Question about Kenmore 65924 Electric Dryer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hello Friend, Your problem is very simple to fix. You're dryer needs a gas valve coil kit. To replace coils just remove front of dryer body and look below drum you will see the gas valve. The valve coils are located on top of valve (two little round black cylinders). It's simple, just remove the two screws from the little metal bracket that holds them down, unplug the wires from them and just lift them straight up off of the valve. Take notice that one has 3 wires and one has 2 wires. Just replace with new coils and plug wires back in and re-fasten metal bracket. Your dryer will run like new. Happy to help, Tim.
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
If all controls seem to work normally, except that no heat is produced (and is an all electric unit--not gas), then likely the heating element is burnt out (has a break in the wire that heats up and glows, like in your toaster--though the heating wire can sometimes be within a covering metal like your electric range burner, and the break not visable). This is a commonly replaced part; it can be tested for continuity (no break in the wire) with a VOM (Volt Ohm Meter--$2 w coupon at harbor freight this week I noticed) where you set to ohm-resistance (to arrow with + sign if shown and will beep when probes are touching to show a complete circuit) (number would be the same as probes touching, but since resistance wire [to make the heat], there will be some number but not close to that of leads just held not touching anything) or the piece of wire, flashlight bulb, and flashlight battery test (casing of bulb to end of element, battery to end of bulb, piece of wire to other end of battery and on to other end of heating element), where if bulb lights then no break in element (though occasionally wire break can be disconnecting only when large dryer current is applied).
Of course unplugged when do all this testing.
The dryer "working" as it is, is using 110 volts (the controls and the motor) and is separate from the heating circuit which is using both 110 volt sides of the outlet, to equal 220 volts.
Of course, you should check that the connections are solid, and if you have the VOM, you could even use the VOM set to 600v AC to check that the outlet is delivering 110v on both sides of the plug and 220v between the two hot leads (usually black and red, with white the neutral which eventuall connects to ground--if a 4th lead, it is the cabinet ground--usually green or bare).
... and make sure when looking in the cabinet, that there is no build up of lint which can cause the overheating and heating element failure in the first place.
Posted on Aug 10, 2009
bad heater box fuse,get the model number from inside the dryer door,and go to your local appliance parts store and give them the number and they will get you a thermal fuse kit,remove the back of dryer and you will see the heater box on the right side
Posted on Feb 03, 2010
This could be the heating element or several other parts more likely the thermal fuse. There is a video on troubleshooting a similar model at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html this will walk you thru troubleshooting your problem.
Posted on Mar 28, 2010
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May 01, 2013 | Kenmore Dryers
Kenmore 80 Series of dryers are consumer grade dryers for home use. As
with most home appliances, the Kenmore 80 series dryers will
occasionally not work as intended. If a problem occurs with your dryer,
however, you do not necessarily need it serviced by a technician. You
can attempt to troubleshoot and fix any problems with your dryer before
contacting a technician.
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