Question about Rheem 40 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC 82VH402

1 Answer

I have a Rheemglas Standard, we had to move it to replace the subfloor, after turning power off and disconnecting power, draining the tank, and move it, when we were done with the floor, we reinstalled the heater, re-connected the wires reattached the water lines, then turned the breaker back on, bled the air from the lines, we do not have any hot water, what did I do wrong?

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1 Answer

The tank has to be full of water before turning on the circuit breaker.
If the elements are not submerged in water, they instantly burn out.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

Posted on Nov 08, 2010

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80 gal power vented gas fired hot water heater. We moved into this house 2 years ago and over the last month or 6 weeks our hot water comes in very hot but does not maintain a constraint heat We have a...


Have you tried turning the temperature down. If so and still have problem shut breaker off, let cool completely and then drain the tank by connecting a water hose to it. Sediment tends to build up on the bottom. When finished disconnect hose, turn valve closed, let tank completely. Fill before turning breaker on.

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Since installing Rinnai RC80i tankless water heater, the performance of the dishwasher has diminished. The dishes aren't getting clean. I suspect the water temperature is not hot enough. The thermostat is...


follow this steps and fix it. God bless you
Drain a tank:
  1. Shut off power at the electrical service panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Close the cold-water supply valve and open a hot-water faucet somewhere in the house (to speed draining).
  3. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and run it outside the house.
  4. Open the drain valve and allow all water to drain out.
  5. To refill the tank, close the drain valve tightly and open the cold-water supply valve. Also open a nearby hot-water faucet. When a steady stream of water flows from that faucet, the tank is full and the faucet can be closed.
  6. Once the tank is full, turn the electrical power back on
Test and replace a heating element:
  1. Turn off power at the electrical service panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Remove the access panel on the electric water heater.
  3. Disconnect one of the element wires and set a multimeter to RX1000 (resistance times 1,000). Touch one probe to an element mounting bolt and the other to each element terminal screw, in turn. If the tester displays anything but infinity ( open circuit), replace the element.
  4. If necessary, set the multimeter to RX1 and touch the probes to the terminal screws. If there is any resistance reading at all ( closed circuit), then the element is good. If not, replace it. Both upper and lower elements are tested in the same manner.
  5. To remove the element, first drain the heater.
  6. Disconnect the remaining element wire. Remove the mounting bolts holding the element in place. Remove the element.
  7. Replace the heating element with one of the same model, shape, and rating. Make sure you also replace any installation gaskets.
Test and replace a high-limit cutoff:
  1. Disconnect power to the heater at the electrical service panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Remove the upper access panel and push the reset button.
  3. Replace the access panel and turn the power back on. If the water is hot, the reset was the problem. If not, you'll need to turn the power off again and reopen the access panel.
  4. Use a multimeter to test the cutoff terminals for continuity. If faulty, replace with an exact replacement part.

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follow this chart troubleshooting and fix it. God bless you
est and replace a high-limit cutoff:
  1. Disconnect power to the heater at the electrical panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Remove the upper access panel and push the reset button.
  3. Replace the access panel and turn the power back on. If the water is hot, the reset was the problem. If not, you'll need to turn the power off again and reopen the access panel.
  4. Use a multimeter to test the cutoff terminals for continuity. If faulty, replace with an exact replacement part.
Drain a tank:
  1. Shut off power at the electrical panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Close the cold-water supply valve and open a hot-water faucet somewhere in the house (to speed draining).
  3. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and run it outside the house.
  4. Open the drain valve and allow all water to drain out.
  5. To refill the tank, close the drain valve tightly and open the cold-water supply valve. Also open a nearby hot-water faucet. When a steady stream of water flows from that faucet, the tank is full and the faucet can be closed.
  6. Once the tank is full, turn the electrical power back on.
Test and replace a relief valve:
  1. Lift the spring lever on the valve to fill a small cup. Check the cup for sediment.
  2. If no water spurts out, or if water continues to drip after the valve is released, replace the valve.
  3. Cut power at the electrical panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on. Close the cold-water supply valve.
  4. Drain a few gallons of water from the tank.
  5. Unscrew and remove the discharge pipe if used.
  6. Loosen the relief valve with a pipe wrench, then remove the valve by hand.
  7. Apply pipe tape to the threads of the replacement valve and screw it into the tank by hand. Tighten it with a pipe wrench. Screw the discharge pipe (if any) into the valve outlet.
  8. Refill the water heater and restore electrical power.
Replace a drain valve:
  1. Shut off power at the electrical panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Close the cold-water supply valve and drain the water heater completely (see above).
  3. Unscrew the drain valve with a pipe wrench.
  4. Replace the drain valve with an identical unit wrapping the end with pipe tape.
  5. Refill the tank and restore electricity.

