Question about Kenmore 72822Gas Dryer
The cycling thermostat or the high-limit thermostat may not be the problem but rather the gas valve solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valve assembly. Disconnect power then verify this condition by bypassing the thermostats. Refer to the image below and locate the thermostats.
Note: This is an image of an electric dryer but the thermostat and the thermal cut-off (cut-out) locations are the same.
Disconnect each of the thermostat wires then connect and insulate them properly. Once done, reconnect power and start the dryer. The gas valve solenoid coils are indeed faulty and both need to be replaced if the problem still persists. Click here for the procedure in replacing the solenoid coils.
Gas Valve Solenoid Coils Replacement Procedure
Either or both of the cycling thermostat and the high-limit thermostat are malfunctioning if the dryer continues to heat up with the thermostats bypassed. Disconnect power then reconnect the cycling thermostat wires but keeping the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The high-limit thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the cycling thermostat is the culprit.
Also do the other way; that is reconnecting the high-limit thermostat wires but keeping the cycling thermostat bypassed. The cycling thermostat is the culprit if the dryer continues to heat up. If not, then the high-limit thermostat is the culprit.
Replace the faulty thermostat and it should solve the problem.
Posted on Nov 09, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
thiknin you need a service guide , not owners manual( only tell how to operate} ther is a schematic/ wiring diagram locate with inthe console itself usually taped to the back wall behind the timer
Posted on Apr 03, 2008
SOURCE: Kenmore Dryer Model 110
I found the solution to be very informative and helpful. However, I checked the resistance of the heater element and it is about 10 ohms, and is not open. The TCO resistance is about zero. What about the thermostat? No values were given to check it for, but I did check it's resistance and it was also close to zero. The thermostat sort or "rattles" when I shake it; is that normal?
I pulled the heater element out and looked at it, and can see no visible damage. Also checked the air outlet and hose - no blockage in the hose and the air output at the dryer seems fine.
What else could be causing the dryer to not heat. Have checked at all cycles and temperature settings (low, medium and high)?
Posted on Sep 16, 2008
Have you checked the lint trap and also the vent hose? If you have yet to do that try it. Also make sure that the vent line is not crushed. It needs to be wide open
Posted on Feb 10, 2009
check to make sure you dont have a blown fuse or a triped breaker if they are fine if you have a volt meter take the back panel off on the control are or if it is the other kind losen up the two screws in the back of the control area and when you get it lifted up make sure unpluged then put the volt meter on the beep mode when probes touch then put it on the two spots on the swicth and push the button if it beeps it is good if it dont it is bad and that part dont cost too much another thing you should check before you do all that check make sure you have 220 volts on that plug if the switch is good and you have 220 volts it probably the motor or the timer they both or expensive
Posted on Jun 07, 2009
need to check vent system. restricted air flow
will reduce the amount of heat unit will give in result dry time will be extended. if no heat is detected then the thermal fuse needs to be replaced. thermal fuse blows when there is not enough air flow over heating element. meaning there is a restriction in the venting system.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
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Click on the below link to see the diagram where the thermostat is located.
Part number 8 is the thermostat on the diagram. If the unit is not getting hot, you can use an Ohm Meter to check for continuity. If the thermostat reads open or no connection, the unit is bad. If you do not have an Ohm Meter you can temporarily tape the connection on one of the thermostats leads to the other to see if it starts to warm up. I would suggest you use electrical tape and perform this operation with the unit unplugged then plug the unit back in order to test it. Do not run the dryer for more than a few minutes, or you may have to call the fire department. If it warms up after a few minutes the thermostat is defective and needs to be replaced.
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