Question about GE 60minute Automatic ShutOff Timer Switch 15069

1 Answer

I am trying to replace an old spring loaded attic fan timer. The old time simply had a black line in and a black line out. There was both a white and red line capped off in the box along with a bare ground wire. I bought a GE 15069 Auto Shut-Off Timer which has a black, white and red line coming out of it. The way I've currently got it wired (erroneously) apparently powers the timer (which will start and run down), but does not shut the power off to the attic fan once the timer hits zero (0). Apparently I've got the power running directly through the timer, uninterupted, since the fan continues to run even after the timer reaches zero. Any thoughts? A different timer?

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1 Answer

The timer is wired differently than the old spring-loaded timer.
This is because the timer has an electronic clock instead of a spring.
The electronic clock needs power just like an alarm clock.
The white wire powers the clock.

Here's the wiring.
Black-timer wire connects to Hot-wire-from-breaker
Red-timer connects to Load (attic fan)
White-timer connects to white Neutral
In absence of a Neutral, connect white-timer to bare ground.

If you have your black-timer and red-timer wires reversed, it might cause the symptoms you describe.
Simply reverse the black-timer and red-timer.

If you want to test your wires to make certain:
Remove timer.
Separate wires for testing.
Turn on power.
Use ordinary tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away.
Power is ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
When tester lights up, that is hot-wire-from-breaker.
Now test hot-wire to each of the other wires (except ground)
When tester lights up, that is Neutral
Not every switch box will has a Neutral
In that case white-timer connects to ground

Posted on Nov 08, 2010

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1 Answer

I want to replace our old carling toggle switch to a new timer switch for an attic fan. I have 2 black wires and one red. My new switch has one black one red and one green wire.....what do I do?


Is the fan 2-speed?
Old switch has 2 black and 1 red... sounds like 2-speed.
One black is probably Hot, and other black and red go to each speed??
Choose 1 speed and wire timer as follows:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-timers.html
Add a comment with more details about the timer you are using, and include if fan is 2-speed and what each wire tests.

Jul 30, 2013 | Electrical Supplies

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Hi, I am trying to install a Leviton time switch. in the wall box I have a single black, a single white and a copper wire. Here's how I plan to wire it up: wall switch black (hot) ...


The white wire is used to power electronics inside timer:

Single pole switch has two insulated wires.
Remove both insulated wires from switch.

Timer black connects to one of the insulated switch wires, or to Hot wire from breaker
Timer red connects to the other insulated switch wire, or to Load wire going to fan, light, motor.
Timer white connects to Neutral wire from breaker box. Neutrals are white wires that are twisted together and pushed to back of box.
If box does not have Neutral wires, then connect timer white wire to bare ground wire.
Timer green connects to bare ground.

Turn power on, and check if timer is working. If timer is not working, then reverse timer black and timer red wires.
This wiring information has been tested and is accurate.
If timer does not function correctly with correct wiring, then move timer to another location to see if timer is defective, if timer does not work on specific Load, then noise or interference on line can be suspect. Also check ratings for timer and compare with Load ratings.

If you have countdown timer connected to whole house motor/fan, then horsepower rating is important consideration. If timer is rated 1/6 HP and whole house fan is 1/2 HP, then timer will not work.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Countdown-timer-horsepower-ratings.html

Apr 14, 2011 | Leviton Timer Switch 5-10-15-30 Minutes, 4...

1 Answer

My Leviton 6260M is wired to a bath fan according to the diagram provided: Green wire connected to ground, White neutrals connected together, Black wire connected to 'line' feed wire, Blue wire connected...


Countdown timers are made to work with bath fans.
Leviton countdown timers are stout product with 1HP rating.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Countdown-timer-horsepower-ratings.html#6200

It sounds like timer is bad.
Wiring sounds good. Make sure you don't have Load and Line wires reversed. Try reversing Load-Line wires and see what happens.
Another thing that affects electronic timers is line noise/interference. If replacement timer does same thing, then noise is suspect. Try timer on another circuit without fan. Try another brand timer. Update to newer LTB60 Leviton timer. Use cheap circuit tester from home center to check outlet on same circuit.

Apr 04, 2011 | Leviton 6260M-T Timer Switch 10-20-30-60...

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I have two of these switches and they both are operating incorrectly. I use them to control bathroom fans in two separate bathrooms, but they both act the same. That is, when I push one of the time...


Leviton countdown timers have additional wire that powers internal electronics.
Leviton timers have red-black-white-green wires (or blue-black-white-green wires)

1) Regular single pole switch has 2 insulated wires. One of these wires is Hot from breaker, and the other goes to Load (fan)
2) Timer green wire connects to bare ground as you know.
3) Hot from breaker connects to timer black wire.
4) Load wire connects to timer red (or blue) wire.

5) Located in back of box are white wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut.
These are Neutral wires. Connect timer white to these wires. This will power timer electronics.
6) If box does not have Neutral wires described above, then connect timer white to bare ground along with timer green wire.

