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UHQA-1010B Air handler with heat pump. Unit heats up nicely but once area temp. is met, heater de-energizes but blower continues to run. Opened unit up and blew out with compressed air, and tapped on what looked like a relay but no change. Termostat switch for blower is set to auto. Any answers would help. Also a wiring scematic would help me. Thanks

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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kstfas
  • 75 Answers

SOURCE: Air Conditioner malfunction

Hi, Sounds like you have a short in the control circuit to me. Turn off all power going to the unit. Write down or otherwise mark the wires leaving the control board going to the thermostat. Remove them from the control board. Replace the fuse. Turn power back on and see if the fan still runs. If it does, check and or replace the heat limit switch that brings the fan on during the heat cycle. It may just need adjusted. If the fuse blows, I would think that the control board is probably bad. If it doesn't blow, Remove the thermostat. Leaving all thermostat wires open check them with an Ohm meter. There should be no continuity between them. Twist all the wires together at one end and ohm them again at the other end. You should have complete continuity on all wires. If the wiring checks out, down power the unit. Double check your wire colors and rewire the control board. With all wires open at the thermostat, turn the power back on. Touch the RED wire to the YELLOW wire. The Condensing unit should come on. Touch the RED wire to the GREEN wire. The fan should come on. Touch the RED wire to the WHITE wire. The heat should come on. Down power the unit. Replace the thermostat. Test unit. If the fuse has lasted ok but blows now it is either wired wrong at the Thermostat or the thermostat is bad. I hope I have helped. NOTE: If you can not understand these instructions. Call a licensed Heating / Air conditioning company. kstfas

Posted on Sep 23, 2007

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tborn6
  • 700 Answers

SOURCE: My outdoor heat will not

you need to go oside and look for a red reset button on the unit. you tripped the high ressure switch when you let your filter get that dirty. go check on this and when your done if it still is not working then ask me more.

Posted on Jan 25, 2009

james3751
  • 614 Answers

SOURCE: What is the tonnage of a ruud UHQA 1010B air

1.5 to 2.0 tons

Posted on Jul 21, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: What is the tonnage of a ruud UHQA 1010B air

This unit is designed for 3.5 to 4 tons. The j14's are 1.5 to 2 tons. J17's are 2.5 to 3 tons. A j24 is 5 tons.

Hope this helps, It comes directly from my j21 factory manual on my air handler unit.

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

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Goodman gph1348m41ac unit is blowing cool air in heat mode with mid 30s ambient outdoor temp. I turn it off then on and will usually blow warm air but this cycle is becoming more repetitive. any expert...


A heat pump on the optimal heating day (about 50 degrees ambient) will only deliver approximately 85 degree air as compared to 125 degree air from a fossil fueled furnace. The colder the outdoor air is the less heat there is available to be transferred to the living space. At 30 degrees, the heat transfer capability is getting close to negligible meaning the run cycles will be approaching continuous and eventually as the heat pump along cannot maintain setpoint, the outdoor stat or stats will bring on auxilliary heat in the air handler.

If your ambient temp is below the 'balance point' of the heat pump, the house temp will drop a little lower and most times energize the heat strips through the outdoor t-stat. Your outdoor stat could be set too low for the heat pump to carry the structure all the way down to the balance point so when you turn it off and back on, the lower indoor temp automatically brings on the heat pump plus a heat strip or two, thus the warmer air. Second stage on the stat satisfies due to the heat strip, drops them out of the circuit and the heat pump is left running on first stage heat delivering the perceived cold air.

Your outdoor stat could also be not functioning correctly and not allowing the heaters to come on until the system is turned back on reestablishing the two stage call for heat.

Tons of possibilities and not enough room to list....

Jan 01, 2015 | Goodman Manufacturing Goodman GPH1348M41 4...

1 Answer

Hey, I purchased your Honeywell RTH2510 Thermostat, but I didn't even think to label the wires when I took the old thermostat off. Upon installation of the new Thermostat (2510) the Air Conditioning...


The connections that you really need to reference would be at the air handler itself. That would tell you which wires go outside to the heat pump and which wires go to the air handler. I can however give you some basics that may help.

