull the cable to take out all the slack and tighten the clamp bolt. You may have to do this with the help of a mate to hold the brake blocks reasonably close to the rims. If all is well you should now be able to adjust gap using one of the cable adjusters. Brake mechanisms usually have a Ph1 head screw or screws which allow you to adjust the balance of the brake operation. Adjust these to create equal gaps on both sides of the wheel. The brake should now pull on evenly without pushing the wheel over to one side.

Oct 31, 2009 | Cycling

1 Answer

How to change to rear tire


To remove a 2008 Touring rear wheel FIRST raise the bike with the rear wheel off the ground, remove the saddlebags, inspect the wheel bearings, remove the left side muffler, on (FLHX) models equipped with low profile shock absorbers the remove left side lower saddlebag support rail, if ABS equipped cut the cable strap to release the rear wheel speed sensor cable from the brake hose to the brake caliper, remove the two socket head screws to release the brake caliper from its bracket, remove the brake caliper from the brake disc, pry the inner and outer brake pads back for additional clearance as necessary using a stiff putty knife with a wide thin blade to avoid scoring or scratching the brake disc, set the brake caliper on the passenger footboard, remove the E-clip from the groove at the end of the axle, loosen the cone with an AXLEfNUT TORQUE ADAPTER available from JIMs or H-D to get up between the axle nut and the right side muffler, remove the cone nut and adjuster cam from the axle, rotate the weld nut on the opposite side of the axle in a counterclockwise direction until the wheel is loose, use a soft metal drift to tap the axle towards the left side of motorcycle and catch the external spacer(s) (noting their place and orientation for reinstallation), pull the axle free of the rear swingarm, the caliper bracket, the rear wheel speed sensorf(if ABS equipped), and the wheel hub, keeping the ABS wheel speed sensor and ABS encoder bearing away from al magnetic fields such as magnetic parts trays, magnetic base dial indicators, alternator rotors, etc etc to avoid destroying them, remove the caliper bracket from the anchor weldment on the rear swingarm, move the wheel forward and slip the belt off from the compensator drive sprocket, hold onto the compensator drive sprocket while removing the rear wheel so that the isolators will not fall out, if necessary, remove to remove the brake disc remove the five fasteners and release the disc from the hub after marking the disc and the hub for re-assembly alignment in their original position.

To install a 2008 touring rear wheel FIRST reinstall the brake disc in its original orientation if it was removed and tighten the fasteners alternatively to 30-45 ft-lbs (41-61 Nm), ensure that the compensator sprocket is square and fully seated in its proper position, put the wheel into the rear swingarm and slide it forward and put the belt over compensator sprocket and then move the wheel back to take up the slack in the belt, install the caliper bracket on the anchor weldment of the rear swingarm, apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease onto the axle, the bearing bores and the bore of the spacer sleeve, insert the axle through the left side of the rear swingarm, the thin external spacer, and the rear wheel drive compensator sprocket into the and through the wheel hub left side and out the right side, through the rear wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped) (the grooves on the external spacer, or index pin on the wheel speed sensor (if ABS equipped), are on the outboard side) or the thick external spacer if not ABS equipped, the caliper bracket, and the right side of the swingarm, rotate the axle so that the flat on the threaded end is topside and then with the thumb down and the cam forward install the adjuster cam on the end of the axle, avoiding contact with threads apply a thin film of LOCTITE ANTI-SEIZE lubricant to the inboard side of the cone nut, install the cone nut on the axle finger tight, obtain torque wrench with 1/2 inch drive head and the AXLE NUT TORQUE ADAPTER, install the torque adapter perpendicular to torque wrench ONLY or applied torque will be inaccurate, insert the tool up between rear wheel and the muffler and onto the cone nut, verify that the adjustment cam just contacts the weld nub on both sides of the swingarm (if necessary, push the wheel forward somewhat to do this), if ABS equipped route the sensor cable forward and outboard of the caliper bracket and then continue forward with it following the top of the swingarm, rotate the wheel speed sensor in a counter-clockwise direction until its index pin makes contact with the caliper bracket at its proper contact point, tighten the cone nut to 15-20 ft-lbs (20-27 Nm), properly position and install the brake caliper, align the holes in the caliper with the holes in the caliper bracket install the two socket head screws and alternately tighten them to 43-48 ft-lbs (58.3-65.1 Nm), install a new cable strap 1.25 in. (31.8 mm) in front of the brake hose crimp capturing the rear wheel speed sensor cable and brake hose together, using a belt tension gauge adjust the drive deflection to FLHR/C 3/8-7/16 inches or 9.5-11.1mm; FLHT/C/U FLTR FLHX 1/4-5/16 inches or 6.4-7.9 mm at the loosest spot in the belt, holding the weld nut on the left side of the axle tighten the cone nut to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm), loosen it nut one full turn, retighten it to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.4 Nm), recheck the belt deflection, install a newE-clip in groove on right side of axle with the flat side out, on (FLHX), models with low profile shock absorbers properly install and torque into place the left side lower saddlebag support rail, install left side muffler, verify that the exhaust pipes are in alignment and do not contact the vehicle frame or mounted components, tighten the TORCA clamp to 45-60 ft-lbs (61-81 Nm), pump the brakes to position the pad against the brake disc, install the saddlebags and road test the motorcycle for proper operation.

Feb 27, 2009 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHR Road king

2 Answers

Replace rear struts 1996 buick regal


Here is a link describing your strut replacement. Autozone also has free tool rental for the strut spring compressor if you need it. Thank you, and don't forget to vote. http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800681ba

Jan 29, 2009 | 1999 Buick Regal

3 Answers

Heater core


18901fc.gifHere is an exploded view of the heating/air conditioning blower box. This contraption is located on the passengerside under the dash. I've changed heater cores on other cars but never worked on a caravan so not sure how difficult it'll be. You may need to remove a few cover panels to access this and the heater core #22 is located behind the distribution box #6 containing parts 7-18 and hopefully comes off as a unit. I wouldn't want to put it back together just looking at the pic. You may just need to remove the heater tube cover #4 to access the connections and slide out the core.....NAH couldn't be that simple!!! Hope this was of some help. Good luck.













Oct 18, 2008 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

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