Oct 14, 2013 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Btu meter honeywell


follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

An electric water heater is a 240-volt appliance that can deliver a fatal shock. Always turn off power to the heater at the electrical panel before beginning work, and verify that power has been shut off. Make sure others in the house know not to restore electricity prematurely. If you have any doubt as to whether electricity has been turned off, seek professional assistance.
Troubleshoot a thermostat:
  1. Shut off power to the heater at the electrical panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Unscrew and remove the electric water heater access panel.
  3. Using a small screwdriver, turn the thermostat dial counterclockwise to lower the temperature, or clockwise to raise it. If the water heater doesn't maintain the proper temperature, test the thermostat.
  4. Disconnect one wire to the upper thermostat to test it. Set a multimeter to RX1 (resistance times 1) and touch a probe to the thermostat terminals as indicated in the owner's manual. Depending on the model and the terminals tested, the tester should show infinity ( open) or about 0 ( closed).
  5. Test the lower thermostat in the same manner.
  6. If necessary, replace the thermostat. Unscrew it from its mounting and install one of the same model, size, and rating. Once you install it, adjust the thermostat following instructions in your owner's manual.
Test and replace a heating element:
  1. Turn off power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Remove the access panel on the electric water heater.
  3. Disconnect one of the element wires and set a multimeter to RX1000 (resistance times 1,000). Touch one probe to an element mounting bolt and the other to each element terminal screw, in turn. If the tester displays anything but infinity ( open circuit), replace the element.
  4. If necessary, set the multimeter to RX1 and touch the probes to the terminal screws. If there is any resistance reading at all ( closed circuit), then the element is good. If not, replace it. Both upper and lower elements are tested in the same manner.
  5. To remove the element, first drain the heater.
  6. Disconnect the remaining element wire. Remove the mounting bolts holding the element in place. Remove the element.
  7. Replace the heating element with one of the same model, shape, and rating. Make sure you also replace any installation gaskets.
Test and replace a high-limit cutoff:
  1. Disconnect power to the heater at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Remove the upper access panel and push the reset button.
  3. Replace the access panel and turn the power back on. If the water is hot, the reset was the problem. If not, you'll need to turn the power off again and reopen the access panel.
  4. Use a multimeter to test the cutoff terminals for continuity. If faulty, replace with an exact replacement part.
Drain a tank:
  1. Shut off power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Close the cold-water supply valve and open a hot-water faucet somewhere in the house (to speed draining).
  3. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and run it outside the house.
  4. Open the drain valve and allow all water to drain out.
  5. To refill the tank, close the drain valve tightly and open the cold-water supply valve. Also open a nearby hot-water faucet. When a steady stream of water flows from that faucet, the tank is full and the faucet can be closed.
  6. Once the tank is full, turn the electrical power back on.
Test and replace a relief valve:
  1. Lift the spring lever on the valve to fill a small cup. Check the cup for sediment.
  2. If no water spurts out, or if water continues to drip after the valve is released, replace the valve.
  3. Cut power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on. Close the cold-water supply valve.
  4. Drain a few gallons of water from the tank.
  5. Unscrew and remove the discharge pipe if used.
  6. Loosen the relief valve with a pipe wrench, then remove the valve by hand.
  7. Apply pipe tape to the threads of the replacement valve and screw it into the tank by hand. Tighten it with a pipe wrench. Screw the discharge pipe (if any) into the valve outlet.
  8. Refill the water heater and restore electrical power.
Replace a drain valve:
  1. Shut off power at the electric panel d823f6bc-fc7a-4a21-93d9-5ea6957e7890.jpgand post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Close the cold-water supply valve and drain the water heater completely (see above).
  3. Unscrew the drain valve with a pipe wrench.
  4. Replace the drain valve with an identical unit wrapping the end with pipe tape.
  5. Refill the tank and restore electricity.

Oct 02, 2013 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

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please make this test and fix it. God bless you

