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Remove the lower front panel and turn dryer on. The ignitor should glow bright orange first. After Ignitor glows brightly the next thing will be the flame lighting as the gas valve opens with a click. All this should happen within about a minute or so.
If flame comes on but goes off quickly It's likely one of the Gas valve coils is opening a break in the coil as the coil heats up. This coil will shrink when cool and be able to run again. The coils are purchased as a kit.
If ignitor goes off and no flame comes on the coil kit is likely needed because one coil is fully broken inside its case. If flame goes on but shuts off shortly the problem is as described above and the kit is needed.
There is a flame safety assembly on the can above the burner. If the airflow is poor. the flame tip may activate that safety and turn the flame off. Or the flame switch may be open and not allow the flame to come on at all.
The Flame switch can be tested for continuity with an ohmeter but the valves may ONLY show bad with power applied and can not be tested with a meter as they will test good.. Good Luck
Basically all gas dryers have the same setup on the gas assembly which is a sensor, an ignitor, and a pair of solenoid coils. The gas assembly gets its power from the cycling thermostat mounted on the blower housing. As the air moves through the blower the temp is being monitored by this thermostat. Wired in with this thermostat is also a fuse or a thermodisc which trips if the dyer overheats. So if either of these is bad then the gas assembly will not get any power. When power does go to the gas assembly all of the components are powered up at the same time. Why don't the gas come out? Because the majority of the power is being used by the ignitor. Their is simply not enough ampdraw there to open the valve. To open the valve the ignitor must be screaming hot AND shut off. That is the job of the sensor. Once the ignitor is up to temp it becomes a thermocouple. The sensor shuts down power to the ignitor and it generates through a 3 wire on the holding coil enough power to hold the valve open. If for some reason the flame did not ignite when the ignitor cools off the power to the holding coil diminishes and the gas gets cut off. So if the ignitor is doing its thing and the flame sensor is doing its thing then the coils which have been known to get hot and quit need to be replaced. Here is my home video:
The areas that come to mind is the ignitor and/or sensor has gone bad The most unlikely is the gas valve but it is a possibility. I check for a thermal fuse on your model It does not come with one. That eliminated another cause.
Attached is a picture for reference.
When the dryer is turned on, the ignitor ( #74) will start to glow and in a few seconds to a bright orange color. The sensor ( #79) which is located on the outside of the flame tube, detects the heat intensity from the ignitor. Once the ignitor has reached its limit when operating correctly, the sensor will give a signal for the gas valve to open and release gas through the burner where the ignitor will light the gas. This process repeats several times when drying a load.
Defective ignitors will either have no glow or the will glow a little bit.
Hope this helps you out. Always you caution when working on appliances.
There are 3 things to turns on the heat. The ignitor, the thermal sensor, The gas valve. The ignitor has to glow first when you start. if it doesn't then it has a problem right there. After the ignitor comes on, and the thermal sensor has to produce some voltage so the gas valve can open to fire a flame then the heat will start. If the thermal sensor is bad, valve can't open then the ignitor will shut down, hence there is no heat.Taking the back panel off and try look to see the ignitor when you start so you can diagnose it correctly. Good luck
This problem is caused by faulty gas valve coils. These electrical coils are right above the gas valves and when energized, these solenoids open the gas valves. It is recommended that if any of the gas valve coils are suspected of fault, that they both (all) be changed at once. Hope this helped and best wishes.
The burner assembly consists of the gas valve, the igniter and sensor, and the thermostats. The gas supplied to the appliance is turned on and off by the gas valve, as follows:
First--when you close the dryer door, set the timer, and press or turn the Start button--the motor starts. When it reaches full speed (in about a second) a switch on the motor turns on, which allows the electricity to flow through a simple thermostat to one side of the gas valve.
The gas valve then sends power to the igniter, which glows bright orange.
As heat and light from the igniter warm up a sensor that's right next to the igniter, the sensor circuit opens, then supplies power to the other side of the gas valve. This completes the circuit and opens the valve.
Once the valve opens, the gas rushes out and the igniter ignites it. As the gas burns, it keeps the sensor warm, which keeps the gas flowing.
When the dryer reaches the pre-set drying temperature, a simple thermostat turns off the flow of electricity to the gas valve and therefore turns off the gas.
When the temperature in the dryer falls about 20 to 30 degrees, the thermostat again allows the electricity to flow through to the gas valve, and the cycle starts over.
If you selected the Automatic setting, the cycle continues until the clothes are dry, then the timer advances and turns the dryer off.
If you selected a timed setting, the cycle continues until the time has expired, then the timer turns off the dryer
Remove the vent line from the rear and try the dryer. If it heats then that means there is a clog or kink in the vent line blocking the vent air from exiting which will stop the dryer from getting hot! If not then it's another one of these problems.
Defective Ignitor (Gas Only) When heated the ignitor used on your gas dryer must obtain a specific high temperature in order to activate the flame sensor. This ignitor is fragile and susceptible to cracking. A hairline fracture that is barely visible to the naked eye is enough to change the resistance of the ignitor to a point that is will not work properly. You can test the resistance of your ignitor. You should get a reading of 50-400 ohms of resistance.
If the ignitor gets hot and then goes off after about 10-15 seconds and there is no ignition, the problem is probably not the ignitor. It is most likely the gas valve coils that are defective.
If the ignitor comes on and stays on, it is the flame sensor that is defective.
If the ignitor is not getting hot it could also be one of the thermostats that is defective. The power for the ignitor is passed from the timer, through all of the thermostats, limit switches and fuses to the ignitor. So if you are not getting power to the ignitor during ignition, you should check the continuity of the individual thermostats and fuses. DRYER DOES NOT HEAT
Defective Gas Valve Coil (Gas Dryer Only)
If the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down, it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot. However the coils still work when when cool.
An easy way to diagnose the coils when the burner is not lighting, watch the ignitor. If the the ignitor glows for 10 to 15 seconds but no flame is created, then the coils are faulty. If the ignitor is not glowing the problem is elsewhere.
Recent Customer Symptoms: The dryer burner doesn't always come on when starting. If the burner does come on, once it goes off if won't come on again until the dryer cools down.
Defective Flame Sensor (Gas Dryer Only) The flame sensor's job is to monitor the ignitor for sufficient heat to ignite the gas. A properly operating flame sensor will pass a continuity check under room temperature.
Common Symptoms If the flame sensor is defective in the open position, the ignitor will not get hot when the dryer is started. However, if it is defective in the closed position the ignitor will get hot, but the flame sensor will not allow the flame to ignite. In this case, the ignitor will usually stay hot for a long period of time.
Defective Thermostat The thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature in the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change the operating thermostat.
The thermostat can also fail in the opposite mode. It can prevent the element from heating at all. A failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.
There are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw. These thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the problem.
Defective Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse is in series with one leg of power to the motor. If the fuse is open (no continuity) the motor will not run.
Location: The thermal fuse is located in different locations according to the model and brand of dryer.
Solution: Check the thermal fuse for continuity with a volt/ohm meter. If it is open, it will need to be replaced
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the ignitor bar that lights the gas might not be coming on, the coils that open the gas valve in the dryer might not be opening the valve, or the flame sensor might be bad which would not allow power to the ignitor. these are the most common problems with whirlpool gas dryers
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