Question about Fisher and Paykel Active Smart® E522BR Stainless Steel Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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My fisher and Pykel active smart fridge model E33IT keeps beeping when i open it.??? i have no instruction manual.?

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Model E372b Fisher & Pykel - Beeps with Fridge Door closed periodically-Higest shelves warm lower down freezes things

First I would like to say thanks for all the information on the Fisher-Paykel active smart fridge freezer problems. This was a lot more useful than their customer support help line… After a week of hanging on for ten minutes without any answer I had a look on the net and found your site with descriptions of similar problems so I decided to investigate further
I have a Fisher Paykel fridge freezer (model 402B in the UK) about three years old. Although it didn’t seem to be as cold as normal, the first sign of a serious problem was when it started making a rattling or knocking noise from the freezer compartment. Looking inside it was obviously iced up solid and the noise was probably the fan catching the ice. So first thing I decided to try was a days de icing after which everything seemed ok except the green indicator light was now flashing about once every second.
Two weeks later it was badly iced up again so the problem was still there. At first I suspected the fans (which I could never see actually working). I disconnected one and tried it with a 6v torch battery and it spun ok. It was then I realised what was happening - the fans cut out whenever the door is opened so they are always stopped if you look inside.
A closer look at the aluminium heat exchanger(behind the plastic panel at the back of the freezer section) showed there was some kind of heater element clipped along the bottom with feed wires at either side. Obviousely part of the automatic de icing systems. It’s a bit tricky but there an electrical connector plug at the top and disconnecting this enables you to unclip the element and remove it (except that in this case one wire had been trapped at the wrong side of the coolant pipes when they had been fitted so it had to be snipped to get it out). Once out a circuit test showed there was no circuit through the element. So cutting into the two shrouded connections at each end of the element revealed some little components inside which I now know are “Thermal fuses”. One of these had “Blown”. There was a number on the side: - DF 72S which Google revealed is a thermal fuse set at 72 degrees. Although these are listed as spares in all sorts of places non was convenient to the UK. So I found a similar component at Maplins Electronics (R14) set at 92 degrees for just 69p! The reasoning being that the other thermal DF 72S fuse was still ok and the slightly higher use temp at the other end would still blow before anything melted!
By the way you cannot solder these things in so its best to use miniature screwed “block” connectors plus a good covering with insulation tape.
After putting it all back together its now been working for a month and no ice build up… The green light did still flash for a while but went out once the temperature dropped too normal freezing level.

Total cost of replacement parts was under £1 but it took a bit of time find the problem.

Posted on May 12, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Fisher and Pykel Fridge / freezer Active Smart

on reading the user manuals, it suggests actually calling the F&P customer service numbers and telling them the pattern of the lights flashing.

They can ?diagnose the fault from the light sequence and can then tell you what u need to have fixed.

Posted on Jan 08, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel active smart fridge keeps

press the select button ( the button that you choose the temperature on the fridge and freezer) and check that the fan on both fridge and freezer are working.

Posted on Nov 07, 2009

rickead1
  • 1998 Answers

SOURCE: Problem with Fisher & Paykel

so both the freezer and the frigerator are both warm then? If this is the case then you can try to remove the rear panel down where the compressor is leave machine off for about ten minutes then plug the machine back in there isa small box like unit or relay on the side of the compressor if your hearing it click on and off or if you disconnect the wires going to it and shake it lightly to hear if something is rattleing on the inside also if you have a multimeter and a pair of needle nose you can do this to test the relay

Remove the cover on the compressor relay box. The cover is usually held in place by retaining clips or tension clips. There are usually three components inside this box: the compressor relay, the compressor motor terminals and the overload protector. The compressor relay is the largest component and will either be wirewound or solid state. If the part is solid state, then you will have to have a professional test the part, as it requires specific equipment for testing. If you have a wirewound relay, pull it straight off of the compressor.

  • 5

    Use a pair of needlenose pliers to pull the connector off of the relay's terminal. Be sure to pull it off by grasping the connector and NOT the wire. Check both the wire connector and the compressor relay for any signs of corrosion.

  • 6

    After you dust the relay off, take a good look at it. You should see two plug-type terminals marked "S" and "M" and the slip-on terminal marked "L." Set your multitester to read ohms (usually the X1 or RX1 setting). Set the relay on a flat surface so that the "S" and "M" terminals are on the bottom.

