Question about Toshiba 42H81 42" Rear Projection Television

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The main cable along our corridor were burn off (neigbour) side, suddenly my socket outlet safety fuse were blow .I change the fuse and it back to normal but my TV no respond , no light on the control panel, thus, can't on it now.How , to resume back. Thnak you.

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Try to open the back cover of your tv and check in the power supply section for any busted fuse. Replace it with same equivalent and run it again.

Posted on Nov 08, 2010

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Frigidaire FEF365BGWC bake element went out when pulling out I forgot to unplug from wall. Sparks flew . Now nothing is working. It's getting power from wall.


Check all of your high limit safety switches. Possibility you may have fried the transformer on the main control board

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Car wont crank or start or jump start


ah and easy one, dead = easy.
but made impossibe by not telling year. 1986 to present.. wow, !!!!
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the head lights on cars is a hot all the time feature, (safety)
and simple,
you blew the main fuse in the main engine bay fuse box.
tell year, and can tell exact fuse.

or login to alldata.com and see wiring , primary and HL.
safety hint 2:
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Feb 04, 2014 | Acura RL Cars & Trucks

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My power outlet stopped working in my 2008 jeep patriot after I plugged in an air compressor


Use a testlight to check for power at the outlet. Clip or hold the black lead of tester to the side of the lighter case, and touch the probe to the very back of the socket(don't touch the sides with probe, or you will blow the fuse.) With key on, testlight should be brightly lit. If no power there, check the ground wire and power wire to the socket.

Dec 31, 2011 | Jeep Patriot Cars & Trucks

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The wires come off the pump so i put them back on now i got nothing working


Also,
please note that all electrical wiring and installation details given on diydata.com is for information purposes only. From 1st January 2005, the Building Regulations Part P requires, in England and Wales, that only certified persons can carryout electrical installation work, or the work must be certified upon completion - see this page for more details.

Ring circuit

(1) The ordinary wall sockets around the house are normally connected to a ring circuit (also referred to as a ring main). The ring circuits of a domestic property supply the socket outlets and fixed appliances in the premises.

(2) The 'ring' is formed by the cable going from the consumer unit to the first socket, then on to the second socket and then the next socket etc. until the cable returns to the consumer unit. This means (in simple terms) that every socket on the ring circuit has two cable routes back to the supply. The cable of the ring circuit consists of a red (live) wire, a black (neutral) wire and a bare copper earth wire, all three being enclosed by an outer PVC sheathing. The cable used in domestic ring circuits is either 2.5sq mm or 4.0sq mm twin core and earth, these are rated (in free air) at 24amps or 32amps respectively.

(3) Each ring circuit is protected by a 32 amp fuse or trip fitted in the consumer unit. Modern installations incorporate a Residual Current Device (RCD) before the consumer unit which trips the whole system off if a fault is detected.

(4) In older houses the cabling for ring circuits (and other circuits) may be fed through the wall cavity with the cables coming into the back of the wall mounted socket. This is unacceptable in new premises and extensions. It is now considered that cables within the cavity may become wet causing the insulation of the cable to break down and moisture running down the cable into the socket. When rewiring older houses, new cables should not be run through the cavity, they should be run through new ducting embedded in the inner wall surfaces or under floorboards.

(5) A ring circuit is considered to be rated at 30amps (7200 watts). A ring may serve up to 100 m sq of floor area and, in theory, may have any number of sockets outlets or fused connection units connected to it. With each socket outlet is normally rated at 13 amps, as a 'rule of thumb', they are limited to under twenty outlets, it is unlikely that the variety of domestic appliances being used at any one time will exceed 30amps. The length of cable used in a ring circuit is limited to 50 metres for circuits protected by an MCB. The sockets are normally mounted flush with the wall although surface mounted boxes are often easier to fit when sockets are added to the circuit. .

(6) High power electrical appliances (such as cookers, showers etc.) should not be connected to a ring main even if they use less current that the 30 amp rating of the ring circuit. Connection of such appliances will reduce the number of other appliances that can be use simultaneously and will lead to nuisance trips at the consumer unit.

