Question about Generac Guardian Electrical Supplies
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Troubleshoot like this:
1 - With the generator control in Auto, jumper from terminal 3 to 4 on the control board. Generator should start without transfer switch doing anything. If it won't you have a bad controller board.
2 - If the Generator started, remove the jumper - controller is OK. Next go to the 1st transfer switch and find the remote start terminals. These will be the same wires that were connected to controller terminals 3 and 4 at the generator. Use your jumper wire to connect them and see if the generator starts, if not there is something wrong between the switch and the generator, probably a broken wire.
3 - Don't forget to check the other switch, the remote start terminals of the switches connect in parallel across controller terminals 3 and 4 so that either switch can start the generator.
4 - Each switch should have some sort of a test button/switch, power down as much of the building as you can, then run the test function of each switch one at a time. Don't stand directly in front of the switch while you do this.
Posted on Nov 29, 2008
Are the relays perment on the board or are they seperate from the main board? If they are mounted to the board, you will need to replace the board. Sounds like you are getting a call to the relay but none leaving so this would indicate that you have a bad relay switch.
Posted on Mar 21, 2009
Your particular model generator uses the output of the generator to decide if the engine is running or not. You need to look at wires S15 and S16 at the control board to see if you're getting 120VAC while the generator is running. A quick simple test is to just see if there is output at the power wires that go to the transfer switch from the generator. The thing you don't say that ought to be happening is that the control board should crank the engine 3 times with a 15 sec or so pause in between crank attempts, then it should shut down and light up the "fault" lamp and quit.
Bottom line is that if you're getting 240 VAC across the output at the breaker, you've probably got a bad controller or wiring to it broken, otherwise you've got some kind of excitation problem keeping you from making electricity.
Posted on May 03, 2009
SOURCE: guardian rv generator
Your control board is faulty. Try to power up the ingnition coil as well as your fuel pump. If this does not get the engine running then you have major engine problems.
Posted on May 19, 2009
Relays are wired correctly (all except one) what you are doing is supplying the one side of the relay contacts with +12V and one side of the relay energising coils with +12V. the other side of the relay coils are switched on independantly by the -0V from the various outputs from the alarm unit. When relay coils are energised +12V is output through the relay contacts to ACC (accessories) IG1 & IG2 and ST (starter) in sequence. The problem with the cicuit seems to be the IG1 & IG2 relay this seems to just switch +12V between IG1 & IG2 one of them remains on all the time according to weather the relay is energised or not - this is not right. So I have wired the n/o contact of the relay to IG (1 or 2) wire which controls the ignition circuit - this is usually the last ignition wire before the starter wire on the ignition switch.
Posted on Jun 21, 2009
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