Question about Generac Guardian Electrical Supplies

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Guardian plus standby 7000w NG Model# 04389-3 Serial#4273176 I am not reading any 12volts coming from the control board to the transfer relay coil. Circuit # 23 and 194. As far as I can tell the 12v used in this circuit is generated at the control board then goes to control relays and transfer switch. If I am correct then the control board needs replacing but I would like to verify this and be sure I am working this repair correctly before I order any parts. Thank you, Jeff Calma Birmingham Alabama

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

CarlGehrke
  • 169 Answers

SOURCE: commercial generator 20kv not working properly

Troubleshoot like this:
1 - With the generator control in Auto, jumper from terminal 3 to 4 on the control board. Generator should start without transfer switch doing anything. If it won't you have a bad controller board.

2 - If the Generator started, remove the jumper - controller is OK. Next go to the 1st transfer switch and find the remote start terminals. These will be the same wires that were connected to controller terminals 3 and 4 at the generator. Use your jumper wire to connect them and see if the generator starts, if not there is something wrong between the switch and the generator, probably a broken wire.

3 - Don't forget to check the other switch, the remote start terminals of the switches connect in parallel across controller terminals 3 and 4 so that either switch can start the generator.

4 - Each switch should have some sort of a test button/switch, power down as much of the building as you can, then run the test function of each switch one at a time. Don't stand directly in front of the switch while you do this.


Posted on Nov 29, 2008

  • 659 Answers

SOURCE: mastercool swamp cooler fan doesnt come on.

Are the relays perment on the board or are they seperate from the main board? If they are mounted to the board, you will need to replace the board. Sounds like you are getting a call to the relay but none leaving so this would indicate that you have a bad relay switch.

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

CarlGehrke
  • 169 Answers

SOURCE: Guardian model #004722-0 liquid cooled generator.

Hi Mike,
Your particular model generator uses the output of the generator to decide if the engine is running or not. You need to look at wires S15 and S16 at the control board to see if you're getting 120VAC while the generator is running. A quick simple test is to just see if there is output at the power wires that go to the transfer switch from the generator. The thing you don't say that ought to be happening is that the control board should crank the engine 3 times with a 15 sec or so pause in between crank attempts, then it should shut down and light up the "fault" lamp and quit.
Bottom line is that if you're getting 240 VAC across the output at the breaker, you've probably got a bad controller or wiring to it broken, otherwise you've got some kind of excitation problem keeping you from making electricity.

Regards,
Carl

Posted on May 03, 2009

mamicheddy
  • 79 Answers

SOURCE: guardian rv generator

Your control board is faulty. Try to power up the ingnition coil as well as your fuel pump. If this does not get the engine running then you have major engine problems.

Posted on May 19, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: NEED CORRECT WIRING DIAGRAM FOR CAR ALARM WITH REMOTE STARTER

Relays are wired correctly (all except one) what you are doing is supplying the one side of the relay contacts with +12V and one side of the relay energising coils with +12V. the other side of the relay coils are switched on independantly by the -0V from the various outputs from the alarm unit. When relay coils are energised +12V is output through the relay contacts to ACC (accessories) IG1 & IG2 and ST (starter) in sequence. The problem with the cicuit seems to be the IG1 & IG2 relay this seems to just switch +12V between IG1 & IG2 one of them remains on all the time according to weather the relay is energised or not - this is not right. So I have wired the n/o contact of the relay to IG (1 or 2) wire which controls the ignition circuit - this is usually the last ignition wire before the starter wire on the ignition switch.

