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Re: color wheel replacement
With the back off of the unit, you are looking at a silver can on the light engine. The is the board where the DLP IC is located. There is a large heat sink right in the middle. Near that heat sink you will find a small square cut out where two pins protrude from the inner bd. There is a small black piece across those two pins, that is the jumper. With a needle nose slide that black jumper off of the two pins. Normally if the color wheel is changed and the jumper not remove the picture is very poor with ugly green and purple negative look.
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yes , u need to remove this jumper , and the whine would go away , the bulletin is unique for each color wheel , the jumper is very small so just take u time to look for it , is located at the dmd board
When you replace the color wheel on certain models you must remove a jumper plug on the DMD board. There is a service bulletin that is usually included with factory replacement color wheels. If the color wheel has a whine to it that means it is probably used and came out of someone else's set. Anyhow the plug can be accessed as I recall without removing the shield of the DMD board. I know this because my first one of those gave me grief, too. Samsung changed wheels on different versions of the same model tv so it gets confusing. You should be ok though after adding/removing the two pin plastic jumper from the DMD board. The only other thing I saw cause a green picture eas the plug that goes from the DMD to the digital board can develop bad connections and can be replaced with a regular DVI type cable. Hope this helps, Russmann.
Hi...No need for a different jumper or different color wheel. It's an easy fix. Make sure your TV is turned off and remove the jumper with a pair of needle nose pliers. Just keep it in case you may need it in the future. I will post a picture to show you where the jumper is located.
When I removed the jumper wire the screen color problems I experienced after changing the color wheel were fixed completely. I did not need to reset the CCA values (which came with my color wheel, on a separate sticker). If you have a black bracket blocking access to the jumper wire, as I did, you can access the jumper wire by removing the fan shown just to the left of the yellow and white sticker; there are two screws attaching the fan to the chassis below it. Next, remove the two screws that hold the silver clamshell (the housing for the circuit board) halves together. These screws are right behind where the fan just was, on either side of the protruding fins. They each have a spring under the screw head. You can then pull the visible half of the silver housing forward (with the bracket attached). You will then have access to the entire circuit board. Look for CN810 - it is located right behind where that bracket just was when it was all put together. Pull the tiny black plastic part (that has the jumper wire) off of the pins. Then reassemble the housing and put the fan back on.