  • 7

    Insert one probe of your tester into the "S" terminal and one in the "M" terminal. Your tester should have a reading of "zero" ohms. Keeping the probes inserted in the terminals, turn the relay over. You should hear an audible "click" and the tester's reading should change from "zero" to "infinity."

  • 8

    Turn the relay back over. Now, touch one probe to the "S" terminal and the other probe to the "L" terminal. The tester should read "zero" ohms. Turn it over again with the probes still on the terminals and the tester should read "infinity."

  • 9

    Turn the relay back over. Now, touch one probe to the "M" terminal and the other to the "L" terminal. The tester should read "zero" ohms. Turn the relay over with the probes still in place and the tester's reading should not change -- it will remain at zero ohms.

  • 10

    If your compressor relay passes this series of tests, then your relay is not the problem with your refrigerator. If it fails any one of these tests, then take it to an appliance parts shop and purchase a replacement. Replace everything back in its original position and be sure to remove the 20-ohm resistor from the capacitor before plugging the refrigerator back in.

  • note if you are unable to perform these tests please call a technician if you have any further questions please message me back as well as please remember to rate how this opinion has helped in your appliance repair all in all if your machine is warm its either the relay or the compressor Thanks again

  • Rick

  • Posted on Dec 02, 2010

    • 1 Answer

    SOURCE: I have a Fisher and

    I had the same problem. The problem proved to be the defrosting element was faulty. The defrost is programmmed to activate every 12 hours or so, and if it does not happen the electronics detects any problem and sets the alarm. Replace the defrost element and everything is fine.

    Posted on Dec 04, 2010

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    Model E372b Fisher & Pykel - Beeps with Fridge Door closed periodically-Higest shelves warm lower down freezes things


    First I would like to say thanks for all the information on the Fisher-Paykel active smart fridge freezer problems. This was a lot more useful than their customer support help line… After a week of hanging on for ten minutes without any answer I had a look on the net and found your site with descriptions of similar problems so I decided to investigate further
    I have a Fisher Paykel fridge freezer (model 402B in the UK) about three years old. Although it didn’t seem to be as cold as normal, the first sign of a serious problem was when it started making a rattling or knocking noise from the freezer compartment. Looking inside it was obviously iced up solid and the noise was probably the fan catching the ice. So first thing I decided to try was a days de icing after which everything seemed ok except the green indicator light was now flashing about once every second.
    Two weeks later it was badly iced up again so the problem was still there. At first I suspected the fans (which I could never see actually working). I disconnected one and tried it with a 6v torch battery and it spun ok. It was then I realised what was happening - the fans cut out whenever the door is opened so they are always stopped if you look inside.
    A closer look at the aluminium heat exchanger(behind the plastic panel at the back of the freezer section) showed there was some kind of heater element clipped along the bottom with feed wires at either side. Obviousely part of the automatic de icing systems. It’s a bit tricky but there an electrical connector plug at the top and disconnecting this enables you to unclip the element and remove it (except that in this case one wire had been trapped at the wrong side of the coolant pipes when they had been fitted so it had to be snipped to get it out). Once out a circuit test showed there was no circuit through the element. So cutting into the two shrouded connections at each end of the element revealed some little components inside which I now know are “Thermal fuses”. One of these had “Blown”. There was a number on the side: - DF 72S which Google revealed is a thermal fuse set at 72 degrees. Although these are listed as spares in all sorts of places non was convenient to the UK. So I found a similar component at Maplins Electronics (R14) set at 92 degrees for just 69p! The reasoning being that the other thermal DF 72S fuse was still ok and the slightly higher use temp at the other end would still blow before anything melted!
    By the way you cannot solder these things in so its best to use miniature screwed “block” connectors plus a good covering with insulation tape.
    After putting it all back together its now been working for a month and no ice build up… The green light did still flash for a while but went out once the temperature dropped too normal freezing level.

    Total cost of replacement parts was under £1 but it took a bit of time find the problem.

    Jan 18, 2008 | Fisher and Paykel Active Smart® E522BR...

    1 Answer

    I have a Fisher and Pykel Fridge / freezer Active Smart


    on reading the user manuals, it suggests actually calling the F&P customer service numbers and telling them the pattern of the lights flashing.

    They can ?diagnose the fault from the light sequence and can then tell you what u need to have fixed.

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