An electric water heater is a 240-volt appliance that can deliver a fatal shock. Always turn off power to the heater at the electric panel before beginning work, and verify that power has been shut off. Make sure others in the house know not to restore electricity prematurely. If you have any doubt as to whether electricity has been turned off, seek professional assistance.
Troubleshoot a thermostat:
  1. Shut off power to the heater at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Unscrew and remove the electric water heater access panel.
  3. Using a small screwdriver, turn the thermostat dial counterclockwise to lower the temperature, or clockwise to raise it. If the water heater doesn't maintain the proper temperature, test the thermostat.
  4. Disconnect one wire to the upper thermostat to test it. Set a Multimeter to RX1 (resistance times 1) and touch a probe to the thermostat terminals as indicated in the owner's manual. Depending on the model and the terminals tested, the tester should show infinity ( open) or about 0 ( closed).
  5. Test the lower thermostat in the same manner.
  6. If necessary, replace the thermostat. Unscrew it from its mounting and install one of the same model, size, and rating. Once you install it, adjust the thermostat following instructions in your owner's manual.
Test and replace a heating element:
  1. Turn off power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Remove the access panel on the electric water heater.
  3. Disconnect one of the element wires and set a multimeter to RX1000 (resistance times 1,000). Touch one probe to an element mounting bolt and the other to each element terminal screw, in turn. If the tester displays anything but infinity ( open circuit), replace the element.
  4. If necessary, set the multimeter to RX1 and touch the probes to the terminal screws. If there is any resistance reading at all ( closed circuit), then the element is good. If not, replace it. Both upper and lower elements are tested in the same manner.
  5. To remove the element, first drain the heater.
  6. Disconnect the remaining element wire. Remove the mounting bolts holding the element in place. Remove the element.
  7. Replace the heating element with one of the same model, shape, and rating. Make sure you also replace any installation gaskets.
Test and replace a high-limit cutoff:
  1. Disconnect power to the heater at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Remove the upper access panel and push the reset button.
  3. Replace the access panel and turn the power back on. If the water is hot, the reset was the problem. If not, you'll need to turn the power off again and reopen the access panel.
  4. Use a multimeter to test the cutoff terminals for continuity. If faulty, replace with an exact replacement part.
Drain a tank:
  1. Shut off power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Close the cold-water supply valve and open a hot-water faucet somewhere in the house (to speed draining).
  3. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and run it outside the house.
  4. Open the drain valve and allow all water to drain out.
  5. To refill the tank, close the drain valve tightly and open the cold-water supply valve. Also open a nearby hot-water faucet. When a steady stream of water flows from that faucet, the tank is full and the faucet can be closed.
  6. Once the tank is full, turn the electrical power back on.
Test and replace a relief valve:
  1. Lift the spring lever on the valve to fill a small cup. Check the cup for sediment.
  2. If no water spurts out, or if water continues to drip after the valve is released, replace the valve.
  3. Cut power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on. Close the cold-water supply valve.
  4. Drain a few gallons of water from the tank.
  5. Unscrew and remove the discharge pipe if used.
  6. Loosen the relief valve with a pipe wrench, then remove the valve by hand.
  7. Apply pipe tape to the threads of the replacement valve and screw it into the tank by hand. Tighten it with a pipe wrench. Screw the discharge pipe (if any) into the valve outlet.
  8. Refill the water heater and restore electrical power.
Replace a drain valve:
  1. Shut off power at the electric panel and post a sign warning others not to turn it on.
  2. Close the cold-water supply valve and drain the water heater completely (see above).
  3. Unscrew the drain valve with a pipe wrench.
  4. Replace the drain valve with an identical unit wrapping the end with pipe tape.
  5. Refill the tank and restore electricity.

Oct 01, 2013 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Water drips from the overflow pipe on top of the electric hot water tank Tank is a RheemGlas


1) Copy following link for troubleshoot and replacement:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-TP-valve.html

2) Add comment Mar 2013 and say what you discover

Mar 11, 2013 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Water temp stays at 160 degrees


Specific type of water heater does not show on web search.
I am guessing you have tank-type electric water heater.
Did you replace both thermostats and test elements?
Element could be cracked, thermostats can stick open, upper thermostat wired incorrectly, wire shorted.
We know that electric power to water heater is good, and circuit breaker is good.
Why is eco is not tripping? Why is TP valve is not leaking?
Copy following links for step-by-step:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Jul 21, 2012 | Rheem Water Heaters

1 Answer

I have a Park Model RV with a Rheemglas Fury model 81VP205 with no bottom drain. How do I drain the water heater to winterize for the cold Northern Winters?


Make sure it's off (hydro) and open drain at cold line going in bottom wherever you find a drain (usually close to it) going down through floor and outside under trailer. Follow cold line back until you see a line "T" and one line going down under trailer, and open it up underneath. Then open pressure relief valve at top of tank to allow for faster draining .

Oct 14, 2011 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

We have a Rheemglas Standard Electric Water Heater 81V400 B and it's leaking water from the tank and also the hot water only lasts for a short period of time. I've been reading and have read that the water...


if your water heater is leaking from the tank, and not around any fitting, then you will need to replace the heater.
you can flush the heater, once a year is always recommended, however once every 2 years is sufficient.

scale, and deposites inside the tank will cause erosion and eventually eat through the walls of the tank. not much you can do to prevent this. the steel in the new tanks just don't last like they ued to.

Sep 09, 2010 | Rheem 40 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

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