I am trying to replace a 1 toggle switch along with a receptacle with a 2 toggle switch. The present toggle switch controls an outside light. I am planning to put a small hard waired light on the inside from the bottom toggle. The hot (black) wire along 1 white wire come into the box in the lower right corner and the black and white wire from light come in the upper left corner. I attempted to put both black wires on the side of switch on the same screw and both white wires on the other side on the same screw. With power on and switch in the "off" position, the outside light is on and then putting it in the "on" position, it blews a fuse?

The way I was wired, the power is running from your device to the switch (called backfed) the ground is self explanatory and the other wire is your switch leg that will be energized when you flip the switch. With the general info out of the way, I'm not quite sure what you're trying to do or what you mean by a toggle. Could you please be a little more specific about what you're trying to do? I might be able to help you a little better that way!

Receptacle needs 1 Hot wire and 1 Neutral wire to complete circuit.
It sounds like you have 1 Hot wire and 1 Load wire but no Neutral wire.

Neutrals are not always present in switch box.
As a general rule, if a switch box has Neutral wires, they are twisted together and covered with wire nut, and then pushed to back of box.

Every receptacle box has Hot and Neutral wire. Hot connects to brass screw, and Neutral connects to silver screw. The two wires together complete circuit when you plug in a lamp.

So each receptacle box has Neutral wires, and you can get a Neutral wire from receptacle box and bring it over to the switch box. This work takes every tool and probably touch-up paint.

Here is a link showing how to drop a wire down to your switch box:
You have to tear out old switch box, and then install 'old work box.'
Old switch box is nailed into 2x4s. Pry box out a bit, then reach in with hacksaw blade and cut nails.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Install-owb.html

Here are two more links that show basic 240V and 120V circuits:
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

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You are replacing old switch-receptacle device.
New device also has switch and receptacle.
You want switch to control light, but not receptacle.
You want receptacle 'hot' all the time.

You have 2 cables that enter box.
Each cable has white, black and ground wires.
Ground wires are twisted together and attached to green ground screws and not discussed more.

Screws on new device:
Side 1 of device: New device has dark screw(s) or brass screws on one side ... these screws are connected together by brass plate. This side is the Hot side of device.

Side 2 of device: Other side has 2 separate and unconnected screws. These screws are not connected in any way. Each of the 2 disconnected screws sits opposite the switch and opposite the plug.

Cables.
One cable comes from breaker box. This cable has a Hot and Neutral wire. The Hot is black. Neutral is white.
The other cable goes to Load (light). Black supplies power to Load (light), and white connects to Neutral.
If you are uncertain which is which, testing is shown below.

Connect the device:
Side 1 of device: Black Hot goes to dark colored screw(s) that are connected by brass plate. (This is only wire connected to this side of device)
Side 2 of device: Black that goes to Load (light) connects to screw that sits opposite the switch.
Side 2 of device: White Neutral connects to screw that sits opposite the plug

One wire is left .. the white from light. This white wire connects to white Neutral wire. Since white neutral is already connected to device, look on back of device to see if there is a quick-connect hole for you to shove wire into back of device. If device doesn't have quick-connect, then twist white wires together, and add a short jumper wire to device, and then all the whites are connected to neutral. Circuit is complete.

How to test for Hot and Neutral
Separate wires.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground.
Tester lights up on hot wire.
Now test hot wire to other wires.
Tester lights up on neutral

It sounds like the outside light may have been wired differently from what you may have thought.

You may need Sparkie to come and comb it through for you. You did not mention what happened to the other switched curcuit that you eliminated.

Lights wire in one of several ways, and the most common run power to the light and then on to the switch. in this configuration, the white neutral wire should be taped black, as it carries hot power during use. This wiring configuration may not allow you to have a power plug as you describe, as there may not be full time power in the switch box.

the other most common is power comes to the switch and then on to the light. this is much less commonly used.

What are you doing? I can't figure it out.
I think you have a new double rocker switch and you are trying to replace a double toggle switch and you don't know which side to put your wires?
The screws are color coded. Look at the screw colors on old and new switches and follow same pattern.

If this is incorrect, answer back and I will help.

If you are adding another circuit.
That means running a new wire into the box to power another receptacle box, or to switch another light fixture.
If this is the case, the best place to connect any new circuit is the existing receptacle.
Connect new black wire to brass colored screw
Connect new white wire to silver colored screw.

recheck the wiring in receptacle loose wire --broken wire / connection or improper wiring

I don't exactly understand your question, but to control that light using a switch you have to have two sets of cable one coming into your switch box and one going out of it. Tie your two whites together and the two black wires go on your switch, whereas on a receptacle black and white wires go on the terminals.

I can probably help you, but I need more info. Are you replacing a single switch that operated both of these lights together? Do you have 3 black wires and three white wires in the box now? Are the 3 white wires all connected together? Were 2 of the black wires connected to one terminal of the old switch, and 1 black wire connected to another terminal of the switch? ----- I'm doing lots of guessing here so that you understand the kind of info I need.

You cannot replace the switch with a switch/receptacle combo because there is no neutral wire. The black and white that you see are both used as hot wires. One is the Line and the other is the Load.

You have to install another 2 wire cable or replace the existing with a 3-wire cable. A 3-wire cable has a black, red, and white, plus the bare ground wire

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