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

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Hi,
This sounds a little like a bad wiring problem between the transfer switch and the generator. But before I leap to any unfounded conclusions let's make sure I understand just which Guardian generator and transfer switch you have. The generator I think you have is an air conditioner sized box that has a 2 cyl air cooled Generac GT990 engine in it. The control panel has a 15 amp fuse, and maybe a 7 amp one, some LED indicators, a 3 position rocker switch (manual,off,auto), and a momentary set exercise switch. If you look inside your transfer switch there is the transfer mechanism, a single relay, either 2 or 4 fuses, and a terminal board where 4 small control wires connect to the generator. The control wires will be labeled N1, N2, 193, and 23.
If all of that is true then I'll also assume that the generator is blinking all of the LEDs and as soon as you put the rocker switch in the manual position the generator starts and the transfer switch moves to the "generator" position. It shouldn't do that, manual means switch the switch manually too. :-)

Let's take care of the exercise setting first. Switch the main output breaker of the generator to the "off" position, this prevents the transfer switch from activating even if the generator runs. Next put the generators rocker switch into the "Auto" position and wait at least 1 minute, if the generator starts we have to fix the wiring between the N1 and N2 terminals in the transfer switch and the matching terminals in the generator before we can proceede. If luck was with us and the generator is just blinking its LEDs at you, press and hold the set exercise switch for 30 seconds, you're reseting a "watchdog" type circut so it has to be for the whole 30 seconds. When you let go of the set exercise switch the LEDs should blink another 10 times or so, then the generator should start and run its exercise for 12 minutes more or less and then it'll shut down. At that time the only LED that should be lit is the green "system ready" one and it should be steadily lit. Remember to close the output breaker again.

Next let's address the transfer switch issue. If I've understood you correctly, the transfer switch moves anytime you turn the generator on. The only reason a regular old RTS type transfer switch could do this is that it's being commanded to transfer. It works like this, the 2 coils that move the transfer mechanism get powered by the source we're trying to switch to, once the switch gets into the position it's going a pair of limit switches disconnect it from the power supply so that the coil is only "live" during a transition. Spring loaded contacts hold the switch in either position once it's more than halfway towards either one. The relay inside the box is also in line with the limit switches so that if the relay is deenergised the switch will try to get to the utility position and stay there, it can't if there is no utility power to drive the transfer coil. On the other hand if the relay is energised, the switch will try to get to the generator position and stay there, if there is no power from the generator it can't because the generator is what drives that bottom transfer coil. So I think that for whatever reason the relay in your transfer switch is staying energized when we don't want it to be.
On the terminal board inside the transfer switch you should see terminals labeled 194 and 23, these are the power to the relay coil (194), and the ground to transfer signal (23). With the generator set to off, and a fairly quiet room, disconnect the wire from terminal 23, if you can hear the relay coil click on and off when you touch the wire to terminal 23 there is something wrong with the wiring at the generator end of things. You should also see 12 volts DC between terminal 194 and ground, this comes from the generator too.

If the relay didn't click back and forth above check it by using a short piece of wire to connect terminal 23 to ground, if the relay isn't energised when terminal 23 is grounded and deenergized when terminal 23 is open you either have a bad relay or a problem in the grounding of your system. To get a bad relay fixed for free call up Guardian, register the generator (you'll need proof of purchase), and get them to tell you where your nearest warrenty service person is. If you tell him about this post he'll bring a relay with him when he comes to you.

If you're satisfied that the relay in the switch is working properly, we're on the trail of a wiring problem at the generator end of things. If the generator has just been installed you should carefully check that wire 23 hasn't been connected to terminal 0 at the generator terminal block. It's easy to get this connection wrong when doing th e install. The other thing that can go wrong is that the wire can get pinched inside the conduit and short to ground. To check this disconnect both ends of wire 23 and measure between either one and ground, you should get nearly infinite resistance.

If you've proved to yourself that all of the wiring is correct, and the generator is properly grounded, you probably have a broken control board in the generator. To get the control board replaced use the same procedure as the relay above.

If that doesn't get this resolved for you post a comment and we'll try a different approach.

Regards,
Carl

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1 Answer

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That sounds just about right, if the relay contacts get welded together it sometimes takes out the driver on the printed circuit board. As you found out, 12vdc from 23 to 194 makes the transfer switch move to the Generator position, relay not energized makes the ATS move to the Normal position.

You can make a nice test function by installing a 10 amp contact switch in series with either the N1 or N2 terminals. When the switch is open the generator thinks the Normal power has failed.

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