Heat Pump Wiring
Terminals/Colors/Function
R- Red- 24v power supply. (Usually a jumper between RC/RH)
G- Green- Fan
W- White- Heat (Sometimes W1-W2, first or second stage heat)
Y- Yellow- Cooling (Same applies as above i.e. Y1-Y2)
C- Common (Most people use blue unless it is used for B terminal and sometimes cooling on older 4 wire systems.
B/O- Reversing Valve for heat pump. Either powered heating or powered cooling, depending on system installed.
Aux- Also used for heat.

Note: Considering that the installer had their own way to run all wires, use different wires, connections, etc. This is just a reference to common wiring in the field.

How the most common system is hooked up:
Thermostat:
Red wire goes to R terminal
Yellow wire goes to Y1 or Y2 terminal
Green wire goes to G terminal
White wire usually goes to W1 or W2 terminal
Orange or Black wire goes to B/O terminal
Brown wire usually goes to Aux terminal
Blue wire goes to C terminal, unless its being used as stated above.

This is without using a fossil fuel kit or zone control board.

Where do they go from the thermostat?
Red
goes to the air handler transformer or board and goes outside to heat pump to power low voltage controls.
Yellow wire goes straight outside to Y terminals on heat pump unless going to a board inside first.
Green goes to the air handler fan relay.
Common goes to the air handler and outside to heat pump.
Black or Orange will go outside to heat pump terminals for reversing valve.
White usually goes outside to heat pump,and inside to air handler. Will explain reason further down.
Brown will go to the air handler to the heat relay for the emergency heat.

On a call for heat, with a powered cooling system (more common).
The R, Y, and G terminals energize, sending a signal to start the blower and pull in the contactor outside. Note that the Y terminal is usually cooling, but since this is a powered cooling system, the reversing valve is not energized, causing the system to run in heat mode. If you have powered heating, the reversing valve terminal will energize also. Depending on thermostat, if you set the temp substantially higher than room temp, it may kick on the emergency/aux heat to quickly raise the room temp. On a call for emergency/aux heat, the R, G, and E/Aux terminals are energized, turning on the electric/gas heat instead of the heat pump. This comes in handy since the heat pump can only pull so much heat from outside before its not enough to properly warm the house, usually around 30 degrees outside temp. If you are running the heat pump and the system goes into "defrost", the outside unit will send a signal back to the air handler, through the white wire I mentioned earlier, to tell the emergency/aux heat to come on while it is in defrost mode, providing heat whenever needed.

Again, this is just a reference guide to some basic wiring, but hopefully it will tell you where the problem is or at the least, give you a good start. There are variables in which things can change the wiring like a zoning system or fossil fuel kit. Even then, you should be able to get pretty close. Hope this helps and Happy Holidays!

Dec 07, 2013 | Honeywell Programmable Thermostat Heater

1 Answer

Sometimes the auxilary heat light comes on, and this morning the auxilary and emergency lights were on. Our electric bill has been really high the past two months.


Assuming we are talking about a Heat Pump system with an outdoor condensing unit and an indoor air handler, it is not uncommon for electric bills to escalate during the harder winter months.
Typically, the auxilary heat light energizes whenever the electric strip heaters are in use. These heaters are used to supplement the heat from your heat pump system which will be unable to maintain desired occupied setpoint with outdoor temperatures below 35degF. At outdoor temperatures below 35degF is not uncommon for the heat pump to run non-stop and the electric heaters will cycle on and off as the temp in the house drops between 1/2 to 1 1/2degF below setpoint. The electric heaters will also come on when the system goes into a defrost mode...defrost modes typically last anywhere between 2 - 8 minutes. The emergency lights, depending on your thermostat, will come on whenever the thermostat is placed in EMER HT. Some systems energize the emergency heat lights to indicate there is a problem with your condensor unit.
I suggest you ensure the thermostat is in HEAT mode and not EMER HT mode. Also, while the system is running, step outside and visually inspect your condensing unit. Is it running? Does it appear and sound like it is running normally?
Don't forget your air filter. This is the single most important and most-neglected maintenance item on your system.

