Question about Maytag MSD2754G Side by Side Refrigerator

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Refrigerator not cold enough

Compressor runs, freezer temp at 8 degrees, but refrigerator section temp is at 51 degrees at the coldest setting. Unplugged refrigerator for 8 hours yesterday to thaw any "ice plugs" and got some water on the floor. Fan in back by condenser is also running, and fan behind freezer panel is running. Coils behind the panel in the freezer are frosted up. There doesn't seem to be any air coming out of port in refrigerator section, and the ports are clear.

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Check for air flow into the fridge compartment. In these refrigerators, incoming cold air is ported in at the top left-hand side of the fridge compartment...the problem has to be with the return air vent inside the beer compartment. The return air port in a Maytag side by side refrigerator is located behind the crisper drawers in the beer compartment. Condensation can freeze in a sheet over this port blocking the return air flow, creating a warm compartment.
refrigerator not cold enough - d3e3039.jpg

Posted on Jun 16, 2008

  • Swilin Sampson
    Swilin Sampson Jun 16, 2008




    Poor
    cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator
    coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside
    of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence
    of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of
    the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the
    self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

    The refrigerator
    is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour
    period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails,
    the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much
    frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't
    draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling
    because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling
    in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

    Here's an
    inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is
    with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from
    the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator
    to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have
    several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip
    pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually."
    When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the
    thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools
    properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the
    self-defrosting system:



    • The defrost timer



    • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)



    • The defrost heater


    If
    it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the
    refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a
    qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem




    Condenser

    Self-defrosting
    refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under
    the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get
    coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly.
    The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device
    behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator
    from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the
    Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the
    coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of
    the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the
    remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.


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HI,
As you have told that,that you have tried defrosting the refrigerator, but still its cooling is not proper, and you have Ice build up the coils. You need to gets the cooling gas levels checked. This may be the only problem, as the compressor you told is running all the time.
Cover all the wiring with plastic and try pouring warm water over the coils ,to open them up.May be this works. Otherwise check the GAS levels. I don't suspect anything else to be worng . If the unit it turning on and cutting of normally.


Thanks
Mandeep

Posted on Jun 16, 2008

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  • 97 Answers

Hi Tin Man!
You may have identified the problem with the frosted over freezer coils... are they to the point of being ice encased? In addition to cooling the freezer, this is also the primary source for the refriferator cold air... I would try defrosting the unit again, with it disconnected from power, try and go longer this time, with the doors open.
When you power back up, reset both temp settings to mid-range (5) and let it run at least 8-12 hours to stabilize... try to avoid opening the doors too much while it cools down, and see how it does.
If it still doesn't cool down sufficiently, you may have damaged air control port flaps, not allowing the cold air introduction into the fridge compartment.
This could also be a control/sensor issue, i.e.: the setting knob is malfunctioning, or the temp sensor might be bad, as could the electronic controller.... in other words the info source and control system that directs how the flaps are opened and closed might be at fault.
Refrigerators have become much more sophisticated since the advent of the microchip, but the basics still apply... just try and use the process of elimination to isolate the problem.

Hope this helps and good luck!
-WB

Posted on Jun 15, 2008

  • Bill Bellomy
    Bill Bellomy Jun 16, 2008

    even the previously given solution r hving problems

  • Bill Bellomy
    Bill Bellomy Jun 17, 2008

    The above comment WAS NOT posted by me.

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Check / Clean the condenser coils at the back.

Remove the cover panel at the back to reveal the coils.
Use the long, narrow nozzle on your vacuum and start cleaning

Posted on Jun 15, 2008

  • monk3ybidzness
    monk3ybidzness Jun 15, 2008

    wow nice solution, very complete

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  • 638 Answers

Check the ventilations my friend

Posted on Jun 15, 2008

  • 3 more comments 
  • hemant somaiya
    hemant somaiya Jun 15, 2008

    please rate this solution as fixya if you get helped or let me know what happened further fridge is running but not cold enough: Start out with the easy stuff first...make sure the lights go out when you close the door(s), make sure the doors are closing properly and the gaskets are closing fully and not torn. Check to make sure the evaporator fan in the freezer is working, this fan blows the cold air around. If the fan is not working, possible bad fan motor - check for power to the fan motor and also check the fan switches around the door openings, ( if your fridge has these switches, not all do ). A common problem cropping up in the last several years has been the air damper not opening up and allowing the cold air from the freezer to be blown into the fresh food section ( mostly on SxS refrigerators ). For many years the air damper was manually operated and now we have motorized controlled or temperature controlled or thermister and electronic boards controlling air dampers, and if this device sticks closed the FF section will normally warm up. An example picture of "one" style and an air damper ( called a diffuser by Whirlpool ). Next would be to check the condenser tubing, a good place to start is to make sure the condenser coils are not built up with dust!! Make sure the condenser fan motor is also working properly. Check for any "clicking on and off" noises from the compressor, is the compressor running.



    The most common fridge "not cooling" problem is a frost free failure. Remove the access panel in the freezer section to expose the evaporator coils. If the coils in the freezer section get plugged up with frost, this frost will block the evaporator fan motor from blowing the cold air around. The fan blade can also hit this frost and either become noisy or stop altogether. Locating the defrost timer can be tricky....they are often hidden behind the back bottom corners of the fridge at the bottom, in the last few years the timers have been located in the ceiling of the fresh food section, and some behind the cold control cover. Once you locate the defrost timer, slowly turn the screw like wheel in the middle of the defrost timer with a straight screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. You are now in defrost. If the defrost heater(s) comes on now, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater(s) does not come on, you can ohm test the defrost heater for continuity or volt test for 120 volts to the heater(s). If you have no power to the defrost heater(s) you can also bypass the defrost thermostat to see if the defrost heater will come on, join the 2 wires together to bypass the defrost thermostat. If the heater now comes on, replace the defrost timer and defrost thermostat. If the heater itself is bad, defrost the fridge with a hair dryer, replace the defrost heater* and defrost thermostat. If the defrost timer seems "hot" to the touch or is noisy ( like a ticking or screeching noise )...replace it.

    *One new safety device added to refrigerators in the last few years has been a in-line fuse added to both sides of the defrost heater. If one of these fuses let's go, you must replace the whole defrost heater, as it comes as an assembly. If the defrost heater does not work, you should check for one of these fuses being open. Check it with a volt meter or ohm meter.

    New link from Appliance Repair Aid on how the wiring circuit works for a frost free fridge, the link is here.

    On a frost free refrigerator, the cooling coils should be in the freezer section. On a SxS style refrigerator the coils will be behind a cover on the back wall. On a freezer on top style the coils could be behind the back wall or under the freezer floor. Removing the cover and exposing the evaporator coils could be a valuable tool. Seeing what the cooling coils looks like may help split your not cooling problem. Totally covered coils with white snow is a frost free problem. A ball of ice on the coils and the rest of the cooling coils are bare or only a few coils frosted a little and the rest are bare is an indication of a system problem. Example picture one, example picture two, example picture three. System problems may be a leak in the refrigeration tubing, an inefficient not 100% pumping compressor.

  • hemant somaiya
    hemant somaiya Jun 15, 2008

    do not forget to rate this solution kindly take a movement to accept the right persons solution.keep me updated for further assistance iam waiting for your reply.

  • hemant somaiya
    hemant somaiya Jun 15, 2008

    any more updates

  • hemant somaiya
    hemant somaiya Jun 15, 2008

    my solution will 100% solve your problem just go through the solution properly.if do not understand something feel free for further assistance.

  • hemant somaiya
    hemant somaiya Jun 16, 2008

    even the previous solution hve same problem

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