Question about GE Profile 22.2 Cu. Ft. Bottom-Mount Refrigerator - Stainless-Steel

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Bottom Freezer Profile fridge does not cool properly in the fridge portion. Freezer works. Compressor works draws 1.1 Amps at 120 Volts. Evaporator Working fine Condensor coils clean Condensor Fan Works No Visible leaks Suspect Evaporator Fan

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Hi,

Check out these tips...they can help you figure out what is going wrong withyour refrigerator and why it is not cooling

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heatman101

Posted on Nov 07, 2010

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Remove the rear lower panel on the unit check to see if the compressor is hot or if its running, should feel the vibration, also listen for any clicking noises.

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Fridge not cooling


Hi,

Your description is quite complete but is rather baffling. Pls bear with me while we process by elimination. A few basic/working ideas:
  • most designs call for a single compressor to cool the freezer;
  • the cold air in the freezer is drawn towards the fridge to cool that area;
  • this is performed by a fan drawing air in the freezer through the evaporator;
  • most would have a vent or air pathway to guide the freezer air;
  • all would have thermostatic control to set the desired temperature;
  • some designs have two thermostatic control , 1 for the freezer, 1 for the fridge.
As applied to your concern:
  • compressor is working since freezer is OK;
  • fan is working as you posted but is the air drawn from the freezer, better still, is the air forced/vented into the fridge?
  • could you please check that the air is strongly blown into the fridge area;
  • a little experiment, open the fridge door, look for and press on the door switch, the light should go out, after a lengthy seconds, the fan should trigger on, not only would it be audible, you would notice the frozen air swirling inside the fridge area. If you hold on long enough to the dorr switch, the compressor should kick in (if it is not already running) since the thermostat of the fridge area (if one is present) would sense that the fan is turning but the fridge area is not cooling.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

Oct 02, 2008 | Refrigerators

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Hi my botton frezer no working the compressor its hot


Compressors are normally 100-120 degrees when being cooled by a condenser fan motor. If there is no fan motor near the compressor then it can run up to 180 degrees, so the compressor temp by itself doesnt mean much. You can take an ampmeter and clamp it around one of the wires to the compressor to see if it is running, drawing anywhere from 1-2.5 amps or trying to start, in which case it may draw up to 20 amps every 3-5 minutes.

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Fridge just wont turn on any more. first it leaked water, then it got worse after that. THE FRIDGE SIDE STOPPED COOLING AND THEN THE FREEZER SIDE WENT OUT AS WELL. I CHECKED THE COILS AND DEFROSTED THEM...


try and replace the overload relay and start ptc on the compressor. if the compressor starts then you need to check the current draw on the compressor with a clamp meter if you have one.the current draw should be between 1.2 to 1.6 amps.if it is not within that range then replace the compressor

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AC runs for 5 minutes and then circuit breaker


What else do you have running on hydro while AC is running? Such as coffee maker, microwave, water heater, fridge. That 30 amp breaker is your main breaker I assume, or breaker on pole your plugged in to. Keep in mind your AC will normally draw approx. 15-17+ amps momentarily when compressor kicks in to cool, then drop back to 12-15 amps when running normal. If your AC is drawing too much current, then you would only normally trip 20 amp breaker for AC in your panel. Try switching other appliances to gas operation while running AC, such as water heater, and fridge. Make sure incoming voltage is up to specs as well . (115-120 volts)
If water heater takes 5-8 amps, and fridge takes same when they are calling for power, you'll be close or over the 20amp mark when you consider your on board converter etc. as well. That only leaves approx 10 amps for AC that requires approx 15 amps to run, and up to 20amps when compressor kicks in. If you switch all those other items over to propane, and it still happens, then a current draw test should be done on AC unit to see if perhaps a capacitor is faulty, or possible compressor faulty.

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Refrigerator is getting no power


Check the relay and the compressor with a volt meter. Make sure that you are getting proper voltage. 110 - 120 volts at both the relay and the compressor. If nothing happens or everytime you try to test and the circuit keeps popping first check for bad wiring make sure nothing has come loose. If all the wiring checks out including the ground then the only thing that will pop a circuitbreaker is a bad compressor meaning it is drawing to many amp and you will either need to have a company replace the compressor for around 600 dollars or get a new unit

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Fridge portion of my 611 is warm but freezer is still cold. Help.


The only other thing that seems could be wrong is that your freon lines are icing up and is cause you to not cool properly. Pull out your fridge and check the compressor on the bottom

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Hey my ge profile top fridge bottom freezer is broken


I had the same problem, It turned out to be a bad circuit board ($350). Also check to make sure you don't have frost/ice build up in the rear of the freezer. The fridge draws cool air from the freezer through a vent in the freezer.

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Power draw on start up


When the compressor first starts up it can draw as high as 15 amps but for no more then a second or two. After that it should run at 1-1.5 amp and will draw less as it continues to run. After 10 minutes it should pull anywhere from .5-1 amps.

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