(7) It is advisable to have at least two ring circuit in all premises, in multi floor houses, one for each floor. The kitchen may have a large number of electrical appliances so a separate ring circuit for the kitchen may also worthwhile, this has the added benefit that a freezer will not be affected if there is a fault elsewhere. A single ring circuit should serve a floor area no greater than 100sq m (or 120sq yd).

(8) In the UK, plugs used on a modern ring circuit have square pins and each plug is fitted with either 3 or 13 amp fuses. The correct fuse should always be fitted to suit the appliance, 3 amp fuses for appliances rated up to 750 watts, (lamps and clock radios etc.) - 13amp fuses for larger appliances up to 3000 watts.

(9) Spur extensions can be connected to the ring circuit. A spur is a socket connected into the ring by a single cable run so the socket does not have the full benefit of two cable routes to the consumer unit. Spurs are often used when a socket is added, it is easier to connect using a single cable rather than extending the ring circuit to include the new socket. A spur extension can be connected to the ring circuit provided that it supplies only 13 amp socket outlet (although that can be a double socket outlet) or one fixed appliance. Over the whole ring, the total number of spurs must not exceed the number of socket outlets directly on the main ring. No more than two separate spurs may be connected from each outlet on the ring.

Removal of the front of a wall socket will give an indication of the circuit connected to it:

A single cable connected to the terminals indicates that it is an existing spur.
Two cables may indicate either that it is on a main ring circuit OR that it is a spur with another spur connected to it. This is not a recognised configuration but possible if both spur sockets are single sockets.
Three or four cables normally indicate a socket on a main ring circuit with one or two spurs running from it.
If the wiring has been changed by a previous diy'er, it may be possible to identify any added cables and then deduce the original circuit.

Ring circuit fused outlet units

Where connection to a fixed appliance is required, a fused outlet unit may be fitted to the wall (rather than a plug socket) and connected into the ring main. These outlets require the correct fuse rating for the appliance and are connected to the appliance by a cable or flex. The outlet may be switched or unswitched and may be fitted with an indicator light to show when the supply is connected.

Where a flex is taken to a heater of any sort (e.g. night store heater) the flex must be of a special 'high temperature' type suitable for the elevated temperatures encountered. Use of ordinary flex will result in the insulation breaking down causing the flex to become dangerous.

A clock outlet is a similar type of unit, but with a small fuse fitted in a special plug connected to the flex. The plug may be retained in the socket by a screw or knurled thumbscrew. Though called a clock outlet, they are also suitable for other small low current appliances such as extractor fan units, door bells.



High Power circuits.

Within domestic premises, there may be a number of high wattage appliances, the most common being an electric cooker, immersion heater and electric shower. Each of these appliances should be connected to the consumer unit using a dedicated fuse/trip and cable run. The installation instructions for the appliance should detail the wattage of the appliance (which will also normally be shown somewhere on the appliance), the amperage of the fuse/trip and the size of cable required. Any switches on these circuits must also be of a suitable current rating. Source(s): http://www.diydata.com/planning/ring_mai...

May 17, 2011 | Hoover Washing Machines

1 Answer

All of a sudden the microwave will not coming on at all no clock no nothing, it completely lost power. I've tried a different outlet and it has no power. Did it blow up?


Dead appliance, power on wall outlet.

YOUR SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT!

Attempt this only if you are competent.

If your appliance has absolutely no functions at all, remove it from the mains supply, remove the case and see where the mains lead goes in to the appliance and follow the cable until you find the main fuse.
ONLY USE THE SAME TYPE AND RATING OF FUSE TO REPLACE IT.
The usual cause of this fuse failure is the door switches are contaminated or sticking. Check the door switches before putting power back on to the appliance.
Hope this helps.

Mar 07, 2011 | Tappan Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

My Advantium suddenly stopped working while using it. Acts as if it is unplugged. I checked the electric circuit and surgeprotector they are okay. It acts as if it blew a fuse, but I don.t know where...


Dead appliance, power on wall outlet.

YOUR SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT!

Attempt this only if you are competent.

