Question about GE Profile 23.1 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator with Thru-the-Door Ice and Water - High-Gloss White

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Side by Side GE Refrigerator freezer will not defrost which allows frost/ice to build up. I have cleaned all the areas behind the unit as well as under the unit. After I manuely defrost the freezer it will last about 2-3 months before the frost/ice builds up to the point where stop air circulations. My modle number is: GSS201EMB WW. Serial number is FD264289. Thank you.

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The defrost circuit has failed in your fridge. Typical failure is with the defrost heating element. To troubleshoot, you need to remove the remove the contents of your freezer section and remove the freezer back panel to access the evaporator coil. You will need a hair dryer to melt the ice on coil. The heating element is attached to the coil. Use a meter to confirm that the element is bad. Hope this helps you.

Posted on Nov 08, 2010

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GE GSL22JFTABS Frost buildup on back wall of freezer and ice maker not making ice


Your unit is not defrosting, causing the unit to build up ice and not allow the air to flow. There are 3 possibilities, listed with the most likely first.
1. The DEFROST HEATER in the freezer section, just behind the cover along the back wall of the freezer.
2.The DEFROST BI-METAL which is just about the HEATER, it is a small round thermostat that keeps the HEATER from getting too hot
3. If both of those parts are good, then you have a bad MAIN BOARD. The board regulates the defrost cycle, which replaced the older defrost timers.

May 20, 2012 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Ice maker not working, newly purschased, put in


Hello there:
A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas: Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
So make sure to check these really good and please let me know how this is going so i can continue to help you if needed
Best regards michael


Aug 01, 2010 | GE Profile 22.2 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

The refrigerator freezer is heavily frosting I cleaned it out and it is still frosting. What should I do?


Sir,

If the freezer fan is running (when the compressor is running), read on, otherwise replace the freezer fan. The defrost system has failed. There are three components, and I recommend replacing all three. These include a defrost timer (usually located somewhere in the food compartment, on the rear of the fridge, or behind the kickplate), and a defrost heater and defrost bi-metal (both located in the freezer section where the coils are. I recommend you unplug the unit overnight to allow the ice to melt before doing this repair.

You have a defrost problem which is common to all frost free refrigerators. To get you through until a diagnosis can be made, remove all the food from your freezer section and then the rear evaporator panel. With a hair dryer, remove all the frost you see behind the panel. Put it back together and your unit will work again for about 5 days until it start building up with frost again.

Thanks
Good luck

Aug 17, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fridge-side not cold enough


A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem


Jul 29, 2009 | Hotpoint HSS25GDMWW Side by Side...

1 Answer

Refrig not cold enough, ice buildup on banck panel of freezer


ice build up means your refrigerator is not going through defrost cycle. you have ice build up on evaporator which restricts your cold air flow into the fresh food side. check defrost timer, defrost thermostat located on evaporator behind the wall where your getting frost. check defrost heater. it wraps under the evap.

Jun 21, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

2 Answers

My GE fridge is not defrosting the coils in the back. What's up?


if u have frost build up in the freezer it will affect the temperature
and it needs to defrost
problems could be
defrost timer.
thermostat.
terminator.
heater s.
unit problems (unlikely) if even frost coating.

Jun 16, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Ge refrigerator & freezer not cooling - frost build up on back wall of freezer


You probably have a bad defrost heater behind back wall of the freezer if you turn the unit off and let it defrost a fan will help speed this up the unit will run for about 2 weeks giveing you time to get a defrost heater GE have glass tube heaters and they are bad about going out good luck

Mar 31, 2009 | GE GSS23SGSSS Stainless Steel Side by Side...

1 Answer

The freezer has ice build up on vents


Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. 
also click the links below for more help
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Dec 06, 2008 | Kenmore 53642 / 53644 Side by Side...

1 Answer

Side by Side Kenmore Elite


Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

if this helps please vote me a fix ya

Jul 18, 2008 | Kenmore 55612 / 55614 / 5561 / 655619 Side...

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