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I have a Vermont Castings 360DVS2 natural gas fireplace that I?ve had in my house since it was built in 2003 that is controlled by a wall switch. I turn off the pilot light in the spring and re-light it in the fall. I never had a problem doing this until year when the pilot light won?t stay lit. I use following procedure to light the pilot: a) turn the gas control knob to ?Pilot? b) push in the knob and press the piezo igniter button to light the pilot light c) hold in the control knob for a minute after the pilot lights before releasing it. At this point, the pilot light stays lit (while the control knob is set to Pilot). However, when I turn the gas control knob to the ?On? position, the pilot light goes out. I replaced the thermocouple, but the problem still occurs. This is where I need some advice as to what I need to try next. Here is some additional information that should help the experts with the diagnosis: The fireplace has the Honeywell VS8420E 2308 gas valve. The pilot flame seems to sufficiently encompass both the thermocouple and thermopile when the gas control valve is at the ?Pilot? setting. I performed the following Millivolt and System Checks with the results shown below. Test A) Complete system test across the TP and TH terminals ==> Result: 230mv when wall switch is closed, 0mv when wall switch open Test B) Thermopile Output test across the TH/TP and TP terminals ==> Result: 288mv when wall switch is closed, 515mv when wall switch open Test C) System resistance test across the TP and TH terminals ==> Result: 135 ohms when wall switch is closed Thanks to all that can help me with my problem.

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  • rickhens Nov 07, 2010


    Thanks for the follow up. After I received your response, I started looking for a new Honeywell valve. While doing so, I came across another post with this same problem. The solution was to turn the gas control valve very slowly from the “Pilot” position to the “On” position. When I tried this, the pilot stayed lit. Therefore I will not have to order a new valve. I did learn that this particular Honeywell valve has been discontinued. Therefore, I’m going to keep my eye out for one on eBay and buy one so that I’ll have it on hand if the valve stops working down the road. Again, thanks for taking the time to reply.



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I had a similar problem, here's how I fixed it.
1. Shut off gas.
2. Use 7/16 wrench and unscrew pilot gas line from BOTTOM (beneath the unit). Pull it down so you can see top.
3. Turn gas back on and push in pilot button.. does gas come out? If so, then you're pilot is plugged with dust or spider eggs or something. Continue steps below.. if not, then probably valve problem, get a new valve.
4. Shut off gas.
5. Remove logs. and the rear left support plate to access pilot unit screws
6. Take out pilot unit screws so you can access the pilot stack with your 7/16 wrench.
7. Remove the pilot stack.
8. Clean all passage ways. Blow out pilot stack, use a toothpick or paperclip to make sure it is all cleaned out... Make sure the thru hole down below is cleared, and clean and blow out the little cylindrical flow adapter piece.
9. Put it all back together.. Put adapter into place, screw down pilot stack, screw back in pilot unit, screw back in rear support, put logs back into place, push gas line back up into pilot, tighten pilot gas line back into bottom, put glass back on.
10. Light pilot as usual and it might work now.

Posted on Jan 08, 2015

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I had a similar problem when turning gas control knob to ON. Mine was a vent free gas log set which uses an ODS (oxygen depletion sensor) style pilot which if the pilot does not have strong enough signal it will short the power from the thermopile which closes pilot and main gas valves.
The solution was to blow puffs of air to clean dust from the tip of the pilot and especially the small air hole on the pilot tube near the tip of the pilot. I used a rubber hand bulb with pointed tip to blow the puffs of air. The T/C voltage doubled from 18 to 40mV and the main flame lit right off when gas control valve was tuned ON.

Posted on Dec 23, 2014

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From what you are showing and saying I would say that you have a bad gas valve... Your test B is the most telling in that it pulls the MV's down when you close the wall switch, but the gas valve does not open...this tells me that it is trying but the valve is not opening...

Now... the next problem will be to find that valve... from doing a very quick search, I believe that it is an OEM valve and probably will only be available from the manufacturer or a dealer...

So I would contact your dealer or Vermont castings and try to secure a new gas valve.

If it were a thermocouple problem the pilot would not stay lit...

One other test would be to bypass the wall switch and jumper the gas valve directly to make sure the wall switch is not the problem...


Posted on Nov 07, 2010

  • D. Floyd Kolb
    D. Floyd Kolb Nov 07, 2010

    Wow that is weird.....but I'm glad you shared it with me.... you can never have too many tricks in your bag.... :-)

    Glad your going and that you found that....

    But yes, I would try to find a new valve as it seems as though there is an issue with it for it to be so finicky....



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SOURCE: cozy wall furnace model w255d

Ensure the end of the thermopile is in direct flame, any lower or higher it will not allow the pilot to stay on..

Posted on Dec 04, 2008

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