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WASHER MODEL LWA50W WASHER FILLS, BEGINS TO AGITATE, THEN STOPS. AFTER A "COOL DOWN" PERIOD IT WILL WORK FOR A SHORT TIME BUT HAS AN ELECTRICAL BURNING SMELL.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1314 Answers

SOURCE: washing machine smells like burning rubber!

sounds like you have a broken motor coupling while your down to the pump check for something jamming the pump here is the procedure First unplug the washer and turn off the water. If you have a shop vac take the drain hose out of the drain,and through the drain hose vacuum the water out of your washer. If you don't have a shop vac go to the auto parts store and buy a pair of radiator hose clamps . Then facing the washer locate the two screws. They will either be in the front or rear of the control panel and back them out far as you can. Once you have done that pull the control panel slightly forward, and tilt it back on the hinges. Now unplug the lid switch wire but don't forget to plug it back when your done. Next locate at the rear of the washer body the two gold clips then push forward, and take careful note of how they fit. Then pop them out with a screw driver tilt the washer body forward at 45 degree angel and walk forward with the body, and set it down. Now you will see the white pump and motor assembly. You should see two clips holding the pump to the motor pop them off, and pull the pump off the motor shaft. Now if you fell the need to remove the pump use the radiator hose clamp. take them and clamp the hose coming from the tub but its not necessary for the repair. Next disconnect the wiring harness from the motor (note the position of the harness for reassembly). Remove the two 5/16 inch screws from the motor clamps and pop the clamps off. Once that is complete, remove the motor put the new coupling on the motor and transmission shaft. I use a socket and a hammer

Posted on Jan 20, 2008

IFIXALL
  • 868 Answers

SOURCE: maytag washer

replace the micro switch and your problem is solved.Its a very small switch right next to your door switch and fuse.It has 3 wires and must be replaced to fix this problem.

Posted on May 23, 2008

Sea Breeze
  • 4654 Answers

SOURCE: Electrical Burning smell when agitating, trips breaker.

Send your complete model number, just to make sure we are working on same washer.
First check the lid latch switch by unplugging washer first and remove the font panel. Look up to where the switch is mounted. I am not positive that is your [problem but know there has been many problem with that switch. It will begin to melt ad cause the power to motor to be lost in a bad connection.

Posted on Mar 24, 2009

  • 130 Answers

SOURCE: crown series 12 cycle washer will not agitate and smells like something is burning like a for instance a vacumme belt kinda smell in that cycle it spins fine fills fine drains fine but just makes a so

It doesn't agitate If your washer doesn't agitate, check these:

Lid switch
Motor coupler
Belts
Clutch
Drive motor
Drive pulleys
Transmission
Agitator
Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. 

Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it.

Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)

Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.

Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. 

Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.

Transmission The transmission could have either of these problems:

  • Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may not agitate properly or at all.


  • The transmission may have a worn or broken gear, or some other internal problem.


If you suspect a transmission problem, you may have to call a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.

Agitator The inside of the agitator--where the transmission shaft attaches--can become worn, and strip out the spline that allows the agitator to properly grip the shaft. Then the transmission shaft rotates back and forth as it should, but the agitator doesn't move properly. If this happens, you may need to replace the agitator and/or the transmission spline.

Posted on May 07, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: ultimate care ll washer fills and agitates fine.

Check your lid switch. If the washer fills and agitates, but stops at the rinse cycle, or, if the washer fills, then stops and will NOT drain, this is a common symptom of a lid switch malfunction. The following link explains how to access and/or replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.

A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The part number for the model you have listed is 8054980. The average price is about $20 - $30. Prices differ between these sites, so shop around for the best price.

This is a very simple repair, but if you have questions, please let me know. If your model number differs from the one you have this question listed under, please post back with your correct information, so that I can provide you with better assistance. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Oct 28, 2009

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1 Answer

The washer will fill then drain at the beginning of the cycle never going into the cycle. Periodically it will work from start of the cycle and agitate then stop with a full tub of water. I can open and...


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Hello,

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but what your describing is a classis sign of a bad motor. When the motor is bad it will run will its cool...when it heats up it shuts off and will restart for a short time when colled off till once again hot and shuts off again.


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Maytag washer, model: LAT8415AAE top loader. Washer fills with water but will not start agitating,spin or drain.


Check lid switch. Most will not run with lid open and the switch may not be pressed down when door is closed

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Frigidaire (LTF2940E) Washer starts, stops, starts, stops...


The cycle doesn't advance When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:

  • It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.


  • It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.

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Whirlpool washer fills, begins to agitate, then drains


Water siphoning out the drain line
If the water is continues to fill and water is draining while it is filling or agitating, Check the height of the stand pipe. It should be about 36" above the floor. If the height is correct it may need to have an anti-siphoning valve installed into the drain line.
moz-screenshot.jpgThe washer fills and drains at the same time only on the rinse cycle.
Shut the machine off with timer during this period and raise the drain hose. If the water continues to drain, you will need to install an anti-siphon kit.


Please leave a solved rating before you sign out

Jan 31, 2009 | Whirlpool LBR4121JQ Top Load Washer

3 Answers

Agitator not working


There are several things that can cause your machine to fail to agitate. First of all, you need to ask yourself a few of these questions:

1. Does the washer fill normally, initiate agitation cycle and just the agitator is not moving? If so, the transmission and motor coupling are likely good and the agitator has probably worn out the dogs that cause it to grip properly. The agitator dogs will need to be replaced and you shouldn't need a new agitator. (rough estimate = $5.00 to $6.00).

2. Does the washer fill normally, but stops when the agitation cycle is to begin? If so, I would suspect a faulty lid switch. The lid switch will allow the washer to fill, but will not advance the timer beyond that point on some models. (rough estimate = $35.00).

3. Does the washer fill normally and makes a loud grinding noise when the agitation cycle begins? If so, I would suspect your motor coupling is bad and needs replaced. (rough estimate = $18.00 to $20.00).

4. Does the washer fail to fill at all? If so, I would suspect a bad fill valve, pressure switch remaining shut off and/or timer. (rough estimate for fill valve = $35.00, timer = abt $100.00).

These questions are not all inclusive, but these are some of the more common problems I have encountered. If you can provide me with a little more symptom elaboration, I can lead you in the right direction and get a part number and a better price for you. I will need your EXACT model number (located somewhere along the lid opening. Post back with your comments if you need my assistance. A good majority of the problems associated with Whirlpool top loaders can be easily repaired by the average consumer without assitance from a repairman. I hope this information is helpful to you.

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Begins to agitate but stops


The motor could be drawing too much current and causing the overload relay to trip. You will need to get an authorised techinician to test the motor.

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