Question about Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in Dishwasher

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I have the two drawer model dish-drawer system. In the past the top seal leaked and since has been replaced with a new seal. Worked well for several years after but then the top drawer quit running. So we started to use the bottom drawer. That was fine for awhile althought it would pump waste water into the top drawer. Now neither drawer will work. The bottom drawer starts up and shuts down. I pulled the lower drawer and it is dry.

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  • Ted N Dec 08, 2010

    If it makes a difference, it is a DD-603. Display is not LCD. When power is restored, the top drawer begins to double-beep continiously, the middle button turns red, and the top display reads rinse. I pulled the bottom drawer out and it is dry underneth. During this time, the bottom drawer, if activated, starts up, I hear the pump start and then shuts off as though I turned it off. I'm thinking the circuit board on the bottom could have some calcium deposits shorting it out....

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If your model has got an LCD display are you able to record what shows up on the display when the bottom drawer shuts down. If no display then are you able to note down the LEDs which are on inside the top of the drawer lid. It is likely there is no water getting into it because the inlet valve is faulty.

Also it would be helpful to know what actually happens on the top drawer when you start it. Is the display lit up?

Have you tried to run with the drain hose taken off from the sink connection into a bucket?

Posted on Nov 08, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have a Kenmore Elite model no is 59673502201 and it stop cooling in both the frig and freezer i replaced the condenser fan motor and it worked so i replaced the back and the unit will STILL NOT GET


Do you hear your evaporator fan running in the freezer drawer area?
If not, then that's the fan you should have replaced.

If your compressor is running and both the compressor fan and the evaporator fan are running, check the back wall of your freezer compartment. If it is frosted up, then you have a defrost problem.

If it's not frosting up, disassemble your freezer drawer section and remove the back panel in the freezer to look at your evaporator coil.

If it's partially frosted at the top, or bottom, but the rest of it is dry looking, then you've got a leaking sealed system.

If it's lightly frosted all over, then you have good coolant flow and you need to start looking at your thermostat and damper up in the fresh foods section.

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The lid seal is damaged and it lets water go through and collect on the flood switch which may be triggering F1.

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1 Answer

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Top right corner: it means the bad right actuator could not pull down the lid seal on that side causing a leak. The actuators are sold in pair. They are not expensive. Replace both of them when you order them in. Need to inspect the rubber seal around the top lid since if it is distorted another 60 bucks to get a new lid for replacement also. The new lid comes with the york to engage with the actuators.

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F1 with a spanner message


F1 indicates a leak. It could be that you got some water down below the drawer into the pan. This is where the sensor is located. If you pull the drawer out you will see the water. They are pretty sensitive to any water. Also you might have a leak because the bottom drawer lid is not sealing properly.
www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html has a video on replacing the seal if it is a problem.

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It is good that you identify the leak from the top drawer. Now it time to clean it. Pull out the tube. Near the bottom there is a squares tab on both sides. Press these tab so the tube could be pulled further out so you can lift the tube out of the rails. Push these rails in then you can lower the tube to the floor to dry out the wetness inside the housing. You can use the bottom drawer while deciding to fix the top drawer by yourself or call the F&P serviceman. If you decide to do your own then need to order the Lid seal with YOKE and a pair of actuators. THe original problem is the actuators,not holding down the lid seal so there was a leak. However, when it is bad it causes the lid tilted in one side then damages the seal from the lid. If you don't mind the time, when you replace the actuators keep original lid in until it leak the replace with a new lid. WHen change the new lid you have to change the YOKE since the replacement had a new design better than the original so they are different. Good Luck.

Dec 17, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in...

1 Answer

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1 Answer

The clean dish rinse solution in both drawers leaking out


Your seal aroud the top lid is bad causing the leaking. It is supposed to press down against the groove around the top of your wash tube to seal properly.
1- You need to take it out to inspect the seal, if it flare out, then it need to be replace.
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Good luck in finding the root cause.

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1 Answer

Dish drawer leaks Fisher Paykel


When water accumulates in the bottom it triggers an error code and it keeps running. There is a water sensor in the bottom. I pull out the bottom drawer, mop up the water and use a hair dryer to dry the water (the more you mop up the less you need the hair dryer). Be careful to not get any of the plastic too hot. Kill the power before messing with the unit. The first time I did this it took 20 minutes to dry out. I have gotten more proficient and it take about 5 minutes now.

I had a water leak which was due to the rinse agent cap not being completely sealed. Water leaked out of a small hole in the front (I'm guessing an air vent but don't know for sure) and flooded the bottom.

I also had a leak due to having too tall a dish in the drawer and the top not sealing. I currently have a leak on the top drawer of unknown origin, but the bottom drawer still works.
Hope this helps.

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