Question about General Electric Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I'm Huuum to your rescue.
Is your freezer packed to the top, and covering any air ducts near the back of the freezer?
The freezer and fridge share the air and if the circulation from the freezer to the fridge is cut off ,
this could cause problems.
Or you may just need a shot of coolant to raise the pressure in the coil.
It's not necessarily wise to spend a lot of money on an old fridge over 7 years old.
But*** it's better to try one service call and find out if it is one of the many simple things first, as I showed you. Then you would ne saving the price of a new fridge for awhile!
That's your call.
Here is an interesting report I just read!
Repair or replace?
When to pull the plug on your old refrigerator
It nearly always makes sense to undertake simple do-it-yourself repairs,
such as replacing a gasket on a refrigerator or a freezer.
Typically, you'll also find a troubleshooting section for more-serious problems
in the owner's manual.
Should you pay for a repair or buy a new model?
The answer depends mostly on the age of your refrigerator,
how much you bought it for,and the cost of the repair.
Follow these guidelines:
When a repair makes sense.
If your refrigerator is under warranty or less than four years old (three years for top-freezers),
paying for a repair makes sense.
Note that refrigerators under warranty might require service from a factory-authorized technician;
readers have found them on a par with independent repairers.
When a repair might be a wise choice.
If your refrigerator is out of warranty and is four to seven years old,
it might make sense to pay for a repair. Customers generally pay $100 to $200 for a repair.
But you might want to buy a new model even at this stage,
given that today's models are quieter and have added features.
Higher energy efficiency is another plus: Energy Star-qualified models made after April 28, 2008,
are 43 percent more efficient than conventional models built before 2001 and 56 percent
more efficient than those built before 1993.
When it pays to replace.
The repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new refrigerator.
Data also shows that it doesn't pay to fix a less-expensive top-freezer refrigerator
six or more years old or a bottom-freezer or side-by-side eight or more years old.
Thanks to better recycling programs, less than 10 percent
of a refrigerator you replace is likely to end up in a landfill.
Thanks for giving me the opportunity to help!
Please do not forget to give me a rating before you sign off!
Bless You, Thank You, HUUUM
Posted on Sep 22, 2008
You need either a WR51X314 defrost heater, or more likely a WR9X413 defrost control (defrost timer) for your TBX25ZLB. Unfortunately, these part are listed as "No Longer Available". Next time you want to defrost it, find the defrost control at the back of the refrigerator section, very near the temperture set knob (the one that goes from 1-9). You will most likely have to pull the knob off and remove the cover to find the visible part of the defrost control timer. It is a round flat looking plastic part, usually black or white, smaller than a dime, with a groove in it which you can turn with a flat blade screw driver. Turn it slowly clockwise (they usually make a clicking noise as you turn them) until it makes a rather loud click. Now if the refrig was running, it will stop and turn on the defrost heater. If the heater is good, it should begin to glow red and heat until the frost melts or the timer advances back to the run position (usually about 30 minutes). (if there is lots of build up on the freezer, it will most likely take longer than 30 minutes of defrost heater operation to melt it all. You can help it with your hair blower, if you think you need to. ) All this will help to eliminate the defrost heater itself as the problem. A larger parts store may have a defrost control timer left in inventory, or be able to suggest a generic defrost control which you can use. In the mean time, you can defrost your refrig manually this way once a week or so for 45 minutes, then manually advance the timer again to the run position. (If the defrost control timer is bad, it usually will not advance itself back into run) Send a comment with how things turned out or if you have any other questions. Please don't rate this, as anything but a Fix-Ya lowers my score.
Posted on Feb 05, 2009
If you replaced the "defrost timer", and the circulation fan runs ok before the ice buildup occurs, you will have to melt the ice so the panel will come off. Then, pull the back panel off and inspect to components. First, the defrost element and connections to it. If connections are good, disconnect 1 connector and check the resistance of the element itself with a ohmmeter. It should be 40-150 ohms, depending on the unit. If it is excessive or infinate, replace the element. If it is ok, leave the element disconnected and check the other component (defrost termination switch) which is clamped onto the evaporator coil and has two wires attached to it. It should read 0 to 2 ohms at room temprature, and no more than that as it is a temprature controlled switch. If it has excessive resistance, replace it. These are the only 2 components, aside from the defrost timer, that encompass the entire defrost circuit in most refrigerators.
Posted on Jul 31, 2009
I would suggest fixing it . You only have 2 parts in the defrost system . A timer , and the defrost heater which comes with the bimetal , pt . # WR51X10031 .Most probable , is the defrost heater . You will need to remove the rear inside freezer panel , and defrost the coils with a hair dryer . After defrosting , 2 screws hold each ( 2 ) heater on , ant the defrost thermostat , just clips onto the top of the coils .
Posted on Nov 18, 2009
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