If your appliance has absolutely no functions at all, remove it from the mains supply, remove the case and see where the mains lead goes in to the appliance and follow the cable until you find the main fuse.
ONLY USE THE SAME TYPE AND RATING OF FUSE TO REPLACE IT.
The usual cause of this fuse failure is the door switches are contaminated or sticking. Check the door switches before putting power back on to the appliance.
Hope this helps.

Mar 02, 2011 | GE Advantium 120 Convection/Microwave Oven

1 Answer

The model R1750 Has no power. There is power at the wall outlet. is there a reset or way to get micrwave on?


I expect you will find the door interlock switches caused the main fuse to blow.
Check and replace the faulty switches.

Dead appliance, power on wall outlet.

YOUR SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT!

Attempt this only if you are competent.

If your appliance has absolutely no functions at all, remove it from the mains supply, remove the case and see where the mains lead goes in to the appliance and follow the cable until you find the main fuse.
ONLY USE THE SAME TYPE AND RATING OF FUSE TO REPLACE IT.
The usual cause of this fuse failure is the door switches are contaminated or sticking. Check the door switches before putting power back on to the appliance.
Hope this helps.

Feb 14, 2011 | Sharp R-1750 Microwave Oven

1 Answer

I have a GE Advantium Oven that just suddenly quit working...no signs of life. Could it be a fuse and if so, where is it located on the unit and where can I find one to replace it?


Dead appliance, power on wall outlet.

YOUR SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT!

Attempt this only if you are competent.

If your appliance has absolutely no functions at all, remove it from the mains supply, remove the case and see where the mains lead goes in to the appliance and follow the cable until you find the main fuse.
ONLY USE THE SAME TYPE AND RATING OF FUSE TO REPLACE IT.
The usual cause of this fuse failure is the door switches are contaminated or sticking. Check the door switches before putting power back on to the appliance.
Hope this helps.

Jan 18, 2011 | GE Advantium 120 Convection/Microwave Oven

2 Answers

1994 ford explorer both headlights went out all of a sudden changed switch checked fuses no power at bulb socket running lights still work im stuck


Find the headlight relay and swap it with another relay to see if the lights come back on. If they do, replace the relay with a new one.

Dec 29, 2010 | Ford Explorer Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have 2 Epson V500 Scanners, 1 of them I just have on standby. The one I use daily does not turn on. I tried using the cables of the standby unit already. I checked the fuses on the plugs of both...


  1. Check that the power socket switch is on Make sure your scanner's power cord is securely connected to the scanner and a working electrical outlet.
  2. If your scanner is supplied with a power adapter, make sure your scanner's AC adapter is securely connected to the scanner and a working electrical outlet.
  3. Make sure that the power outlet works. (If necessary, test it by plugging in another electrical device and turning it on.)
  4. Check that the power switch is on at the mains socket. If this is on, carefully check the power cable to ensure it is not damaged and remove then reseat it before attempting to turn the scanner on again. If your scanner has a power button, make sure that the button is depressed so it is turned on. Also, make sure that your outlet works and is not controlled by a wall switch or timer.
  5. Power off the scanner at the mains socket. Unplug the power cable from the socket, then remove and reseat the power cable from the scanner's power cable port. Plug the scanner back in at the mains and ensure the socket is switched on.
  6. If your scanner has a power button, does the power button depress when pressed? Press down firmly on the power button, if it is stiff and does not depress then there may be a problem with the button.

  7. Connect the scanner directly to the mains - not via a surge protector or extension lead. If your unit is connected via a surge protector or a power strip/extension lead, connect the unit directly to the mains socket.
  8. Try another suitable power cable. Check that other electronic devices connected to same power socket have power and try another mains socket and another power cable if necessary. Failing this try another suitable and known-working power cable. Depending on your scanner, a standard "kettle lead" or "figure of eight" power cable is used. If there is power to the scanner (indicated by an illuminated Start light), when a different power cable is used, then the fault is with the original power cable.


If the unit does not power on after following the checks above, contact Epson for support. If your scanner uses an AC adapter, then this may need to be replaced. If your scanner is over 12 months old, you can purchase a replacement AC adapter directly from Epson.

Nov 13, 2010 | Epson Perfection V500 Flatbed Scanner

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