If after these steps, you still feel as though you are having problems and would like to try and correct them yourself, please let us know.

I hope you find this information helpful. Good Luck to you! :-)

Feb 26, 2010 | Weather King Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a dyno glo rmc-fa100dlx forced air heater. It will light and work for a few minutes, up to about 5, then it will stop heating and the fan will keep blowing. any ideas? thanks!


If the unit comes on and runs but then shuts down, that sounds like an indication of a high limit trip.

Most, if not all, furnaces have high limit switches that keep a constant check on the temp inside the furnace or air handler. On most systems, once this high limit switch has been made (got to hot), the limit switch breaks control voltage to the heating device (strips, gas, fuel, etc.etc..). The blower motor continues to run until the high limit has dropped in temp and reset itself.

On some models, the high limit is a manual reset, meaning you need to reset the switch yourself or shut the unit off and then back on to reset it.


Check all filters and replace as necessary. Check the coils and fan blades for dirt build-up and cleanliness. Check motor belt (if applicable). If all these fail to solve the problem, then your issue either lies within the blower motor itself not moving enough air for proper heat transfer. Or the high limit switch itself is failing.

Jan 09, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

RUUD heat pump system does not cool properly.


With a heat pump system there are always going to be a back up heat strip inside the Air Handler.

If you detect a faint humming in the Condenser call your local service company and ask them to come and replace your capacitor in the condenser. The humming is from the contactor engaging but not being able to start the compressor due to not having the required Microfarads to start it.

Let me know if this helps

May 07, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Goodman forced air gas furnace not firing


if your power vent moter is not running you should not have have glowing ignitor.Frist the vent moter must close an air prove switch in series with the idnitor .seems you have a stuck air prove switch.Its the one with a hose attached

Apr 04, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

My air handler comes on ,not the outside unit when my thermostat is in the off position even if i turn the thermostat down to 50 and have it turned off the air handler comes on for about 5 to 10 minutes...


If you have a standard thermostat the fan switch is for the air handler only. It completely over rides the thermostat for most settings. Now lets see this is what I'd expect:
fan switch on Indoor fan runs all time
Fan switch auto Indoor fan only runs when thermostat is set to cool or heat and the thermostat is turned up above room temp for heat or below room temp for cooling. In both of these modes the furnace blower comes on and stays on til the room temperature is satisfied. The outdoor unit only comes on for AC the out door unit will not come on for heat or the "on" setting on the thermostat. See exception 1 & 2 below...

Exception 1- (in a heat pump the out door unit runs in both heat and cool mode unless it has emergency heat turned on then it will not come on outside in the heat mode, and depending on the type of heat pump and furnace or air handler it is). A heat pump thermostat usually has "backup heat" and an "emergency heat" setting switch on the thermostat.
Exception 2 - On some thermostats they are made to cycle on the heat if the temperature reaches a preset temp (around 50'f usually but definitely by 40'f). This mode prevents freezing when if instance the homeowner is away or while the home is under construction. In this mode the fan inside can run but the heat usually comes on with it.
Exception3 - On some electric furnaces the heating strips may be individually controlled and thus not all come on at one time. This may give the feel of no heat especially if the room is cold.

Now there may be other exceptions but Ive tried to give you a heads up on some of the most common ones.
If you need more help please post more specifics about your unit/system as to for sure what switches are set to what setting and what is happening with each. My first though was that maybe your system is OK and you needed to know if the thermostat was working properly.

If this helpd you understand your problem would you please give me as hifgh a mark as you can. Thnaks for using fixya and good luck.

Mar 28, 2009 | Carrier Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

WHEN THE HEATER COMES ON THE FAN STARTS INSTANTLY AND BLOWS COLD


Do you have a heat pump? If so this is normal. You are probably used to a gas furnace. There are heat pumps that do have a delay though. Look on the circuit board in the air handler. There may be a set of pins that say 0-30-60-90 yours may be at 0. Also some digital T-stats offer that function for delay off to get the extra heat or cold from the system. Find out what the model number of the air handler and call the Goodman supplier in your area to see if you have these options.
If you have a gas furnace and it's not delaying the blower there is definately something wrong.

Mar 17, 2009 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

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