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Re: Rockford Fosgate P450.4
There is no reset button on the amp.
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low. If both are above 12v, the amp will require servicing.
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Is it the correct size fuse ? Is it the power fuse or remote ? Either way check your connections going into the amp . Try this hook your other amp to the set of wires for the rockford if that amp has a problem its a wireing problem if not chances are its an interal problem on the rockford . Hope this helps !
well if the amp works with the car off and when you start it the fuse blows then you may have alternator issues use a volt meter to check battery voltage is not above 14.5 volts
if the fuse blows when the amp turns on then most likely you have a shorted output section in the amp.
It sounds like you either blew a fuse, or you cooked your amp. The fuse on the P200.2 amp is a 30A fuse, and it sits right next to the power, ground, and remote wire connections on the end. Pull the fuse out and see if it's blown. You should also check any other fuses that you have in the car before the amp.
Short inside one of the transistors. This requires very good soldring skills and electrical know-how, and some thermal paste to go between the heat-sink and the transistor. Unfortunatly this is not a cheap repair, probably cost around 100 dollars.
Watts delivered is a function of the voltage times the current. If the amp was 100 percent efficient, it would need 33 amps at 12V for 400 watts. At 14.4V, it would only need 28 amps. Of course, amplifiers are NOT 100 percent efficient, only about 50-60 percent in many cases, but somewhat higher for monoblocks, maybe 80-90 percent. So you're looking at a fuse in the 60-80A range. In the absense of a specific fuse size from the manufacturer, I'd start the primary fuse at a 60A and if the amp blows it on power up/immediately/frequently, move up to an 80A.
All of the Rockford-Fosgate 2-channel bridgeables I've ever seen show using the left positive (+) and the right negative (-) for bridging. But if it's not shown right on the amp, I'd call or email RF for the correct connection. The new amps do show it.
There is no reset button. If you disconnect all of the speaker wires from the amplifier's speaker terminals and unplug the RCA cables, does the protect light still come on (I assume that you've already replaced the fuse)?