7) Turn power ON and try timer countdown.
If timer does not work, then reverse timer red and timer black wire.

8) If box does not have neutral wires: Image on link below shows similar Intermatic timer:
Image applies ONLY when Neutral is not available.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/EI210-wiring-full.jpg

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
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Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

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I have a wall switch and two outside ligthts. there appers to be two black wires to old switch. Timer has white, black, red, and green. I hagve tried all wiring scemes and get lights to stay and not turn...


You posted under the ST01C timer.
ST01C has black, red and blue wires, and has a battery to run the clock.

You have black, white, red and green.
So your timer has an electronic clock and no battery.

Let's go through the wires one at a time.
You can add a comment and I will help further if needed.

Old switch has 2 black wires.
One of these wire is black-Hot
The other wire is black-to-Load (load is your light, fan, motor)

Black-Hot connects to timer-black wire
Black-to-Load connects to timer-red wire
NOW ... if these wires are reversed, the timer will not operate, so simply reverse the wires.

There are two wires to go:
Timer-green wire goes to bare copper wire.
Timer-white wire is the wire that runs the clock inside the timer. This is just like plugging in your alarm clock so the clock runs.

The timer-white wire connects to the other white wires located inside the box.
These white wires are usually twisted together and covered with a wire nut.
So untwist the wire nut and add the timer-white wire to these wires.
What if your box does not have these other white wires?
Then in that case, connect the timer-white wire to the bare copper and the clock will run.

geno_3245_14.jpg

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I am replacing an old intermatic model EJ341 spring wound timer with a GE15086 digital in wall timer. The old intermatic timer has two black wires from each side (I dont know which one is hot). Each of the...


GE 15086 is a 7-day programmable timer. It has more wires than spring-wound timer because clock motor runs on 120V circuit, just like ordinary electric clock. The clock on spring wound timer operated by a spring.
f7d4104.jpg


If I understand correctly, the old timer has 2 wires. One of these wires is the Hot wire ... and that wire will connect to GE timer black wire.
The other wire from old timer goes to Load ... and that wire will go to GE timer red wire.

Instructions on a lot of these timers say, it timer doesn't work, then reverse the two wires described above ... this is because timer only works when Timer black connects to Hot.

You can also turn on power and test each wire that came off old switch to bare ground wire. When tester lights up, that is Hot wire.

GE timer Green wire connects to bare ground wire.

Moving on to GE timer white wire. This wire is necessary for the clock to run. This wire connects to Neutral wire which is usually white. You can test for Neutral by testing Hot wire to each white wire in box ... when tester comes on, that is Neutral.

If you do not have a white Neutral wire, then connect GE timer white wire to bare ground wire. This is not code, but it will work fine until you hire electrician to run Neutral into box.

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How to wire to attic fan? Old Sping loaded timer has two wire connections Marked LINE and LOAD . There are two Romex- Three wire cables with Black , White (Common) and bare (Grd) wires coming into this box...


OK, your new switch will require the use of a neutral wire. So you will have to do what is called a pigtail. You will have to twist another white wire in with your other white wires to attach your neutrals to your switch. Note: white wires are called neutral not common. Hook the wires that were originally hooked up to your LINE to your HOT (Black) on your new timer, and the what was originally LOAD up to the new timer LOAD. SO as far as wiring all that will change is your white wires that need to attach to your timer NEUTRAL.

Jul 10, 2010 | GE 60minute Automatic ShutOff Timer Switch...

1 Answer

OLD wall timer Model E1020 ticks really loud


You probably can't get the existing mechanical timer to operate any quietier, since it's old and likely starting to wear out. You can either swap the timer out for a new automatic digital timer, or install a standard single pole switch in its' place.

I believe the code you refer to regarding the fan having to be wired onto a timer switch was a local requirement from many years ago.

Some local jurisdictions have impossed more stringent requirements, but frankly, having an exhaust fan is normally a good idea. If the fan is vented into the attic space, it can cause some serious problems in cold weather with condesation of the warm, moist exhaust air.

Building Code requires that bath fans be piped/vented to the outside of the house and not into the attic space.

There are newer preset timer switches that will turn on the exhaust fan for a fixed amount of time, based on which button you push. These are great as they will run the fan long enough to remove condensation from showers, etc.

If you're going to replace the timer, disconnect or turn off the breaker or power to the switch. Then simply install a new timer or switch by connecting the black supply wire to the bottom of the single pole switch, or to one of the black leads of the timer. Then connect the black wire going to the fan to the top screw on the single pole switch, or the other lead on the new timer. The white (neutral) wires should already be connected with a wire nut inside the box. Connect the ground wire to the ground wire in the box and if the switch box is metal, attach the ground wire to the box with a green grounding screw too.

You can now operate the fan with either a manual on/off switch or the new digital timer, whichever you chose to install.

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